A Winter Water Wake for WaterFowl.. Keeping Water Moving and Mixing to Prevent Freezing.
As we Traveled about Visiting Swan Ponds, we had a Chance to Observe what Other Swan Folks in our General Area were doing to Care for their Swans. (Good Memories)
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Year after Year… We Visited through All the Seasons. Pastoral Summer Days Turned to Frosty Fall Mornings to Frigid Winter Nights.
There was One Place that Kept the Shallow End of their Pond Open during the Winter with a Bubble Hose. ….It Worked Well.
The Images Range from 2009-2018.
When the Large Bird Bath Froze it was Time to Turn the Bubble Hose ON !
A Compressor Unit with Various Hoses WORKED ! The Compressor Unit is Sheltered in the Gazebo – Up Under a Table.
The Compressor MUST have GOOD Air Flow.. Do NOT ENCLOSE !
This is a Garden Hose Connected to the Compressor.
Here there is a Length of Vinyl Tubing in Shallow Water.
We were Impressed at HOW WELL this Works for this Pond.
BUBBLE HOSE… for DeICING a Shallow Water Area..
Do a Search for >>> Weighted Pond Bubble Hose
I was Surprised at the Number of Companies and Help that is Available.
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In Late April of 2008.. We Arranged a Private Property Sanctuary Home for “Handsome Fellow.” We had Rescued him in July 2007.
We had Care for him in Several Places during his LONG Months of Recovery.. “Handsome” had his Entire Left Wing Removed to Save his Life.
Thank YOU to ALL… Who Helped us with this BIG Project.. …One Day at a Time.
It was Time for a Real Pond. And No More Vet Visits.
“Handsome” was Finally Swimming Freely on a Large Pond.. but Alone.
We “Adopted” a Young Female at a LiveStock Auction.. Scared Little Thing.
“Handsome” Immediately Took Care of Little “Hannah.” We Learned SOOooo Much from this Introduction.
Spring turned to Summer.. We were Thrilled with our Arrangement.
This Private Pond was a Wonderful Place 10 Minutes from our Home.
We Visited with the Swans almost Every Day. They were Thriving.
Trust had Developed.
The Summer Days passed TOO Quickly.
The Lush Summer Green will Soon Turn to Gold.. and Leaves will Fall.
The Swans would often Come to Greet us. Of Course we were the Lunch Wagon. (With Treats)
Various Trees were Turning Colors.. Warning of the Change of Season..
We knew little about what to Expect in the Coming Winter Months
In Early November we had an Air-O-Lator Aerator/DeIcing Unit Installed.
We were Preparing for our First Winter with Swans on this Pond.
Being a Data Nerd, I Placed a High-Low Thermometer in the Electric Panel Box. I Hoped to Predict when we Needed to Turn the Air-O-Lator on.
After Chilly November Nights Various Areas of the Pond would have some Ice.
Watching “Hannah” – She was Very Annoyed with the Ice..
Several Nights we Turned the Air-O-Lator ON – Just in Case..
The Ice would Form in Different Places Depending on the Breezes.
The Golf Course Grounds were a Beautiful Place to go on Snowy Days..
We were So LUCKY to have the Privilege of Spending Time here.
We were Learning More about the Tolerance Swans have for Cold Weather.
Both Swans were OK.. No Shivering.. Well Fed they were at Home OutSide.
It was Interesting to Observed the Freezing Process of the Pond.
The Shallow End of the Pond had Surface Ice many Mornings.
The Late Fall Sun was Getting Lower – Less SunLight to Warm the Water.
During the Month of November the Pond was Always Partially Free of Ice.
Dealing with Ice is not Instinctual for Swans. In True Wild Swan Populations, the Parents will Teach their Young or take them to Warmer Areas.. Migrate.
The Local Forecast did not Suggest the Pond would Freeze OverNight.. A SURPRISE to us ALL.. ! !
We did not have the Air-O-lator Unit Turned ON.. UGH !!!
We Turned the Air-O-Lator on ASAP ! ! Within Minutes it was Thawing the Ice.
There was a Thin Skim of Ice Covering the Entire Pond..
NOW we NEEDED to FIND the SWANs.. I amTrying to Control a Feeling of Panic.
It was the First Winter for Both Swans on this Large Irrigation Pond.
They are OK !!! They were in a Small Channel of Open Water.
“Handsome” (? 10 Years Old) was Staying with Little “Hannah” ( 17 Months Old) and Keeping her Safe.
OH MY ! .. How will we get them back to the Open Water..
In a Short Time the Sun Melted the Ice at the Upper End of the Pond. YEAH !
We Decided to “Baiting” the Swans with Greens.. They are Hungry.
Rob used a Large Branch shaped like a Hockey Stick to Break a Channel along the Opposite Bank.
Little “Hannah” wanted the Lettuce and the Swans Swam over to me.
I Sprinkled Lettuce in the Broken Channel.. They Started to Munch.
“Hannah” was very Nervous with all the ICE Creeping over their Pond.
A BIG Relief..
BIG Learning Curve that Winter.. ONLY Happened that One Night.
The Days of December were Mixed with Icy and Open Water Zones.
Each Time we have Moved our Swans to a New Pond, they Needed to Learn about the Icing on their New Home Pond. The First Year is the Trickiest for Both the Swans and their CareTakers..
Each Day the Changing Icy Patterns were Beautiful.. We Enjoy this Time.
One Night they Braved Walking over the Thin Ice.. Successfully.
This Little Story of a “Freeze Out” was a Learning Experience for Us. The Swans Quickly Learned.. After this Day they Stayed in the Open Water and Spent Time on the Entire Pond on the Days the Ice would Thaw. Compiled March 2021 ..(c) Linda M.Sweger
For Year-Round Pond Health.. The Circulation of the Lower Pond Water will help prevent Deadly Anaerobic Bacteria Growth in the Lower Areas of a Pond.
Organic Material does Break Down Completely in Stagnant Deeper Areas of a Pond… This Muck can become a Toxic Zone.
Organic Break-Down.. will Release Methane Gas.. which you might see as Bubbles in ICE ! ! ! IT LOOKs Cool.. Circulating the Water Levels will Aid Clearing the Decaying Material from the Water.
During the Summer Time Excess Organic Materials will Promote the Growth of Several Unwanted Pond Plants. Algae Blooms, DuckWeed..etc.
Unwanted Pond Plants like DuckWeed may over grow the Surface.
This can Creates an Unhealthy Condition in a Pond.
Reducing the Oxygen Value in the Lower Zones of a Pond.
The Air-O-Lator used Year-Round will improve the Pond’s General Health. Just an Hour or so Each Day or Night.. will Improve the Water Quality.
Since the Air-O-Lator Unit can be Raised to use as a Spray Fountain… this is a Nice Visual Addition for the Warmer Months.
Spray Fountains are Lovely Features in many Public Park Ponds and Lakes.
BUT I have Learned Over Time and Doing some Reading.. that the SPRAY Fountains have been Responsible for Dispersing Legionellae Organisms in the Fine Mist of these Fountains..
Breathing in the Fountain Mist can Expose People and Animals to this Deadly Pneumonia when the Water Temperature is Over 70 Degrees.
This Possibility is being Considered UnSafe for Ponds in Senior Living Facilities..
During the Winter the Water Mist will Coat the Swans Feathers and they may have a Layer of Ice Stick to them …
There is a Constant Cool Mist in the Air near a Fountain Spray.
If you need to use Extension Cords – Run them through PVC Conduit. Be SURE your Cords are Safe for OutDoor Use.
> > > DO NOT PLACE PLUG CONNECTIONS IN THE WATER ! ! < < < <
NO Rope Loops.. Swans LOVE to Pull at Cables and Ropes. Our Swans would Pick and Chew at Ropes, Cords, Electric Cables, etc.
Often we did not See them.. But, when we did there was Little we could do to Stop them..
The BIGGEST Problem.. The Swans..
Our Little Female was Proud of herself when she Picked at the Ropes that Held the Float to its Anchor Blocks and Set it FREE..!! It Twisted Around, Tangling the Propeller with One of the Other Rope Supports.
On that Very Cold February Day, a Very Nice Person Got the Boat out and was Able to Get the DeIcer Put Back Together..
We had No Way to know if there was Damage to the Propeller.. Just Grateful It was Working..!!!
From Reading.. I had suggested Protecting the Electric Cord with PVC Vinyl Conduit..
The PVC Vinyl Conduit Averages $1.50+ for 10 Feet.. The Air-O-Lators Cable was 100 Feet Long – PVC Conduit would be less then $20.00. (including Tax) The Electric Cable Averages over $ 2.00/Foot to Replace ( 100 Feet = $200.00).
Fish and Turtles seem to Enjoy the Taste of Electrical Cables.
If you want to leave the Unit in Your Pond for the Year Round Circulation Benefit and DeIcing… putting the Cable through PVC Electrical Conduit will Save Costly Cable Replacement/Repairs.
Fish and Turtles are not Very Active during the Colder Months. During Warmer Weather.. they will Chew on Electric Cords.
This School of Japanese koi: Koi, a member of the Carp Family, like to Hide in the Tangle of Twigs under the Willow Tree.
The PROPELLER GUARD also Helps Prevent Leaves, Twigs, Paper and Plastic Bags from getting Twisted into the Fan.
We did have One Event of a White Plastic Grocery Bag becoming Sucked onto the Unit.. Which Prevented Water from Circulating. The Propeller Guard kept the Bag from Tangling the Propeller.. but, Wrapped Around the Guard the Bag Prevented Water Movement.
Again, the Boat was Put into the Frigid Pond.
We had been using Bright Yellow Nylon Rope that Floats to Tie the Float to the Anchor Blocks.
But, the Swans kept Chewing at the Rope and over time they Chewed Away enough Rope Setting the Unit Loose, etc. MORE then Once.
If you Decide to use Ropes to Connect the Unit to the Floatation, * Prevent the Swans from getting Tangled in any Rope Loops.. ***ELIMINATE the Loops in your Ties to the Air-O-Lator Fan Motor.
In Late November the Swans were Starting to Court.. Lovely to Watch.
We were Ready for Winter. We Hoped !
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A Sad Event: One of the Ponds in Lancaster Co. using a Fountain for Circulation, Lost a Young Female in Late Summer during a Period of Drought.
The Ropes that keep their Fountain in place became Slack as the Pond Water Level went Down.
They found their Female with a Support Rope around her Neck.. These Folks have had Swans for over 20 years.. Their Pond was the Lowest it had ever been. Never thought the Anchor Ropes might be a Concern.
In the Summer and Fall of 2010 we had Three Young Rescues..
We Found a Home for them on a Horse Pasture Pond..
We went to Visit the Young Swans as Often a we Could. Such a JOY !
As the Summer Days WARMED the Pond – DuckWeed Grew Quickly. Areas of the Horse Pastures were Draining Animal Waste into the Pond.
DuckWeed is a Healthy Plant for the Swans to Eat.. But they could not Eat Enough to Control the Rapid Growth..
I had the Air-O-Later from the Golf Course Pond Refurbished. The 100 Feet of Cable had to be Replaced.. Turtles and Fish had CHEWED the Coating Off in 5 – 6 Places.. I had ASKED for the Cable to be in Conduit.. It was not Done.. I was Told it would not be Needed.. > > > IT WAS NEEDED !
We were all New to having Electrical Equipment in a Pond. This was a Learning Experience.. A Costly One.
The Horse Pasture Farm Worker Installed the Electric to the Pond Area and Put the Air-O-Lator into the Horse Pasture Pond. Nice Job
The Electric Cable to the Unit was IN Conduit.. YEAH ! We were not there to Observe.. OH MY, ROPE LOOPs Every Where..
Summer soon became Fall and we were Preparing for the Colder Months.
Our Young Swans were Doing Well.. They Learned about the Ice.
The First Winter the Air-O-Lator Unit Worked Well…
The Air-O-Lator was Allowed to Run through the Spring and Summer.
The Circulation Benefit was Impressive.. Most of the DuckWeed was Gone.
This Meant the Organic Materials were Breaking Down and Flowing Out of the Pond as Spring Rains Flushed the Pond.
Summer Visits were Fun. Watching them Grow and Bond into a Threesome.
In October the Air-O-Later was Working Properly. Ready for Colder Times.
The First Half of their Second Winter Months Everything was Working Well.
The Swans Chewed and Chewed.. Over and Over Detaching the Fan/Propeller Unit from the Float.
This Winter we could not get to the Air-O-Lator when it Stopped Working. It was Not Safe for Anyone to Service the Unit…
There was NO Safe Way to take the Unit out for Repair. I was a Nervous Wreck until the Spring Thaw..
There was a VERY Small Area where the Natural Springs Entered the Pond. The Swans had this Small Shallow Area for Weeks..
The Unit had Water that Leaked into the Motor.. It was Repaired.. and ReInstalled..
It Took the Swans Several Months Picking and Pulling at the Ropes.
It is Just a Matter of Time.. So, the Ropes were Replaced… Again & Again.
The Swans would NOT Stop Chewing the Ropes..
This Time the Motor Unit was Hung from Bent ReBar … see Photos.
The Float was still Attached to the Cinder Block Anchors by Ropes. Now the Ropes were Knotted, with VERY Tight Knots DOWN Through the Corner Holes of the Float.. NO Extra Rope to Chew Away…
Later Stainless Chain was used to Prevent the Swans from Picking the Support Ropes Apart… Silly Birds. >>>This did Resolve the Problem.
Having a Timer to Control the ON/OFF will Save Electricity. It is a Fan/Motor – there is NO COSTLY Heat.
Turning it ON during the Colder Night Hours is usually Sufficient.
No Noisy Compressor. >>>> It uses an Electric Cable in the Water.
We Used the Same Air-O-Later from November 2008 – July 2015.. FOUR Times during Winter Months it STOPPED Working.
Once a Plastic Bag became Tangled in the Fan… early 2009. SEVERAL TIMEs the Swans Chewed the Ropes until the Floatation Twisted around its Support Ropes. Once the Motor Housing Leaked and Water Stopped Everything.
It is NO FUN Trying to Service this Unit during Bitter Cold Days when we Needed it the MOST.. When It is not SAFE to go out on the Ice.
Our Unit was Repaired Twice.. Cable Replaced Once.. First Installed – November 2008.. to March 2009. Repaired and Moved August 2010 – January 2013 FAILED.. Repaired March 2013 and Put Back in Pond to August 2015.
This Unit was Working when we Moved our Swans to a New Home.. The Horse Pasture Farm was Sold.. We were VERY Lucky to Find a Lovely New Pond with Caring Folks.. Now Good Swan Friends.
OverAll.. It was Not the Air-O-Lator.. it was Our Swans that Caused Most of the Failures.. The Twisting and Tangling the Motor/Propeller with the Support Ropes could have Damaged the Housing Causing the Leak..
When our Air-O-Lator was Working it was Great.
We did not Purchase this Type of DeIcing Equipment Again. We Needed to Consider Equipment that was Safe for our Swans, And Safe FROM our Swans.
“Hannah” Loved to Pull at Rob’s Boot Laces until they were Untied. Silly Swan.
The Fine Serrations Lining their Beak makes Picking & Pulling Rope Easy.
Look Closely at the “Country Water Lily Pond’s Float.. it has Chains – No Ropes.
As we Traveled about Visiting Swan Ponds.. This Type of Circulating – DeIcing Equipment is Common..
This Large Rural Pond below has Two Air-O-Lator Units.. (small dark – – s) The Under Water Critters Damaged the Electric Cords.. SHORT-OUT !
Now the Pond Surface is Covered with Tiny WaterMeal.
Many seemed to Work without the Problems we Experienced.
One Pond Owner tried to Use this System in a Shallow Pond.. Maybe 18-24 Inches Deep.. it could not be Adapted. It Never Worked.. was more Dangerous to Anyone Near it.. It Just Spit Muddy Water into the Air.
This Area of the Pond is Shallow – The Swans can Stand-up in the Water.
It is VERY Important to Select the Circulating – DeIcing Equipment Best Suited to Your Water Environment.
Fountains are Lovely to See.. Striking Water Features.. Swans Complete the Picture.
We Loved Spending Time with Swans and the Places where they Live.
Many Wonderful Memories.
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Compiled from our Experience with an Air-O-Lator. From 2008 – 2015 (c) Linda M. Sweger March 2021
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When Your Swans are Safe on their Water Environment during the Winter Months.. You will have more Time to Just Enjoy the Season with Them..
February 5th, 2021 | Posted by LadyNerkle1 in Keeping a "Winter Wake" for Swans - (Comments Off on CREATE A WINTER WAKE FOR YOUR SWANs.)
Winter Water Wake.. Keeping Water Moving and Mixing to Prevent Freezing.
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For Folks New to Swan Care.. Where you Live will be a BIG Factor for this Topic.
Every Water Environment is Unique.. The Time to Plan is Late Summer – Early Fall..
When Caring for Swans or other Domestic Waterfowl… There are TWO HIGH Priority.. Tips/Rules.. For Winter Care, >>>>>> Open Water and Plenty of Healthy Food.
Open Liquid Water Keeps the Healthy Waterfowl Warm.. and Safer.. Food is Energy to keep them Warm.
IF you are in a Climate with Mild Winters.. and Water Environments that do not Freeze.. Great !
In any Area where Winters are Mild and the WaterWays only Freeze Occasionally for a Few Nights/Days.. It is Good to be Aware and be Prepared..
For those of us who Live in Northern States, we have Four Seasons.. From Cool Rainy Springs to HOT Dry Summers, Time to Prepare Autumn-Fall into Freezing Winters.
Healthy Swans do Very Well as long as they can keep their Feet in Liquid Water.
Healthy Swans Fare Well OutSide During the WINTER.
Swans will try to find the Warmest Water in their Pond.. even a Degree or Two Warmer.
Some Lucky Water Environments have Large Open Water Areas ALL Winter due to Active UnderGround Springs.
The UnderGround Springs may be 50 – 52 Degrees as they Flow into the Pond or Lake Water.
It is “Swanderful” to have a Water Environment that is Totally Ice Free !
The Surface of the Average Fresh Water Pond/Lake Freezes at 32 Degrees Fahrenheit. The Depth of a Pond will also Determine when the Surface Water will Freeze.. For a While the Lower Warmer Water will Rise and Mix.
The Deeper the Water.. the Slower the Freeze..
We Mounted a Minimum – Maximum Thermometer on the Shady Side of a Post Near the Pond. The Pond Average Air Temperature is Different from the Local Official Weather Forecast Station.. Knowing the Air Temperature is Important.
Where there is Brackish Water.. It DOES Freeze.. Ocean Water Freezes just like Freshwater, but at Lower Temperatures. Sea Water Freezes at about 28.4 degrees Fahrenheit because of the Salt in it.
When Sea Water Freezes the Ice contains very little Salt because only the Water Part Freezes.
Salt Ice: It is generally Weaker http://lakeice.squarespace.com/ It Weakens more Quickly when Thawing. It Thaws at Lower Temperatures.
If Swans or Cygnets are “Frozen Out” of their Water then they are subject to the Air Temperature and if it is Cold enough, they may Freeze.
I DO Know of Swans that Froze to Death.. VERY Sad Stories.
Captive WaterFowl are Helpless when Ponds/Lakes are Completely Frozen.
The Image Below is of a Minnesota Trumpeter Swan that Suffered Painful FrostBite. A Swan’s Feet are SOooo Important to their Survival in the Wild.
The Photo Image below… is a Muscovy Duck whose Feet Suffered FrostBite. Lots of Care did not Save this Duck.. Parts of its Feet kept Dying.. You can See the Left Leg is Black. Eventually the Duck Died.
The Bitter Cold Spells during January-February have Often taken Tolls.. Sad Swan News is more Frequent. Predators have been the Main Reason. When Ponds Freeze, it Forces Swans into Unsafe Areas.
Most Swans are Killed when NOT in their Water..
It is a Good Idea to have Equipment Ready for DeIcing.
A Stable Boat and EXTRA People to Help.
Installing Circulation-DeIcing Systems is a Summer – Fall Project..
SomeOne will be OUT in the Water.. to Place the Units. A STABLE Boat is Needed for Most Installations.
Working in a Water Environment that is ALL OPEN is Helpful..
Dealing with Ice is not Instinctual for Swans. In True Wild Swan Populations, Tundra & Trumpeters, the Parents will Teach their Cygnets about Ice or take them to Warmer Areas.. Migrate.
Mute Swans are NOT Migratory Swans.. They will Move about Seeking OPEN Water..
Each Time we have Moved our Swans to a New Pond, they needed to Learn about the Icing on their New Home Pond.
The First Year is the Trickiest for both the Swans and their CareTakers.. Swans will Learn..
Swans are Safest in an Area of the Pond or Lake at least 4 Feet Deep.. Shallow Water is Less Safe..
The Depth is more important then the Diameter of the Opening in any Ice. Most Predators can not get to the Swans if they are Floating Over 4 Feet of Water.
A Diameter of 25 Feet or More is Ideal.
** You DO NOT Want Predators to Reach your Swans.
Always Check at SunSet and SunRise that the Swans are IN Liquid Water.
I DO UNDERSTAND about WINTER WORRY.. I know in my Logical Brain that Healthy Waterfowl will be Fine in Open Water with Adequate Food Support.
I DO Understand the Feeling of WANTING to Help and Protect the Swans from the Elements.. Been There !
I can not tell you how Many Nights I have barely Slept.. I am Under a Warm Electric Blanket..Safe inside.
While Outside the Wind and Snow is Whirling.. and our Swans are Outside in Frigid Winter Weather.
Many Times, I was UP before Dawn, before Coffee, Dressed like I am going to the North Pole.. and OFF to the River or Pond to Check on our Swans..
They were ALWAYs Fine.. Happy to Greet me for some Morning Treats.. Standing at First Morning Light in Ankle-High Snow Shivering….
..and Watched the Swans Playing-Bathing in the Icy Cold Water. Relieved I would Trudge back Home for COFFEE..
After Loving Swans for 17 Years (2004-2021).. I Still have to Tell MYSELF they will be OK.. They are Healthy and Well Fed.. They will be Fine. (Sigh..) and then Try to Sleep..
Working with and Visiting Swans, we have seen many, many Swans on their Ponds with Ice and Snow all around.
They are Swimming, Playing, Bathing in the Icy Water.. They are SO Well Insulated.. It is Amazing.
Our Adult Swans have been out Full Time – Year Round.. They will be 12 Years Old in the Spring-Summer of 2021..
You Worry because you Care for them.. That is Good..Normal.. The Best Gauge I have Found is >>> How are the Ducks and Geese Doing ?
If Small Ducks and Medium Size Geese are Doing OK on your Winter Lake or Pond.. then Healthy Swans should do OK..
Just Remember there are NO 100% Rules.. when Caring for Swans.
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To KEEP an Area of Water Open-Liquid. – A “Winter Wake.”
YOU DO NOT WANT Equipment that uses HEAT.
It is NOT Practical to use Heating Element Equipment in a Pond or Lake. These are for the Decorative Landscape Ponds or Animal Water Container.
YOU WANT Circulation.. Moving and Mixing Water.
Most Pond/Lake Systems will need Electric Service.. There are Solar & Winds Mill Units..I have no Experience with these..
Be SURE you have SAFE Electrical Service.. GFCI We had Licensed Electricians Install ours.. NOT a DIY Project for Me..
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& Where to Start your Research.. READ LOTs of INFO..
Every Water Environment is Different.. Do what you can to Learn about the Area of your Pond or Lake that you want to Keep OPEN Water. – Especially the Depth..
There are Many Companies with All Kind of New Products.. There is LOTs to Learn.. All Useful Info.
For Most DeIcing Systems.. Generally, the Lower your DeIcing Equipment the Larger the Water Surface Opening will be.
Circulating Equipment will have the Added Benefit of Improving the Year-Round Health of most Ponds..
Organic Pond Plants like DuckWeed and Algae may Over Grow the Surface, Reducing the Oxygen Values in the Pond..
The SAME Horse Pasture POND 12 Months Later.. CLEAR SURFACE…!!!
Organic Material Breaks Down in Stagnant Deeper Areas of a Pond… Over Time this can Smell Nasty.. Is Unhealthy for Fish..
This Creates an Unhealthy Condition in a Pond.
Circulation of the Lower Pond Water will Help Prevent Anaerobic Bacteria Growth in the Lower Levels of Ponds, Improving the Dissolved Oxygen through the Water Layers.
Your Pond Fish will be Healthier.. You will Reduce Fish Kills.
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There are Various Methods of Deicing Winter Ponds/Lakes. None are Appropriate for All Water Environments..
We have used a Variety of Equipment in Different Ponds.. I have Organizing our Experiences .. These Topic Pages are Listed.
CREATING a “Winter Wake” for Swans
OOPs MOTHER NATURE SURPRISED US.
Air-O-Lator Fountain-Aerator
Winter Wake by SubSurface Diffusers
Submersible Pump for Open Water in Winter
Shallow Water Circulating Aerators
DeICING a Shallow Water Area with Bubble Hose
DeIcing with a SUMP PUMP
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There are 4 Basic Types.. Every Pond Situation is Different. These ALL Require having Electric Service Available.
IF THERE is Electric Available by the Pond – Lake.
Threading Any Electric Cable through PVC Conduit for Added Safety.
An Example: I Spoke with a Lady who Rented a Ditch-Witch Trencher, Buried the Electric Cable from the House to the Pond.. Installed the New Aeration Equipment.. It Worked for about a Week.. THEN STOPPED !! Some Critters had Dug Down to the Cable and had a Shocking Good Time.
Loose Electrical Cables and Extensions are TANGLE HAZARDs.
Electric Cables are Vulnerable to Rodents, Fish & Turtles Chewing on them.. >>Short-OUT !! – Possible Electric Leakage into the Water.
Having a Timer to Run the Units just at Night.. Helps with Electric Cost. Or Turn these On-OFF as Needed.. Being Ready is what is Important..
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# 1 Fountains – Aerators Some Convert to DeIcers.
There will be a Support Structure on the Surface. * Electric Cable in the Water -Aver. 100 Feet Cable. These have a Motor with FAN-Propeller.. Should be DOWN at Least 5 Feet..
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# 2 Bubble Diffusers.. Compressor and Weighted Air Hose. There is NO Support Structure on the Surface. * NO Electric Cable in the Water. for Deeper Waters 6-8 Plus Feet
We Installed a Bubble Diffuser System in One Pond.. It is a RELIEF not to have an Electric Cable in the Water. AND there is NOTHING on the Surface of the Water.. Nice..
I am NOT Crazy having the Compressors – They Hum..Vibrate. But, I Decided this is Safer then having Electric Cords in the Water..
Try to keep any Compressor away from your Home.. Noisy – HUM.. The New Compressors are Quieter.. Having a Timer.. Allows for the Compressors to Run Only at Night.
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# 3 Submersible Pumps.. and/or Sump Pump. * Electric Cable in Water – Limited Cable Length. Works Best if Down at least 3-5 Feet.. IN LARGE BUCKET. Works Well in Area of the Pond without a lot of Leaves and Field Drainage Debris.
This Submersible Pump Set-Up did Keep a Nice Area Ice Free.
Can be Useful Until you have a Chance to REALLY Evaluate Where you would want a more Permanent System.. In Mild Climates – For a “Just in Case” it Might Freeze this Winter..
Maybe you just need to keep your Feeding Area Open… Over All this is a Less Expensive Set-Up. It is a Good Idea to have an Extra Back-up Pump Ready to Swap-Out if the Pump in Use Fails… Especially when the Weather is Nasty.
NOTE: Winter 2015-2016: The Pumps that Draw Water in and Discharge have a VERY Common Problem. They PULL Leaves, Pine Needles, Twigs, Junk, etc… Toward the Unit.. Clogging them.
If your Pond has a lot of Debris.. these are a Pain.. ! If your Pond is Fairly Clean.. then these are Workable.
The Pond Below was Using a Sump Pump.. It Seemed to Work Well…
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#4 Bubble Hose Diffusers.. for Shallow Waters 2-4 Feet.. Compressor and Weighted Air Hose in the Water. * NO Electric Cable in the Water
Bubble Hose can be Useful if you Need to Keep a Feeding Station Area Open.
Bubble Hose or a Garden Hose is attached to a Compressor. These NEED to be Open to the AIR.. and Protected from the Weather. This One is in a Gazebo and Up Under a Table..
Protecting ANY Electric Cables in Conduit…is Helpful.. Conduit is Cheap. Replacing Damaged Electric Cable is Expensive.
Most Water Circulating Equipment DEPENDS on Electricity.
If you have a Prolonged Power Failure.. Then your Swans and other Domestic Waterfowl are AT RISK..
It is a GOOD Idea to have a Back-up Plan.. Know what you will do..
IF YOU NEED to GO OUT onto the Ice.. to Get your Birds..
Especially, if they are Stuck in Ice..
LET Someone know if you are going out onto Ice. Sliding in a Boat/Kayak might Work. This Ladder Idea Distributes your Weight.. AND WEAR a Life Jacket !!! First Rule BE Safe.. We ALL Love our Swans and Cygnets.. BUT Keep People SAFE First ! ! !
This Shallow Pond is Very Close to Freezing..
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From EMail Messaging with a HomeOwner in OHIO… They had a Mature Cob on their Lake. Normally there is a Natural Area of Open Water. ??? The Shared Image Below – There might be some DeIcing on the Right.. ?? They were Expecting Temperatures to Drop to 30 Below Zero.. COLD !
The Liquid Water will be at least 33 Degrees.. But, the Wind Chill.. may be what is TOO Much.. If “Swanee” is Shivering.. then he is not Coping with the Cold.
Knowing the Weather Forecast, there was Reason to Worry. I Suggested he Shelter his Swan for a Few Day.. It would be Better to be Safe then Sorry.. Adding: Inside an Unheated Build.. it can get VERY Cold.. Provide Something for the Swan to Snuggle into.
An Area around their Dock was Expected to Remain UnFrozen. He Placed a Carpet over the Dock, Mounted a Heat Lamp Under the Dock to Create a Warm Air Space..
The Swan Never went Near the Dock.. Floated out in the Open through the Coldest Nights. The Swan’s Legs were in the 33 Degree Water..
I was Worried that the man might Set his Dock on Fire from the Intense Heat of the Heat Lamp Bulb. (All was OK..)
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For Folks with Docks.. there are Under Dock Mount Circulating DeIcers.
Personally, I would NOT Use These with Swans… There is a FAN Propeller.. NO Guard. I would be Afraid that Nosey Swans would Put their Beaks into the Fan and get a Nasty Cut..
These 3 Month Old Cygnets are Curious and Nosey.. Exploring Everything.
WE are BLESSED ! Our Swans Now are on Ponds with Natural Open Areas.
The Pond where our Swans are this Winter has an Incredible UnderGround Spring that Flows into the Pond at 54 Degrees.. and keeps 1/2 of the Upper Pond Open. They have their own Hot Tub !
YES ! ! … We Finally DO NOT need to add a DeIcing System.. ! ! So Far, they are doing Well there.. (Sigh) We are Very Lucky..
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& You are Doing the Best Thing.. You are Preparing and Learning.. (-; PA SwanLover Linda Compiled from our Experiences February 2021 &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
A Winter Wake is a Disturbance in the Surface of Water that Inhibits Freezing.
November 21st, 2020 | Posted by LadyNerkle1 in DO NOT Spay or Neuter Swans - (Comments Off on TOO FIX a SWAN is TOO RISKY to Control their Reproduction.)
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SPAY – Sterilize a Female Mammal by Removing their Ovaries.
NEUTER – Sterilize a Male Mammal by Removing their Testicles.
( Hint – Hint ) Swans are NOT Mammals..
Over the Years, I have Read Various Articles onLine that Haunt me. Articles about Attempts to Sterilize Mute Swans to Control Feral Populations.
The Inhumane Planned Cruelty toward Mute Swans is Unbelievable..
Having Spent Years Working with Mute Swans and their Cygnets, I know how much Personality they have.
Yes, Swan Cobs have BIG Personalities, often a Challenge..
Many Swans are Gentle and Sweet.. Social, Interactive.
Growing Cygnets are Adorable, Innocent.. like Funny Young Children.. They will Nod “Hello” when just Days Old.. Their Vocals are All Different.
Many of Us, Love our Swans the Same way Others Love their Cats and Dogs.. Horses, Goats or Reptiles etc.
It is Important to be RESPONSIBLE for all the Animals and Birds we Bring into our Lives.
The Topic of Sterilizing Mute Swans Comes Up Here and There for Various Reasons.
There are NO Mentions of Sterilizing Trumpeter or Tundra Swans. Generally it is a DNR WildLife “Plan” to Prevent Mute Swan Reproduction.
These Surgical Procedures have been Requested by WildLife Agencies in some States where Mute Swans are Strictly Limited and/or Require a Permit.
Many States want to Eradicate Mute Swans Completely from their Public Lands and WaterWays and to Prohibit Private Property Ownership..
Wildlife Biologists say Feral Mute Swans cause a variety of Problems, including Aggressive Behavior toward People and other Birds.
They are Blamed for Destruction of Aquatic Vegetation, Degradation of Water Quality, Displacement of Native Wildlife Species. Competing for Nesting Areas of Various Waterfowl.
And their Potential Hazards to Aviation. Especially near Airports.
These are ALL Environmental Problems that also Occur with other Swan Species. But, I ONLY Read about Mute Swans being the Trouble-Makers.
In some States where the Public has been Pushing-Back a few WildLife Service have been trying to find a Compromise..
In some Very Strict States, to Own Mute Swans they may NOT Reproduce.
NO EGGs May HATCH.
WildLife Agencies want a more Permanent way to Stop Feral Mute Swans Hatching Cygnets..
They also want to Stop Mute Swan Culling Programs. And/or Stop Annual Programs Addling and Oiling the Spring Eggs..
Culling – Reduction of a Wild Animal Population by Selective Slaughter.
Addling – The Act of Causing Fertilized Eggs to Lose Viability, Killing the Developing Embryo by Shaking, Piercing, Freezing or Oiling, without Breaking the Egg Shells.
Twice in Recent Years, Swan Owners I know have had to Push-back when a WildLife Agency Demanded they have their Female or Male Mute Swans Sterilized. … @1 (more details below)
There were Effort in Years Past to Sterlize Mute Swans.. Most of these Swans did not Survive these Programs.
The Death Rate after Surgery was Terrible.. Average 90% or MORE .!
They Killed Hundreds of Swans trying to do these Specialized Procedures on Male and Female Swans. The Thought is Sickening.
It is VERY Likely a Healthy Swans will have a Fatal Outcome from these Invasive MAJOR Surgeries.
DO NOT be Talking into this.. to Prevent Reproduction.
It is Important to have and KNOW the FACTs. If You should NEED Supportive Information Contact Avian Specialists:
Avian Veterinarians.. Avian Specialists at Major Zoos.. Avian Pathology Specialist at your State Department of Agriculture. Avian Specialists at Veterinarian Schools..
Another Source of Information.. Might be a VERY Experienced Swan Breeder.
The REASON you Should NOT Spay a FEMALE Bird..SWAN IS their Anatomy is not like a Female Mammal..
They do not have an Isolated Uterus for an Embro to Develop and their Eggs are Formed in a Tissue Ovary Mass (No Isolated Ovaries).
This Tissue Ovary Mass is fed by a Large Blood Supply. They would require General Anesthesia..
Very Invasive High RISK Abdominal Surgery with all the Post Op Care…
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The REASON you Should NOT Neuter a MALE Bird.. SWAN IS their Anatomy is not like a Male Mammal..
It would not be a “Snip and Clip” Procedure.
Their Gonads/Testicles are Deep inside their Body.. not in an Exterior Scrotal Pouch.
They would require General Anesthesia.. Very Invasive High RISK Abdominal Surgery with all the Post Op Care…
*******************************
Avian Gonads – Ovary Mass/Testicles are Attached to the Larger Blood Vessels in the Body.
Nicking or Ripping these Blood Supplies while Remove the Gonads will Likely Kill the Swans. Blood Loss could be Severe with NO Way to Replace.
Attempts to Spay or Neuter MAY Kill most Swans. ANY Avian Veterinarians will know this is VERY Risky. These Surgical Techniques have not been Perfected.
The Risky Removal of Avian Reproductive Organs is to Treat Disease: Examples, Testicular Cancer or Tumors of the Oviduct. A “Last Chance” to Save a Bird..
ARTICLE: January 30, 2007 Shooting Mute Swans versus Mute Swans Shooting Blanks
The Wisconsin DNR will allow Citizens in three Southern Counties in their State to “adopt” Wild Mute Swans and Spare them from Approved Lethal Control Measures, (Destroying the Swans) provided they Pay to have them Sterilized. (Average Fee $700.00)
This Barbaric Program in Wisconsin was to Allow the Public to “Adopt” a Swan and have that Swan Sterilized.. Banded and Released.
All Neutered Mute Swans would be Banded in accordance with USGS Bird Banding Laboratory Swan Protocol by DNR Staff prior to Release.
If WildLife Agents were Culling Random Feral Mute Swans were they able to See the Small Metal Leg Bands.. ?? Did the Few that were Released have much Chance.. ??
Plus, if an “Adopted” – “Sterilized” – “Released” Mute Swan Flew to a Different County… it had NOT Protection – Leg Band or No Leg Band.
This Gruesome Attempt to “Sterilize” Mute Swans ENDED.. (Thank Goodness.)
The Referenced OnLine Articles below are Available to Read Cut and Paste into your Browser.. if you want to Read the Full Articles. The WebSites are Checked and Active November 2020
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http://invasivespecies.blogspot.com/2007/01/adopt-swan.html Invasive Species Weblog Author: Jennifer Forman Orth Friday, January 26, 2007 Adopt-A-Swan
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NY eyes plan to shoot, sterilize invasive mute swans along Lake Ontario, elsewhere 2014
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LONG ISLAND …March 9, 2015 State now plans to reduce mute swan population, not kill them.
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LONG ISLAND …March 20, 2015 Letter: No reliable study of mute swans
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Mute Swans in New York …December 2019 A Final Management Plan to Prevent Population Growth and Minimize Impacts of an Invasive Species
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There are Other Articles OnLine. DNR – WildLife Biologists are Either Unaware of how Difficult “Sterilizing” Swans will be.. How Risky – Lethal… Or they Know and are Pushing this to Eliminate more Mute Swans.
Over Time I have Talked with at Least Four Veterinarians in our Area.. Ask what they know about “Sterilizing” Birds – Swans. Not One had any Knowledge or felt it was Worth looking into.
I have spent several Days, Searching the Internet for ANY Information. …. Not a Single Positive Comment. …Only Done for Serious Medical Treatment.
While Researching Information, I have Found Suggestions for Chemical Sterilization.. which is Unreliable. No Studies have been done to Know what Dose is Safe and Effective..
One Article Mentioned using XRay .. which Sounded DRASTIC. Again, NO Studies to know What Treatment is Effective. The Stress to the Swans to even Attempt this.. NOT Worth it.
Chemical Contraceptives are not commonly used on Waterfowl. Contraceptives are increasingly used for the Control of some Avian Reproduction Research and for Therapeutic Reasons.
@1 One Example of a WildLife Agency Demanding Young Female Mute Swans be Sterilized occurred when a Lake Community Home Owners Association Rescued Two Female Cygnets through a One Time Agreement with their State DNR. (Very Surprising)
The Mute Swan Cygnets were Pinioned and DNA Checked.. Both Female.
The Young Female Cygnets (Same Sex Pairing) were Release to Live on a Lovely Lake Surrounded by a Number of Homes..
The Home Owners Association taking the Responsibility for these Cygnets and their Future Care had No Previous Experience with Swans. Lots to Learn.. The Neighbors Welcomed these Young Swans.
The DNR WildLife Service Required the H.O.A. to Prevent any Future Cygnets Hatching. The H.O.A. Planned to do this Requirement they had Agreed to.
(THE BIG CONCERN) As I talked with their Primary SwanKeeper, we Discussed they had Agreed to have these Female Swans Sterilized by the Time these Young Female Swans would be Two Years Old. !!!!!
The State’s Reason: There are enough Rogue Feral Male Swans that might Fly-in – Visit these Females during the Early Spring, Resulting in Fertile Eggs. … @2 (Note to Follow)
When I heard this, the Hair on my Neck went into Panic Mode.. I REMEMBERED the onLine Articles from Years Ago.. All the Swans that Died when they Attempted to Spay/Neuter Swans… I started to Search /Read.. and I have not found ANY GOOD Outcomes.. or Anyone Recommending this Type of Procedure..
For Three Months the DNR Waterfowl Agent INSIST that the Females, now 18-20 Months Old be Surgically Sterilized.
The H.O.A. Provided information and Contacts to Avian Veterinarians who would Attesting to the Very High Risk this would be..
The DNR Agent did not Care and Continued to Insist.. This was their Terms for this Rescue-Adoption to Private Citizens. Stating that this is the Same as Agreeing to Spay a Cat or Dog Adopted from a Rescue Group..
The H.O.A. spent many Hours making Calls, Seeking Attorney Advice.. There was NO Reasoning with the DNR Agent.. It was a Scary Fact that the DNR Could Remove the Females and Destroy them if the H.O.A. did Not Comply.
Finally, Getting in Touch with the Swan Experts at the Regal Swan Foundation in Florida. A Letter from them ENDED this Demand.. and Annual Spoiling their Eggs would be Acceptable.. This took Months of Worry for the H.O.A. who were willing to do what is Safe and Responsible.. Spoiling their Eggs..
As I Write this Account.. These Beautiful Swan Maidens are doing Fine. Adored by their Lake Community.. (Maiden Swans have not Nested Yet.)
To ME: The Safest and Most Responsible way to Prevent their Eggs Hatching is to OIL or Spray with Baking Spray.. and Spoil the Eggs.
OR Remove the Real Fertile or Unfertile Eggs and Substitute Dummy Replacement Eggs. I had Wooden Eggs Turned to use under our Female.. The Pen Below was Another “Must be Sterilized” Story.. @3 Notes Below.
The Eggs our Pen Lays are seldom Fertile and become FOUL before she is done “Sitting.”
So, we Replace the Nasty Eggs and allow her to finish her Incubation Time. Mute Swan Pens NEED to “Sit” on Non-Fertile Eggs for 42 Days to Prevent Recycling. (And Laying another Clutch of Eggs.)
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@2 Here in PA, even with very few Feral Mute Swans, we have had to DEAL with at least Three Rogue Swans MESSING up a Stable Swan Pond Situation. So, I do know Male and Female Rogue Swans are a Real Possibility..
I Frequently Speak with Folks who have a Lone Feral Swan Fly into their Ponds or Lake. Some Rogues Stay for a Period of Time to the Delight of these People. They are Usually Full-Wing.. then Gone with a Cool Breeze.
The Above Feral Rogue Female Changed our Entire Swan World.
@3 In a Different State.. On a Large Resort Pond where Swans had Lived for over 30 Years, there is NOW a Strict DNR Management Policy. – NO CYGNETs may Hatch..
For the Swans to Stay on the Resorts’ Pond, DNR was Insisting Either the Female (6 Years Old) or Male (33 Years Old ) be Sterilized.
We had Done a Wooden Egg Swap-Out.. but that was not Acceptable.
This time Several Phone Calls to a Large Zoo, and a Avian Expert or Twos.. the DNR Accepted these the Professional Information.
Instead INSISTING on Spoiling the Spring Eggs themselves, to be Sure it was Done..
We Checked the Eggs we Removed from their Nest.. None were Fertile.
The REGAL SWAN FOUNDATION, Inc. The Regal Swan® Project, Veterinarians Study and Document the Care of Swans in Captive Settings such as Hotels, Resorts, Golf Courses and other related sites.
Contact Sheila Bolin, Orange Lake Resort & Country Club (Email: Bolin.S@att.net) or tel: (407) 239-2292 or
Knox Swan & Dog LLC www.canadiangoosecontrol.com Canada Goose Control Service in North Barrington, Illinois Address: 75 Saddle Tree Lane, North Barrington, IL 60010 Phone: (847) 304-1230
October 10th, 2020 | Posted by LadyNerkle1 in FEEDING STATIONS for Swans - (Comments Off on SWAN FEEDING STATION IDEAs)
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There are as MANY Ways to Feed your Swans as there are Ponds. “Try This” and then “Try That”.. (Sound Familiar)
Until you find what Works Best for Your Swans. AND You..
I have Organize some Information for you to be Aware of.. and Various Images of Swan Feeding “Ideas” we and others have Tried.
Some were NOT Safe.. We were Learning.. Above – The Hanging PVC Flower Pot Worked Well on a Steep Bank… . . but the ROPEs > > > a Risky Tangle Hazard.
Some Examples are from Swan Ponds we would Visit.. Example this Golf Course Pond. A Very UNSAFE Way to Feed their Swans.
The Good, the Bad & the UnSafe.
Beautiful, Graceful, Healthy Swans are a Delight to Behold.
Once Pinioned or Clipped to Ground Swans, They depend on their Caretakers to Provide a Healthy Diet. Captive Swans are Exotic, Domestic Pets.
If a Pond or Lake has Lots of Natural Plant Growth, Insects, Tadpoles, Worms, Snails, Grubs, etc. Swan will Do Well with a Small Amount of Supplemental Feed..
Non-Toxic Algae Blooms and Tiny Floating DuckWeeds are a Swan Buffet.. A more Natural Diet.. “Pond Stew.”
Observe what Water Plants are Available through the Seasons..
Plants Growing in the Water are FULL of Natural Minerals and Vitamins.
Not All Ponds have Adequate Plants for a Compete Healthy Diet. Wild Waterfowl will moved from Ponds to Lakes to Rivers for their Nutrients. Captive Pet Ducks, Geese and Swans CAN NOT do this.
Ponds, Lakes and Lawns Treated with Herbicides will Alter Under Water Plant Growth.. Beautiful to View.. May be Barren of Food for WaterFowl.
A Public Lake Treated with a VERY Dark Shade Plant Control Product. THERE is NOTHING for the Swans to Eat..
The Pond below has a Summer Growth of DuckWeed.. DuckWeed is a Great Natural Food for Waterfowl.
There will be Tender Plants and Water Insect Critters for Munching.
Consider NOT ALL Plants are Edible.. Observe what the Swans are Eating.
***** *****
Large Populations of Pond Fish… Koi, Carp, Chinese Grass Carp, etc.,
Will Consume a Large Quantity of UnderWater Plants.. As the Population of Fish Increase.. Fewer UnderWater Plant are Available.
Feeding Swans in the Winter – Be Careful and Creative.
Remember to Supply More Commercial Feed/Corn Mixture in Colder Months. Total Food Support in Pennsylvania is from Halloween to Saint Patrick’s Day. There are FIVE Long Cold Months with Little Natural Food for Waterfowl.
Depending on the Winter Conditions, Swans will NEED more Calories when they are Subject to Winter’s Cold Temperatures. They need Daily Food for the Quick Energy Calories to keep Warm.
The MAIN Goal in the Winter is for the Swans to have a Healthy Diet.. and for you to be Safe when you are Feeding them.
We used an Extra Long Handle Pond Skimmer Net to Push the Food OUT to the Edge of the Ice Ledge. These Feral Swans were Living along the River. We Never Knew Where we would be Visiting Them. We could not Leave a Feed Container for them.
During the Winter, inside a Shelter.. You will need to have a Heated Bowl for Water or the Water may Freeze. Heated Bowls are Available OnLine and at most Farm Supply Stores.
Grazing on or in the Water is more Natural for the Swans.
These Swans are on Private Ponds.
IT is IMPORTANT to CHECK the AREA you are FEEDING your Swans for TRASH ! Check on the Land and in the Water where they will be Dipping for Food. Remove any Metal, Coins, Plastic, Glass Pieces >> Junk so these DO NOT Get Ingested by Mistake.
Avoid Placing Feed Station where there are LOTs of Pine Needles Ingesting Dry Pine Needles may Puncture a Swan’s Digestive Tract.
Swans are Able to Reach Down Two to Three Feet into the Water.
Years Ago, While doing an Online Search I came across these Images. The Article was Written in Russian.. I was intrigued.
Spending Years Visiting and Feeding Swans.. Camera in Hand. These are Views I have not had the Ability to Capture.
I want to THANK Victor Lyagushkin for Pursuing this Photo Project.
From the Blog: FORANIMALLOVER Why Swans have Long Necks…Posted by ms.tk By Daily Mail Reporter March 7, 2012
Swan Dive: National Geographic Photographer Victor Lyagushkin, took these Incredible Underwater Pictures of Swans Diving for Food at the Blue Lake in Southern Russia.
Because they can not Dive like Ducks, Swans need their Long Necks. Photographer, Victor Lyagushkin’s Eye-Popping Underwater Pictures of Swans Stretching for their Food Shows, “Why Swans have such Beautifully Long Necks.”
This Topic Page has Examples.. to Spark Ideas for your Pond.
Swans are Grazers.. they Nibble throughout the Day.
When Food-Feed is only available Once or Twice a Day, shared from a Tub or Bucket for Assorted Waterfowl, a Swan will Gobble in a hurry knowing there will be Nothing until the Bucket is filled Later or the Next Day.
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This is NOT Normal Eating Behavior for a Swan. This is the way Ducks and Geese Eat.. they are Gobblers. The Frantic Eating Behavior of Gobblers will Overwhelm the Swans.
If at all Possible, ONLY Feed Swans by their Pond – Lake.
Try to find a Way to Feed your Swans so they do Not Need to Leave the Water. Swans are SAFEST in the Water.
On this Pond there were NO Ducks or Geese.. A Vinyl Basket Worked GREAT ! ***** ***** *****
About a Cup of Mixed Floating Cereals is a Nice Treat.
Well Fed Swans Eat VERY Little at Night.. They Naturally Grazed from SunRise to SunSet.
Instinctively, Swans Float Quietly out in the Deeper Water at Night.. Trying not to be Noticed. They are Prey Birds..
They Sleep VERY Lightly at Night.. Taking Turns. (unless alone) They may Sleep more during the Day along the Banks..
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Put Feed out in Early AM – have Available During the Day.
Swans Normally Start Grazing around SunRise.. They do Look Forward to BreakFast… Cute..
You will See them Nodding “Hello” and Snorting “Thank You.”
It is Wise to take the Feed Container in at SunSet to Discourage Rodents Raiding the Feed. Smaller Rodent may Attract Larger Predators..
Feed and Corn will Attract Mice, Shrews, Moles, Voles, Rats, Muskrats, Mink, Squirrels, Rabbits, Woodchucks, Opossums, Skunks, Deer, Raccoons. .. I am Sure I Missed a Few.
All these Rodents may be Carrying Dangerous Diseases/Parasites. As they Raid a Feed Container, Rodents Contaminate the Feed with Saliva, Urine and Droppings.
There are Several Nasty Diseases carried by Raccoons. Raccoons – Their CUTE Faces.. Mask Many Dangers..
Raccoon are a known Rabies Vector. They Carry other Pathogens – Baylisascaris, Leptospirosis, Listeriosis, Tetanus, and Tularemia.
Baylisascaris infection is caused by a Roundworm Found in an Average of 80% of Wild Raccoons. This Roundworm can infect People as well as a Variety of other Animals, including Dogs.
Children MAY pick up Raccoon Roundworm by Playing in their own Back Yard!
The Parasites Invade the Eyes (ocular larva migrans), Body Organs (visceral larva migrans) And/or the Brain (neural larva migrans).
You do not want Raccoons “Pooping” where Children will be Playing.
Raccoons are a Predator for your Swans/Waterfowl. They Steal their Eggs. Raccoons are Feeding their Young in the Spring Time.
Many Swans have their Eggs Stolen during the Night by Raccoons.
Scuffle Scratches with your Swans may become Infected.. AND, Raccoon are Responsible for Killing MANY Swans.. They Typically take only the Head.
Needing to Remove Raccoons seems to be an Endless Problem..
Do NOT Hesitate Arranging to have Raccoons REMOVED from you Property. There are Professional Wildlife Removal Services who will be able to do this Safely.
The Smaller Rodents may Attract the Larger Night Predators. The Carnivores – Fox, Coyotes, Coywolves, Bobcats, Roaming Feral Cats.
Depending on your Location maybe a Bear would be Attracted to a Feed Container.
Feed and/or Small Rodents may Attract Skunks, Weasels, Mink. These may Snatch the small Ducklings, Goslings and Cygnets.
*****
Keeping the Swans’ Feet in the Water while they Eat helps keep them Safe.
Thanks to D.Long for Raising Healthy Rescued Cygnets. All were OFF to Forever Homes.. by the End of Summer. ***** Swans WANT Water with their Feed-Food. Wet Feeds goes down the Swan’s Esophagus Easily..
For Swans to Eat DRY FEED, Extrudes or Pellets without Water, there is a RISK of the Feed Absorbing a little Moisture in their Esophagus, Clumping, getting STUCK, Blocking Swallowing, and Causing a Condition called “CHOKE.”
Especially, if a Swan tries to Eat Dry Feed TOO Fast.
“CHOKE” can be VERY Serious.. an Emergency ! ! !
In our Back Yard Rescue/Recovery Enclosure… This Polyvinyl Toboggan Worked Well as a Water and Feed Station.
Dumping Swan Feed on the Ground or on Rocks is Wasteful.. The Feed is Very Difficult for Swans to Pick-up..
Wet Feed, Corn and Vegetables can be Sucked-up Easily with Water.
There is Always some Feed Left in the Dirt.
Leftover Dry Feed or Corn on the Ground Encourages Rodents, Mold, Insects, Parasites, etc. Plus Swans Poop in/on the Feed.. This is a VERY Poor Practice.
Feed on the Ground will lead to More Environmental Diseases. Bacteria, Fungal, Mold, Mildew, Protozoal & Parasite Disease.
Roundworms are intestinal Parasites that can affect both you and your Pets AND SWANs.
Roundworms include Hookworms and Whipworms. Hookworm Infections can cause Anemia and Affect Physical Growth. AND Death.
Your Swans can be Infected by the Same Parasites as your Dogs.
Ascaris Roundworms can cause Intestinal Disease, leading to Blockages and Perforation of the Intestinal Wall.
A Common Parasite – Giardia is very common in Pennsylvania Pond/Lake/River Waters.
During Warm Weather Insects and All Types of Flies will lay their Eggs in any Feed Material that is Damp on the Ground. …There will be MAGGOTs in a few days.
MAGGOTs : This was a Sub-Topic that I Learned some Surprising Things.
I do not want to get into the Details.. But, there are BackYard Poultry Folks that Raise Maggots in their Vegetable Scraps. Then Feed these Protein Rich Maggots to their Chickens and other Farm Animals. This Maggot Farming is Controlling the Flies-Insect Larva they are Growing.
Free Flying Flies and Insects may Carry Disease from their Out & About Feeding Behavior. They are Attracted to POOP !!! There is Risk of Serious Diseases in the Maggots found in Spoiling Poultry Grains-Feeds. On Average, it takes 3 Days for Insect Eggs to Hatch into Maggots.
INSTRUCTIONs on FEED BAG.. “Provide Fresh Feed and Water Daily.”
*****
DO NOT PUT FEED for Swans on the Ground.
Even a Cheap Frisbee would Keep the Feed OFF the Ground.
Mute Swans can Live a Very Long Time with Good Care. (And Luck) The Less they need to Dig in the Mud/Dirt for Nutrition, the Less Chance they will acquire Parasites, Ingest Toxic Molds, etc. You will NOT Prevent All Diseases – but you can Reduce the Risks.. It is Safer to Put their Feed Mixture in a Pail of Pond Water.. Swans will Enjoy this Soggy Wet Food. There is Very Little Waste this Way. The Feed is WET and the Swans just “Suck it Up.” Great to do in the Cold Weather Months.. when we Supply more Feed.
The Pail Works Well. THANKs T.J.Millichap for Sharing this Photo.
Swans will need to Trust a Feed Bucket.. that it is Safe to Put their Head in.
You may have to start by Laying the Container on it side on the Ground until the Swan understands there is Feed in it…. Wet Feed Smells like Dog Food.. Just start with a Cup of Feed Mix…
Put Chucks of Yummy Lettuce in the Bucket.. Swans are Smart, they will Learn Quickly….
***************************** WATCH for Dangerous Plant Growth in the Water.. Be Aware !
The Retention Pond Above was not Tested for Blue-Green Algae. The Swans Left the Pond on their Own in the Mid- July Heat and Spent Several Weeks on the Property Stream. The Pond Water was NOT Safe for them to be in.. The Swans Knew it.
During Warm Dry Months, Stagnant Muddy Water may put Waterfowl at Risk of Fatal Clostridia Bacteria. Avian Botulism is Associated with Decaying Organic Mud – Muck.
We Lost Two Beautiful Females to Clostrida Infection they Developed during Nesting.. When they were Not Eating and Flushing these Pathogenic Bacteria through their Intestinal Track.. It was HeartBreaking. They were the Sweetest Pens.
We Learned what caused their Deaths.. by having a Necropsy Preformed at the PA Department of Agriculture Pathology Laboratory.
There is Value in having a Necropy when Swans Die of Unknown Cause. You may be able to Treat and Save their Companion or Mate.. Some Diseases can be Treated.. Or Nutrient Deficiencies can be Corrected.
Years ago, when a Basically Healthy Male Swan died, the Owner thought she might have Poisoned the Cob by Putting Rat Poison out. The Cob was Found not Sleeping – but Dead..
There was Spilled Feed all over the Ground.. (Several Feeding Stations) and Rats were Scurrying about Raiding the Feed Buckets. Rat Droppings were Readily seen in the Feed.
The Cob Frequently Ate the Feed that was Laying on the Ground.. PLUS the Feed Stations were Large Metal Galvanized Trash Cans. WHICH are a Potential for Heavy Metal Poisoning !
The Rat Poison had been Carefully placed where the Swans would not get into it.. Could he have Gotten some of the Poison ???
We Arranged for a Necropsy at the PA Department of Agriculture Animal Pathology Laboratory, to Learn what really happened.
There was NO Sign of Ingested Rat Poison in the Cob’s Body.. Most Rat Poisons have a Blue-Green Dye that can be Seen during the Gross Necropsy.. …The Lab Studies told the Story.
So Sad, “Lynn” a Gentle Cob, Died from Avian Cholera. Likely from Rat Saliva Contaminating the Feed on the Ground.
Whole Corn Softens in Very Shallow Water.. Swans Love Softened Corn.
The Swans can Suck-Up the Wet Feed/Corn.
Always put in Shallow Water where they can See the Bottom. This will Help them Avoid Snapping Turtles that Sneak Close.. Frequently CHECK for Trash in their Feeding Areas.
By 3-4 Months Mute Cygnets will do OK with WET Whole Shell Corn.
With the Smaller Black Australian.. Wait until they are Older. Watch them Closely when offering Wet Whole Corn..
Any Feed Put Out for Swans should be Checked Daily. In the Summer it Spoils VERY Easily if it gets Wet. . . . Especially Above 65 Degrees. Spoiled/Soured Feed can make a Swan VERY Sick.
***** *****
Not Sure Why…. but, the Swans Show Little Interest in Eating on Rainy Days.
DO NOT use Metal Containers as Feed or Water Dishes.. Use Clean Dedicated Polyvinyl Containers for Feed Safety.
Is PVC Safe for My Bird? MakeYourOwnBirdToys.commakeyourownbirdtoys.com
Although the Manufacture of PVC is NOT an Environmentally Friendly Process, the Stability of the final Product in its Rigid Form Renders it Non-Toxic and Safe for Birds.
Most Farm and Feed Supply Stores will have an Assortment of Animal Safe Containers.
Is Plastic Safe for Birds? MakeYourOwnBirdToys.commakeyourownbirdtoys.com
Brittle Plastics should not be given to Larger Birds because when they Break Very Sharp, Cutting Edges are formed and if Swallowed Accidentally could Result in Ruptured Organs.
Degrading Plastics release Environmental Damaging Chemicals – Polychlorinated Biphenyls (PCBs) and Dioxins. We had One Precious Rescued Polish Cygnet Die from Elevated Levels of PCB.. We have NO Idea how she was Exposed.. It was Ingested… ???
DO NOT use a Container that had any Chemicals in it.. You can Wash them.. but, there will be Residuals in the Surface.
A Container Originally used for FOOD.. OK.. Like Flour, Donut Mix, Ice Cream, etc. We Found Very Nice 5 Gallon Buckets at a Donut Store for $1.00.
You can get NEW Food Safe 5 Gallon Buckets for about $6-8.00.
*****
Thanks for Sharing.. K.Anderson. ***********************************************************************
One of My New Swan Friends Shared this Idea… I LOVE This.. Their Swans are Safely Eating in the Water ! ! !
GREAT Idea…A 5 Gallon Vinyl Bucket and Kitchen Vinyl Colanders.. !! This Feeding Station Bucket has the Bottom Removed. That Allows the Bucket Base to be Twist-Wiggled into the Soft Silt-Mud in their Pond’s Shallow Water. Easy to Move About as Needed. Having the Bucket Bottom Removed makes it Extra Easy to Clean.
In Many of the Ponds and Lakes we have Visited, the Rocks and Shale would Prevent Pushing the Bucket into a Soft Silt-Mud Substratum. It is Likely, that Partially Filling with Water, the Bucket with Intact Bottom would be Stable in Shallow Water. This is a Great Idea – With or Without the Bucket Bottom.
Adjust the Height for Easy Eating for the Swans..
Hello, Sweet Swans. It Time for Dinner !
THANKS for SHARING – H.Thomas..
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This Saucer Feeder is at a Level Good for the Swans.. Not for the Ducks. The Terra Cotta Strawberry Planter is a Solid Support to Cradle a Vinyl Bowl. THANKs for SHARING – S.Mesry.
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A Swan Cafeteria (I Love this One)
Be Careful with Any Ropes.. KEEP them VERY Taunt !
THANKs for SHARING – L.Arfaras *******************************************************************
OR Skip the Ropes.. Keep the Feed Dishes Very Close to the Water.
Thanks for Sharing this Photo… S.Campanelli *******************************************************************
This Lake has LOTs of Wild Ducks.. that Love the Swan Feed.. So…
This is a Creative Feeding Container.. Thanks… B.Foy. *******************************************************************
Wood Feed Boxes.. Often Build by Creative, Caring Hands.. They Look Nice. But, Out in the Elements.. they are Not Safe.
Feed will get Wet. These are Difficult to Clean Completely. Molds, Fungus and Bacteria will Grow in the Wood Cracks.
The Wooden Feeder above…Over Time became UNSAFE !! This Did Prevented the Canada Geese from Reaching the Feed..
Glass – Ceramic – Pottery BREAK – Small Broken Pieces might be Eaten. In the Gizzard these Sharp Pieces will Cut the Gizzard Muscles..and NOT Pass Through.
Try to Remove all Visible Debris from your Pond Area. Prevent Hardware Disease.
AVOID METAL FEED CONTAINERs Aluminum, Copper, Tin, Zinc, Lead, Brass, Iron will Contaminate their Feed, Risking Heavy Metal Poisoning..
Birds are VERY Sensitive to Heavy Metal Poisoning. I was Surprised.. Even Stainless Steel is to be Avoided.
The MOST Common Heavy Metal Concern is Lead Poisoning. Old Fishing Sinkers, Lead Shot in the Water.. Flaking – Rusting Galvanized Metal Chicken Feed Containers.
Porcelain Pans – Bowls Most Cook Ware have Metal Cores.
I Love these Red Cast Iron Enameled Casserole Pot.. But, they are NOT Safe to use for Feed or Water for Birds. Cast Iron and Aluminium Pots React with Fermenting Feeds.
*** Swans are VERY Sensitive to METAL. Best NOT to Store their Extra Feed Mixture in a Metal Container. UNLESS it is Lined with a HEAVY Plastic Bag.. or Kept in the Original Feed Bags.
Stored Feed will Attract Rodents.. Storing in a Sturdy Metal Container may be Necessary.. Line it So the Feed does not Touch the Metal..
It is Good to have Extra Feed in the Winter Months. Stored in a Cool, Dry Place.
In Warmer Months.. Having Extra Commercial Bag Feeds is Less Ideal. Stored in a Place where there is Heat and Humidity.. the Feed may Spoil.
High Humidity may Result in Mold Forming in the Feed. DISCARD ! ! !
Summer Heat will Cause the Tiny Insect Eggs in ALL Feeds to Hatch.
Corn Weevils do NOT Fly, Wheat Weevils DO Fly.. If there are Only a Few that Hatch.. Waterfowl will Enjoy these Tiny Bugs.
Many Commercial Feed Products are Now Available for Home Delivery when Ordered from Chewy.com > > > Very Convenient.
Having a Mixed Population of Waterfowl – Swans, Geese and Ducks.. you will need to have Different Feeding Containers.
Shallow Dishes around the Pond for the Shorter Ducks and Geese..
And a Swan Feed Container Mounted or Arranged for the Swans.
Some Corn and Pellets BroadCast out on the Pond Surface for Grazing . Floating the Lettuce for all the Waterfowl.. A Welcome Treat for ALL..
There are Ways to Discourage Wild Geese..
Arrange the Feed Containers about 18 Inches High.. Adjust for your Shortest Swan..
This Covered Bucket Feeder was Home Crafted…. Nicely Done. The Front Opening to Access the Feed Mixture is 18 Inches above the Water. The Swans can Keep their Feet in the Water. They can Eat some of the Feed Mix they Drop.. AND, their CareTakers can Safely Service the Feeder.
Thanks for Sharing Your Photos .. R.Becker. ************************************************************
Swans are VERY Messy, Wasteful Eaters. A Few Ducks are Good for Clean-up.
We have Noticed that on Snowy or Rainy Days.. the Swans Eat Much Less – if at All. Not Sure Why… ?? But, we would just put some Corn Out on Bad Weather Days.
During Winter Months, the MOST Important thing to Consider is the Safety of the People Feeding the Swans.. Working around a Pond, or Lake .. Frost, Ice, Packed Snow.. Take Extra Care..
Are you Familiar with Ice Cleats.. ??? THESE WORK. !!! Most Sporting Goods Stores Carry these.
These were the First Cleats I Found.. I have Used them for YEARS ! There are Small Spikes that Grip into Packed Snow and Ice.
There are Cleats that will Fit on Boots and Shoes. There are a Wide Variety of Brands to Choose from.
DO NOT Walk on a Solid Surfaces with these.. Like Side Walks, Asphalt or a Tile Floor … there they are Slippery ! ! !
Try to Find a Place you will be SAFE Servicing their Food in the Winter.
Winter, with Snow and Ice.. think ahead where you will be Safe. The First Year you will be getting to know the Swans and all the Variation that make Things Work for your Pond.
The Basic Idea is to have the Opening about 18 Inches High.. Watch to be sure the Shortest Swan can Reach the Feed.. This way Very Few of the Canada Geese can Raid the Feed..
If the Water Level goes UP Canada Geese can Help themselves.
If the Water Level goes DOWN the Swans may not be able to Reach..
If you see the Swans Nibbling Comfortably then they are Happy..
Over the Years I have “Heard” of Several Problems with Box Type Feeders.
These Feeders are OUT in the Summer Sun and Humidity.. Morning Dew. Feed in the Feeder for Several Days may become Moldy.
In the Winter if the Feed Gets WET.. It Can Freeze.
Tube Nests of Mud Dauber Wasps..
Wasp Nests inside the Roof.. YOU MAY GET a PAINFUL SURPRISE !!! Wasps or Bees or Hornets or Yellow Jackets.. Could Sting You or the Swans.
A Paper Wasp Nest… Constructed Inside the Feeder..
Another One, Maggots from Flies being Attracted to the Protein in the Feed..after it was Damp.. You have NO Idea what Pile of Poop these Flies may have Visited before Depositing their Eggs in the Damp Feed. YUCK !!!! Frequent Cleaning Helps.. Best to ONLY have Two Days of Feed.
It takes about 3 Days for Insect and Fly Eggs to Hatch..
Seems there is Always Something to Worry with.. Sigh !
A Simple Bucket can be an Easy Feeder.. and EASY to Clean. Be Aware Handles can be a Tangle Hazard. Tie them Fast.. or Remove.. or Anchor with a Stake..
WE Sat with these Swans while they Ate from this Bucket.. Then Dumped the Left Overs in Shallow Water for the Remainder of the Day.
A Five Gallon Bucket is an Easy Feeder. Propped on an Angle it is Hard for Geese to Raid.
Just Laying on the Bank, Supported by Plant Clumps.
We Used this Feeding Bucket to Catch Several Swans.. When they Put their Head into the Bucket.. Quickly get HOLD of their Neck… DO NOT JERK.. Just Hold. Have Someone Nearby to HELP !
We Dumped any Left Over Veggies & Feed – Refreshed Daily. (The Carp and Blue Gills Cleaned-up.)
We could move the Baskets when needed..
We used a Garden Tool – Cultivator to Move the Baskets in and out of the Shallow Water.
Rob keeps the Cultivator with him to Grab any Trash he finds in the Ponds.. as a Walking Stick.. Multi-Purpose Tool.
There were few Canada Geese Visiting that Pond. The Canada Geese can be a Worry for the Swans. The Swans may Spend MORE Time Chasing then Eating…. All the While, Geese are Snatching Bites of the Feed-Foods.
When you have Spring or Fall Migrating Canada Geese.. You many need to Change your Regular Feeding for a Few Days.
A VERY Clean Bucket that did not have Chemicals in at some Point. PolyVinyl is Safe… The Spackling Bucket in these Images.. Used Along the Creek. Had been Washed Over and Over for Years…
An Internet Search.. Spackling Compound has a Very Low Toxic Concern. We were Using this Improvised Feeding Station along a Local Creek.. We were Learning.. Now we use New Food Dedicated Buckets. Metal Buckets are NOT Safe … Risk- Heavy Metal Poisoning.
You can Move this Feed Station when the Water Level Changes.. Some People do not like the Look of a Tire and Bucket.. BUT, it Works.. is Easy to Clean..
Pick a Nicer Tire.. THEN Cut Drainage Holes on the Bottom Side.. to Prevent Water Pooling Inside and Creating a Mosquito Breeding Puddle.
DO NOT Place Feed Near a Nest.. Keep at Least 30 Feed Away. That is why we were along a Local Creek.. Our WayWard Swans were Nesting. They Left the Safety of a Private Pond.. Things were Never the Same..
One of the Ponds.. “The Feathered Friends Pond” used the “Bucket-Tire” for a few weeks. Lovely Green Lawn.. It made the Expected Marks. Had this been almost in the Water less Damage to the Lawn.
If Left out, Deer may Find the Feed Buckets. Over Night these Buckets are a Free WildLife Buffet.
I Tried this Vinyl Flower Pot Hanging by Ropes from a Stake. Watching for a Few Weeks. I Started to Worry that the Rope would be a Tangle Hazard. Time for a New Idea.
TANGLE HAZARD WORRY
Dry Feed is Not Easy for Swans to Eat, they Drop about 1/2. You will have Ants and Insects.. and Rodents if there is Feed on the Ground.. Mixed in the Water..they can Suck up the Dropped Feed..
Make Sure the Shortest Cygnet/Swan can Reach.. One Day’s Worth of Feed.. then Refresh Next Day..
We were Learning.. New to Swan Care. .. Trying Different Ways to Feed Our Swans..
We used this Flower Pot Feeder for Several Weeks.. The ROPE Could be Adjusted as the Water Level Changed.. I Started to Worry about the Swans getting Tangled in the Rope.. We Stopped using this Pot Feeder.. TOO Risky.
We have Never Assembled One of the PVC Pipe Feeders.. We had Swan Friends who had been using this PVC Gravity Feeder for a Number of Years.
I know D.R. had been Tinkering with the Design.. He Started with the Lazy S Downward Turn at the Feeding End..
I Think he was trying to keep the Feed Mixture Dry.. But over time, Changed to the Basic Candy Cane Shape. Easier for the Swans to Reach in… Easier to Clean.
Only a Few are using these PVC Pipe Feeders. There is a LOT of Wasted Feed if Positioned Over Deeper Water..
The Feed Falls Down. Any that does not Float is Lost to the Fish. The Swans want their Feed Wet – So they Dip and Lose a Lot..
All I have are the Photos to Share this Idea.. I Think the Parts are All General Plumbing PVC Items.
This Feeder Works.. just Watch the Water Level.. Do Not Over Fill.. If the Feed Mixture gets Damp.. it can Clump or Spoil.. About 2 Days Worth of Feed at a Time.. 3 at the Most in Cool Weather. When the Pond Water Level goes UP… the Canada Geese can reach in..
When the Pond Water Level goes Down.. the Swans may not be able to Reach.
So, it is Good to have a Way to Adjust the Height.. Ideal Average Height is 18” above the Water.. Then be sure your Shortest Swan (Cygnet) can REACH.
This Tiny Cygnet was READY for the Wet Floating Pellets. ***********************************************************************
I SMILED through the Entire Video.. What a GREAT Idea..
NOW to Adapt for the Swans.. Suggestions. Larger Diameter Pipe – Maybe a 6 or 8 Inched PVC Pipe.. & Shorter.. But, that would depend on what Puzzle Parts would Work..
Swans are MESSY Eaters.. They can WASTE 30-50% of their Feed.. If this Design Helps to Control some of the Splattered Feed.. Worth a Try.. I LOVE the Idea.. We have NOT Tried this.
Not Helpful if Canada Geese are a Problem. Well Maybe if Elevated..
Feeding Stations to Discourage Canada Geese. Arrange Feeder 18 Inches High or Deep like a 5 Gallon Bucket.. Most Geese (and Ducks) can not Reach the Feed.. One Day’s Rations.
I Found this Idea onLine.. A Bucket and PVC Pipe Combination. Wonder if this would Work.. Hummm….
At Least One Swan Pond, just Sits the 5 Gallon Bucket Out.. The Swans can Reach their Feed..The Geese CANNOT !!!
Smooth Side Bucket Sitting Up-Right makes it Difficult for Mice and Rats to Contaminate the Feed. Rodent Saliva and their Droppings Spread DISEASE.
I Suggest Either Removing the Handle.. or Securing it ! ! It May Never Happen.. but, Nosy Swans Might get Tangled in the Handle. Swans can get their Necks and Legs in the Darnedest Places ! !
Observe the Mute Swans’ Knobs.. Mutes are Unique. Their Knobs will be Full and Round when they have a Healthy Weight. Their Knobs will Shrink when they are Losing Weight.
The Cobs have more Swollen Knobs from December through May.. After Nesting, the Cob’s Knob will be Full but not AS Large.
The Females – Pens do the Same. Their Knob SWELLs and then Shrink after Nesting. Pens do Lose Weight during Nesting.. and NEED Good Nutrition afterwards. You will get to know their Annual Cycle.
Containers Tall Enough will Discourage Canada Geese Raiding Feed. A 5 Gallon Bucket – Works well for Adult Swans. Use a Smaller/Shorter Container for Smaller Juveniles or Cygnets.
When you Set-up a New Feeding Container.. It May take a Few Days for the Swans to Accept New Objects in the Pond. – it may need a Few Adjustments. Try to Watch for a Few Minutes that the Swans are Able to Reach the Feed..
This will not Discourage Raccoons and probably not the Muskrats… Sorry. Taking the Feed in at Night Helps with Night Raiders.
FEEDING Cygnets.. Tiny Cygnets are So Cute.. AND Very Messy.
*****
If you have a Shallow Feed Dish with Wet “Start-N-Grow,” (Never Chick-Starter) it Helps to Place a Stable Object in the Middle.
OR the Cygnets will Climb into the Food Dish to Swim. > > > And POOP !
As Cygnets Grow during their First Four Weeks.. IMPROVISE.
*****
Watch that ALL the Cygnets are Eating.. A Long “Pecking Order” might be a Problem for the Smaller Cygnets. Large Cygnets may be Pushy.. Below the Polish Cygnet is NOT Eating with the Brood.
Cygnets will Graze from the Pond as Soon as they Leave the Nest. Float various SMALL Food Treats..
*****
Swan Cygnets GROW VERY Fast.. Change their Feed Stations as Needed.
We had the Pleasure of Visiting a Variety of Swan Ponds. Most were Swans we Rescued and Arranged Forever Homes for.
Hand Feeding the Swans is Enjoyable. Some Swans will Easily Hand Feed.. Some will Come Close.. but NOT take Food from your Hands. Trust Takes Time. Try No Eye Contact. Holding the Food and Do NOT Looking at the Swans.
The Cobs above.. One would take Lettuce from us.. the Other would Not.
Well Socializing Cygnets make them Wonderful Pets.
Some Cygnets are Grabby…. Some are Shy…. It is Fun to Hand Feed.
***** *****
We have NO Pond. Our Swans have Lived on Various Ponds. Welcomed and Cared for by Wonderful Folks. Many Thanks to ALL of You.
*****
Swans have Very Good Memories.. We might only get to Visit Once a Month. The Swans know us. Know we will have Veggies and Treats. Come to Visit.
***** *****
We were Very Fortunate to have One Pair of Our Rescued Swans Live at a Private Golf Course for close to a Year. We were able to Visit and Feed them Every Day.. Sweet Memories..
*****
Hand Feeding Mature Cobs will NOT be Possible When… They are HORMONAL ! ! Watch for more Aggressive Behavior.
*****
It is Best to GIVE Hormonal Cobs LOTs of Space..
and Wait for their Hormones to Decrease.
Swans with Cygnets will Vary in their Behavior… Some will be Very Protective.
Others will be more Trusting. Allowing more Social Visits.
Keep Yourself Safe.. at a Distance or with Some Type of Barrier..
This was TRUST.. for the Swan Family to Come Close for Treats… We Knew this Swan Family well.. They knew we were NOT a Threat.
The Trust we Established Paid-off when it was time to Collect DNA Samples, Color ID Banding them.. And Later when it was Time to ReHome- Transport. We Enjoyed our Visits with this Large Swan Family. ALL 10 of them.
Tender Lawn Grasses are Part of a Swan’s Summer Diet.
When Waterfowl Eat Grass they Ingest Microorganisms that their Gut needs to Produce an Enzyme called Cellulase, which breaks down the Cellulose in Grass.
Grass is Surprisingly Rich in Protein, Carbohydrates, Minerals such as Iron, Phosphorus, Magnesium, Vitamin C, and Vitamin E.
Grass is a Great Source of Fiber.. and may HELP to Push Intestinal Parasites through their System.
Grasses will include many Insects.. “Crunchy Munchies.” Protein and Calcium.
Swans like the Tender Blades of Growing Grass.. Try to Leave Alternating Areas UnCut for an Extra Weeks..
Maybe Divide Three Areas.. Cut One.. Leave Two.. Rotate.
Swans are Prone to Under Tongue-Chin Impactions.. Grazing on SHORT Cut Grass is a Common Culprit.
Swans/Cygnets LOVE “Fresh” Cut Grass.. Dump some Clean Grass from your Mower Bag on the Water.. A Gallon or So.. Floating in Shallow Water is a Favorite Treat.
***** *****
Clover and Dandelions are Tasty Lawn Weeds.
Thorny Thistle Plants are a Grazing Hazard.. OUCH !! Try to Remove these from Grazing Areas.. They are Difficult to Control.
From a Swan Friend in OHIO…. What Fun !! “We made “Frozen Food Patties” in Muffin Tins so we could use a Ball Thrower to get their Food out into the Lake.” J.Heidy 2019
On HOT Summer Days.. I Froze Chopped Vegetables in a Jello Mold > > > > to Float out on their Pond..
As it Melted the Veggie Treats were Scattered About for Grazing.
A Pile of Lettuce Leaves with Mixed Veggies Along the Water’s Edge is a Swan Picnic Lunch.
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We Tried Many Ways to Feed our Swans over the Years.. Methods Varied with the Seasons.. Ideas Compiled by – Linda M.Sweger Updated DECEMBER 2022 IDEAs from Lots of Pond Visits and Shared by Other Swan Folks.
I WISH ALL the Swans could be 100% Safe and Healthy.. My Goal… more “Joy” and Fewer “Sorrows.”
Captive Swans are No Different then Pet Dogs, Cats, Horses, etc. They need to EAT. They NEED Adequate, Appropriate Foods.
Out of the Bag, the Protein Percentage of U.S. Poultry Feed is TOO HIGH for SWANs. A Swan’s Diet – Protein Level 6 – 8 % <<<< Less then 10 %.
Mixing to a Safe Nutritional Value for Swans is Our Responsibility.. Always ask for “NON-MEDICATED/UNTREATED” Commercial Feed & Corn or Crimped Oats – Very Important.
DO NOT FEED THE SWANS ANY FEED with “GROWER” or “FINISHER in the Name. DO NOT FEED THE SWANS “Game Bird Feeds.”
The Lysine Levels are too HIGH…Greater then 1.0 %. These Feeds are Formulated to increase the Muscle Tissue and are for Poultry Fowl Headed to Someone’s Dinner Table.
Keep the Lysine Level at 1.00% or Less.
Most Extruded Poultry Feeds Dissolve Sitting in Water. It is more Efficient when using these Products to place the Mixture in a Container/Bowl. Water Close-by.
For their Safety Keep your Swans’ Feet in the Water..
Below are Several Pages of Feeder Ideas from: SWAN Breeding and Management by Loyd Stromberg
I did not want to Alter these Pages.. This Page Talks of Feeding Turkey Breeder Feed.. The Protein Level is TOO High. NOT Safe. These Pages were Written Many Years Ago.. We have Learned.
The Ideas are Here.. BUT… Try to USE POLYVINYL Materials. NO WOOD or METAL Materials…
If you Create an Interesting Feeding Station.. and Want to Share Your Idea.. Send me Some Nice Photos and Basic Instruction.. and I will Share Here.
***** SWANs will DO Some Very Silly Things.. SIGH !
September 13th, 2020 | Posted by LadyNerkle1 in COMMON Mute Swan Behaviors - (Comments Off on These are Common Mute Swan Behaviors you will See.)
MUTE SWANs do not Read the various Books, Websites or Articles Written about them.
I Hope this Topic Page will Help you Learn what Your Swans are Doing..
I Want to Start with these Images of a Swan with a Leg and Foot Resting on his Back. THIS is NORMAL.. He is just Relaxing.
To Enlarge Images – Right Click Image then Open in a New Tab.
I Frequently get Calls and EMails from VERY Worried People.. They are Concerned that a Swan’s Leg is Injured or Broken !!
Folks Seeing this Behavior for the First Time are Afraid their Swans or Cygnets are Injured.. If you Observe this.. This is Perfectly Normal..
This Leg-Foot Position Also Aids Regulating their Body Temperature. Foot Turned toward the Sun to Warm themselves during the Winter. This will Allow Cooling on Hot Days.. as Water Evaporates from their Foot.
Watch the Swans for a While to be Sure. Just in Case there is a Problem.
The Black Australian Cob is Resting his Leg-Foot on his Back.. It is OK !
Swans will S t r e t c h their Legs at Times.. This is OK.. Must Feel Good.
OK ! ! Let’s S T R E T C H a Wing while Balancing on One Foot !
Flapping their Wings helps to Align all the Wing Feathers..
Flitting – Some Swans Flit their Wings.. Seems Different with Individual Swans. Some do this when Drying their Wet Wings. Some do this when they are Irritated.. Annoyed by Visitors.. Some just do this.. Unknown Reason.
Be Aware of these Normal Swan Behaviors.. All Species of Swans do this. PLEASE DO NOT CALL WILDLIFE SERVICES.. to Report this BEHAVIOR. Several Swans have been Destroyed when WildLife Agents Responded..
I am Including these Images of Angel Wing Deformities.. BECAUSE… This is Another Time People Unfamiliar with Swans become VERY Concerned. Angel Wings are NOT a Broken Wing.. More Information is at:
BEFORE YOU SEEK HELP… BE SURE THERE IS A TRUE INJURY. Send a Photo to Someone Familiar with WaterFowl.
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Working with Swans Year after Year, there are Some Common Behaviors.
The Good, the BAD and the OH NO… RUN ! ! – (Just Kidding)
Now for the MORE Fun Behaviors..
The Tail Wag.. … “Are They Happy to See Me ? No… They are Cleaning their Bottom.. After Expelling Poop !
When Swans are Happy to See You.. Their Upper Necks Swell.. Puff-Up.
Swans will Watch for You , if you have a Routine Time that you will Visit them.
Nod YES – “Hello” when you First Make Eye Contact.. They Usually Nod Back.
And a BIG Happy Snort with their Head held High.. Is “HELLO.”
Swans will Frequently Greet Each Other.. With Swollen Upper Necks. This is Expressing Happy Emotions.. It is a Joy to Watch Them.
It is Delightful to Watch our Swans Expressing they are Happy.
Our Sister Swans were Apart for Several Months.. They were SO Happy to be Together Again.. Their Greeting was Full of Happy Squealing, Head Turning and Swollen Necks.
In the Summer Months this is an Affectionate Greeting..
During the Winter Months it is more Courting Behavior as their Reproductive Hormones are Increasing.. Soon Mating will Begin..
When I was Editing these Photos… I Realized I had Snapped our Cob Checking his Females for their Reproductive Hormones.. Status. Were they Ready for Mating.. Over Time, I found more Examples.
Many Times I have Watched the Females Encourage the Cob to Mate. They Up-End. Showing their Cloaca to the Male.. ??? Maybe Pheromones.
A Pheromone is a Secreted or Excreted Chemical Factor that Triggers a Social Response in Members of the Same Species. – Wikipedia
One Summer we were Invited to “Swan Sit” a Mature Pair of Swans during a Family Wedding. To keep Everyone Safe – Guests and Swans.
There was a Lovely Instrumental Music Floating through the Air. I Caught “Gracie” Twirling-Pirouettes in the Water.. She was Encouraging “George” to Join her. Nodding her Head to him. After a Few Minutes even “George” did a Complete Twirl.
The Swans were Very Well Behaved that Day.. I Enjoyed our Time with them.
It was not often to see a Pen “Pushing Water.” I Watched “Lizzie” to see what had her in such a Hurry..
She was Going to Chase One of her Cygnets AWAY from an UnSafe Place. The Curious Cygnet knew his Dam meant Business. “GET OUT of THERE” !
Many of her Cygnets have been Taken by Snapping Turtle in their Ponds. Very Few of “Lizzie’s” Cygnets Survived. So Sad.
************************************************************************ We would Visit this Young Pair of Male Swans about Once a Month.. They knew us.. and our Vegetable Treats.
Both would Come Out of the Pond for some Visit Time on the Lawn..
They Trust Us.. But will be Checking for Danger as we Visit..
They would BOTH Look Around Frequently to Check for Danger.
OOPs !! There was a Strange Noise Coming from a Nearby Field.
They Stopped Eating… And Started to Talk to Each Other..
We Watched the Boys Talk about what to Do.. Eat or Go Back to the Pond ?
They Agreed to Go Back to the Safety of their Pond.
If you Check these Images, you will See them Looking Left – Right – Repeat.
We NEED to Teach this Safe Behavior to our Young Childrens..
Many Swans do this Naturally.. Interesting to Watch them Communicate.
Swans are Sight Oriented. Recognize People, Clothing, Cars, Motor Vehicles. When wearing Hats & Coats during Winter – Talk – Call Hello – “Nod” Hello.
Watching us Over their Shoulders. It is Common for Swans to Float so we are Looking at their Backs.. They do this to Watch all Around – Wide Peripheral Vision. They will Slowly Turn their Heads Side to Side..
Generally, Young Cygnets and Juvenile Swans will Welcome Immature Swans to their Pond..
They Easily Form Juvenile Groups, Protecting the NewComers.
They do Well Together until Around 24 Months Old.. Then Watch for Tension – Aggression. Time for Some ReHoming..
We Witnessed the Behavior Below at Least Twice.. A Swan Neck-Hugging. Rob had his Camera READY This Time..
These Young Swan Cygnets had been Apart for Several Months. When ALL had been Successfully Rehabbed for Various Medical Issues, We were Able to Bring them to Live Together on a Real Farm Pond..
They were Very Happy to Be Together Again..
“Meadow” Neck-Hugged Both Sisters as they came up to his Preening Site.
I have had Other Swan Folks Reporting this Neck Twining – Hugging Behavior.
“Meadow” Hugged Both Sister Swans. He Accepted Both.. They formed a Threesome.. We were Very Lucky for 8 Years.
A Threesome is NOT a Normal Behavior for Mute Swans.. Normally a Breeding Mute Swan Pair is One Male and One Female..
August 16th, 2020 | Posted by LadyNerkle1 in SAFE Swan Bedding - (Comments Off on What Bedding is Safe for Swans ???)
Straw vs Hay vs Wood Chips& Shavings.
I want to Share this General Information with you.. from Articles I have found Online when I was Researching Safe Bedding for our Rescued Cygnets & Swans.
Hay vs Wood Shavings vs Straw..
To Enlarge Images – Right Click Image then Open in a New Tab.
It GOOD to Understand the Difference in these Materials.
It does Depend on How various Bedding Material is being Used.. Inside or Outside.
First a Summary of Hay. Learning about HAY is a BIG Subject. Lots of Info OnLine. THE MOST Important to Know.. Is to KEEP Stored Hay Dry.
Hay is Used as a Livestock Feed. There are Different Field Grasses that will be Baled as Hay.
Timothy and Alfalfa are Common as Animal Fodder (feed).
Hay is Part of the Diet for Horses, Cows, Goats, Sheep, especially during Winter Months.
Hay is Part of a Healthy Diet for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs..
Wet or Damp Hay is Prone to Mold/Mildew. Due to the Carbohydrates/Starch in these Plant Fibers.
Hay Molds Easily when it Gets Damp.. Humidity >>> Dampness = Micro-Organisms will Grow.
Hay will Grow Bacteria, Mildew – Molds. Hay can become a Fungus **Spore BOMB** over Time.
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Straw is used as Bedding. Straw is Drier, Coarse Plant Fiber.
Straw is Harvested after Grain Crops have Died.
There is Very Little Nutritional Value. Using Straw is Generally the most Economic Choice for Bedding.
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Wood Shavings – Chips – Plain or Cedar.. are very Small Pieces.. with LOTs of DUST..
When we work with it, Cleaning, Sweeping, Raking or Spreading, we are there for a few Minutes. We are Standing and are Several Feet above the Shavings Dust..
The Swans, Poultry or other Pets are Sitting in and Shuffling their Feet through this Light, Dusty Material..
The Dust is Easily Inhaled and is an Increased Risk of Causing Lung Problems..
In an Emergency for a Night inside.. An Old Blanket will Do. to keep his BIG Feet off the Cold, Rough Concrete..
Maybe Outside Once Wood Shavings are Wet they are less of a Risk..
When we had Guinea Pigs, many years ago, I Remember DISLiking the Smell of the Cedar Wood Shavings. I would NOT want to Live in that Stuff. The SMELL is Irritating.
Young Swan Cygnets are Eating and Pooping Machines.
Cygnets are GROWING SO FAST ! ! Especially, the first 3 Months.. >>>>>> They are Very Messy Babies. While Inside for Safety… I Used Layers of NewsPaper.. Easy to Roll-up and Discard.. Cygnets like to Snuggle into a Pile of Towels.
If you are Hand Raising and Sheltering for Safety.. Their Shelter Bedding will need to be Changed Frequently..
Fresh Straw is the Safest.. for Bedding. Needs Frequent Changing.. Inside or Outside.
The Main Goal is to keep the Dust at a Minimum to Protect the Swans/Cygnets’ Lungs..
And, Keep Mold and Mildew Spores as Low as Possible..
from Exposure to Damp Feed, Droppings, and Bedding Especially in Hot and Humid Weather Conditions.
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A Highly Contagious Fungi is Aspergillosis. Aspergillosis can be Acute or Chronic in Poultry.
These Fungi Spores are Common in Old Stored Hay..
Aspergillosis Bronchomycosis, Pneumomycosis www.poultrydvm.com This needs to be Copied and Pasted to View.
Aspergillosis is an Opportunistic, Noncontagious Fungal Infection caused by Inhalation of Fungi Spores of Aspergillus.
There are Three Common Species of Aspergillus.
These Fungi may affect the Respiratory Tract and also can Infect the Skin, Bones, Eyes, Intestinal Tract, and Central Nervous System.
Aspergillosis is a Factor when Poultry are Exposed to Moldy or Dusty Environments with Poor Ventilation.
The Disease may be Chronic or Acute when Exposure to Spores is OverWhelming. Most Acute affected Birds will Die within a Few Days without Emergency Veterinary care.
The most Common Symptoms include: Dyspnea – Gasping = Difficult Labored Breathing..
This Black Australian Cygnet had been kept in a Shed with OLD Moldy Hay, he developed Aspergillosis and died.
He came to us too late to even get him to the Vets..
Respiratory Fungus Infections are Difficult to Diagnose and Harder to Treat..
There are MORE then 100,000 Species of Fungi. Fungi = Molds, Mildews, Yeasts, Mushrooms, and Toadstools.
Fungi Spores are EVERYWHERE – AnyWhere there is DUST..
The Ones that cause infections are Yeasts and Molds. Various Fungi cause Respiratory, Skin, Bone, Gizzard, Digestive Tract, Internal Organ Infections..
Some Fungi-Molds Secrete Lethal Toxins. If Feed becomes Damp and Moldy.. THROW IT OUT !
POULTRY >>>>> I Found an Article with a Summary.. Backyard Poultry Contributor • September 23, 2017 What Causes Fungal Infections In Poultry? Knowing the Signs and Symptoms of Chicken Illnesses Can Save Their Lives. Copy and Paste to Read this Article..
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Some Mushrooms should be REMOVED.. from Areas Swans will Graze.
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I Would NOT Use Wood Chips or Shavings for Swans.. Safest to Use a Fresh Bale of Straw.. NO Hay !! AVOID any Mildew or Mold -Wet or Rodent Damaged Materials..
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For Nesting Materials.. Neither Straw or Hay is Recommended. Sitting Outside for 6-7 Weeks.. in Spring Rainy Weather.. these Both Mold, Mildew, stays too Damp, etc.
This “May” Spoil the Swan Eggs during Incubation..
The Safer Nesting Materials are BIG Piles of Clean, Fungus Free Tree-Bush Twigs and Dried Coarse Grasses.. Dense Plant Blades.. Any Materials that will Drain Well..
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& *************************************************************** This is VERY General Basic Information..(c) Linda M.Sweger (-; PA SwanLover Linda > > > Compiled August 2020 &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
August 4th, 2020 | Posted by LadyNerkle1 in SWAN Angel Wing Deformity - (Comments Off on ANGEL WING DEFORMITY in SWANs.)
WATCH for this While Swan Cygnets are Growing.
To ANY Extent that you can Prevent Angel Wing Deformity the Time is Before this Condition Develops.
Angel Wing is Generally a Permanent Disability. The Distal Section the Wing Points OUT Laterally rather than Resting against the Body.
This is Likely a Diet-Related Health Issues – Along with Genetics..
Processed Foods are not Nutritious nor are they Healthy for Wildlife and may lead to Disease and Developmental Disabilities. Angel Wing in Waterfowl is an Example.
To Enlarge Images – Right Click Image then Open in a New Tab.
An Article no longer available, Read: Swans are Prone to a Condition called “Angel Wing.” Apparently, so are Geese and Ducks. Aquatic Waterfowl..
As I Read, I found a Number of other Names given to this Deformity.. “Airplane Wing,” Slipped Wing, Crooked Wing, Drooped Wing, Dropped Wing, Carpel Deformity, Carpometacarpal Deformity, Flip Wing, Rotating Wing, Sword Wing, and a few other Odd Names.
Various Articles State: Males develop the Deformity more often than Females. It seems to Develop on the Left Wing more Often..
Unless BOTH Wings are Affected..
Flight Feathers Stick Out and Fray Easily. Just Looks like Something is Wrong..
This Wing Deformity usually Prevents Flight.
The Condition is Generally Deadly for Young Birds/Waterfowl in the Wild. They are Left behind by their Parents.
Unable to Fly from Danger, they are Easy Prey..
If the Wild/Feral Cygnets can not Leave when it is Time for them to Head-off ( Fledge ) in the Late Winter the Parents may Kill them.
This Wing Joint (Wrist) Sags/Twisting Outward in Young Birds.. as they are GROWING their First Primary Wing Feathers. They are Growing so Rapidly..
When Swan Cygnets are appx. 60 to 75 Days Old their FIRST Primary Wing Feathers are about to Develop..
In Swan Cygnets, the Angel Wing Typically begins when their FIRST Primary Flight Feathers are Growing due to their Weight.
Start to Watch at 10 Weeks of Age.. It will be Noticeable by 12 – 16 Weeks.
It is Felt the Weight of the Growing Primary Blood Feathers cause the Distal-Primary Section (Wing Tip) to Sag Outward instead of Lying Normally against the Body.
This Sagging puts a Strain on the Joint’s Developing Ligaments and Muscles.
The Cygnet’s Fragile Bone Structure is not Strong Enough to Support the Weight of the New Primary Flight Feather which are Heavy with Blood. (Blood Feathers)
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If the Cygnets Wings are in Normal Position by 5 – 6 Months, there is a Good Chance this Deformity will NOT Develop.
A Beautiful Mute Swan Cygnet Wing – Healthy – Normal !!!
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A Nice Summary of Information about Angel Wing is here..
AS You Read this Article.. REMEMBER Swans need a LOWER PROTEIN DIET.. 6 – 8 Percent.. VERY DIFFERENT then a Duck’s Diet.
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“IF” Angel Wing is Corrected while the Cygnet is still Growing, it has a Chance to be Set Right.
If Attention to the Sagging Wing is Delayed until the Cygnets are Older, then the Deformity will likely be Permanent.
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People Unfamiliar with this Deformity, who Observe an Affected Swan on a Pond, Lake or Waterway.. OFTEN think this is a Broken Wing.
Reporting this to the WRONG People can be Fatal for an Otherwise Healthy Swan..living in a Public Captive Setting.. “Angel Wing” Waterfowl in Captive Care Generally do Ok..
It is Possible for a Wing Injured or Broken to have a Similar Look.. Look for any Sign of Trauma – Blood or the Whole Wing Dragging. Ask if the Swan has been like this before or was it Normal before.
These Images are of a Mute Cob that had Perfect Wings.. before he was Injured.
His Left Wing had to be Removed to Save his Life.
Photos can be VERY Helpful to Evaluate Waterfowl. This Mature Cob’s Wings were Perfect before he was Injured.
To Rescue ANY Waterfowl is Challenging.
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Observe the Primary Feathers, are they Shabby, Frayed.. ??? Is the Cygnet/Swan Eating and Behaving Normally ??? Then “Angel Wing” is more Likely the Reason..
Before CALLING for HELP …. Or Before a Visit to an Avian Veterinarian.. SEND a Photo or Photos to a Knowledgeable Person..
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For a Nicer Look and to Help the Swans be more Comfortable, the Feathers that are Out of Place can be Clipped AFTER their Annual Moult..
>>> ONLY After the Blood has Atrophied from the Feather Shafts..
This Young Rescued Male Mute Swan.. had a Grade 2 – Medium Angel Wing. The Feathers were in Sad Shape.. He was Clipped to Help his Appearance.
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GRADING ANGEL WING DEFORMITIES.
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This Young Trumpeter Cygnet’s Wing is Grade 3 – Severe. He has Learned to Live with this in an Almost Wild Environment. He gets Support from the Lake Community. He Swims and Walks – Unable to Fly.
****************************************** Suspicions and Theories.
Various Studies over the Years “Suggest” Angel Wing May be the Result of a Genetic Weakness ???
It is Common for Annual Broods from the Same Pair of Swans to Exhibit the Deformity.. A Genetic Weakness.. ??
And/Or a Diet Too High in Carbohydrates ( Bread ) and Protein and Too Low in Various Vitamins and Minerals.. like Calcium, Selenium Deficiency, etc.. are Contributing Factors.
Please do not Feed Quanities of Bread to Birds, including Waterfowl. Small Amounts of Fresh Whole Grain Bread during the Winter Months may Generate Energy for Warmth.. Small Amounts of Plain Cereals like Cheerios are Good Treats.
An Example List from One Article.. High Protein Diet, Hypovitaminosis D, Manganese Deficiency, Vitamin E Deficiency, Genetic Factors, Excessive Growth Rate, Restricted Exercise , Incorrect Incubation, Hatching Problems, Trauma, Weight of Blood-Filled Growing Primary Feathers. (UGH) !!
Most Articles DO came back to the Importance of a Good Nutrient Balanced Diet.. All Creatures Great and Small Benefit from an Appropriate Diet..
Having a High Calorie/High Protein Diet is Felt to Contribute to the Angel Wing Deformity During the Time the First Wing Feathers are Growing In..
IF Cygnets are Getting a Rich Diet the Primary Feathers “MAY” become HEAVY and Twist the Wrist Joints Tendons Outward..
This Deformity Begins when Cygnets are Between 50 to 110 Days Old.. After that the Wings should be Safe from Developing Angel Wing. Unless they have a Genetic Weakness..
It is Advised to Avoid the High Protein Pellets Until the Primary Feathers are in and the Wings are OK..
Swan Cygnets DO Need a High Protein Diet their First 2 Weeks.. After that their Diet should become More and More Plant Based.
Most Commercial Poultry Feeds have Vitamins (esp. Vit A, E, B-Complexes) BUT, they are High in Protein.. Too High Out of the Bag for Swans. Mixed with Corn – helps Reduce Protein to a Safer Level..
The Mazuri and Poultry Pellets.. are TOO HIGH in Protein.. that is Why it is Important to Mix with Corn to Lower the Protein Value.. But, Corn is High in Starch.. Calories..
Supplying Start-n-Grow to Newly Hatched Cygnets is OK for the First Two Weeks. Then Taper it Off.
In the Summer on a Body of Water where there are Plenty of Natural Plants Cygnets will Naturally Balance their Diet..
This way the Cygnets will Eat Bugs and Slugs and Worms and TadPoles, etc.
Lots of Green Pond Plants, DuckWeed, most Algae.. are GOOD.
A Diet of Only Corn will lack Vitamin A, as well as other Vitamins and Minerals Necessary for Good Health..
We Share Lots of Vegetables with Our Swans.. ESPECIALLY, Carrots.. for Vitamin A..
Carrots SINK – Place in Shallow Water.
Give them “a Little” Food or Treats.. so you can Visit with them.. To Check that they are Ok.. NO Injuries or Fishing Line Tangles.
Swans Love some of the Natural Lawn Weeds.. ( No Herbicides ) Clover, Dandelions, Fresh Cut Grass Tossed out on the Water.
Avoid Thistles.. or Thorny Plants.. Lettuce is Good, it is LOW in Calories and High in Fiber.. A Head of Lettuce becomes a Toy.. “Lett-Us” Play..
Romaine Lettuce has more Vitamins.. Shredded Carrots are GREAT for Vitamin A.. Often Deficient in a Variety of Waterfowl Ailments..
Slices of Apple, Watermelon, Salad Greens, Green Peppers, Sliced Cucumbers, Kale, Squash, Zucchini, Broccoli,etc. NO Onions or Garlic.. or Mushrooms.. Nope..
Save the Pellet Feed and Corn for the Winter Months when there is NO Natural Cafeteria for them…
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SUPPORTIVE TREATMENT: Wrapping or Taping..
If you Think about Support Taping or Wrapping a Wing Tip Close to the Body.. It is BEST to Ask for Guidance from a Professional..
Try Gentle – Intermittent Support NO MORE then a Week.. DO NOT PUT the Birds in/on any Large Body of Water. Until you take the Wrap/Taping Off.. Keep them in a Safe Place..
Start with 2 Days.. then Remove Wrap to Allow the Wing some Time to Move Freely.. Wait 4-6 Hours before ReWrapping.
Many Saggy Wing Tips will Benefit from a Few Days with this Extra Support.
The Elastic, Self-Adhesive Vetwrap is Great for this.
Wrap the Tape around the Metacarpals (Hand) and the Radius/Ulna (Primary), so that it is held in a Normal folded Position.
Some Folks Support the Sagging Wing with a Bandanna Tied around the Body.
DO NOT Use DUCK TAPE.. it is TOO STICKY…
I have Used Painters Tape to Hold Wound Dressing in Place. It Sticks to Itself.. but NOT to Feathers and Skin..
Wrapping TOO Tight or TOO Long MAY Constrict Blood Vessels which WILL Alter Feather Growth and Even Affecting Bone Growth.
For Juvenile and Adult Swans with a Severe Angel Wing, Surgical Pinioning of the Affected Wing may be an Appropriate Treatment where the Wing Tip and Feathers are being Damaged.
I have Observed a Few Adult Swans with a Few Wing Feathers that became Misaligned where they were Pinioned.. These were just a Bit out of Order – No Problem.
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Watch for this Wing Sagging as your Cygnets are Growing. You Might be Able to Help..
We Brought Little “Hannah” into our Lives when she was 10 Months Old.
Our Little “Hannah” came from a Farm of Very Poor Care.. She had a Very Minor Wing Tip Twist. Just “a Little Angel Wing.”
She Matured into a Very Sweet “Maiden” Swan..
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I have Observed more “Angel Wing Deformities” then I have Worked with them.
I do know a BackYard Domestic Waterfowl Rescuer that has Successfully Corrected Ducklings Wings, that Start to Develop “Angel Wing Deformity.”
I have Done Lots of Reading along the Way. Which has Contributed Greatly to my “Basic Understanding” of this Waterfowl Syndrome..
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I SO WISH I Could Find this Article ONLine Again.. It has been Taken Down.. BUT, I am Posting this FYI.. Just as I Found this Article… Copied into my Notes..
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Debra Bourne.. in this Outline Summary.. has Included the Many POSSIBLE Contributing Factors that “Might” Result in the Development of Angel-Wing.
**********READ this FYI… Angel Wing is NOT a Simple Topic..
Water Fowl Angel Wing – GENERAL INFORMATION Disease Author Debra Bourne
Summary Disease WATERFOWL Deformity developing during growth, resulting in one or both wings sticking out from the body.
Disease Type Miscellaneous / Metabolic / Multifactorial High protein diet, hypovitaminosis D, manganese deficiency, vitamin E deficiency, genetic factors, excessive growth rate, restricted exercise, incorrect incubation, hatching problems, trauma, weight of blood-filled growing primary feathers.
Physical agents Accommodation construction Calorie/protein intake excessive Daylength-incorrect /abnormal Restriction of normal movement Temperature-high ambient
Non-Infectious Agent associated with the Disease Manganese-deficiency Protein (Dietary)-excess Vitamin D-deficiency Vitamin E – deficiency
Detailed Clinical and Pathological Characteristics General WATERFOWL Deformity of one or both wings in which the affected limb turns outwards and the bird is unable to fly.
WATERFOWL One or both wings initially droops and later turns outwards. The condition is permanent if not corrected in the early stages. The left wing is more commonly affected than the right wing. Initially becomes apparent while the flight feathers are growing, with the weight of the primary feathers appearing to be too great for the carpal joint muscles, leading to drooping of the wing tip. Primary flight feathers may become damaged. Extension of the wing may allow a return of the carpometacarpus to normal orientation; examination may show a slight (e.g. less than five degrees) decrease in range of motion of the wing. Affected birds are unable to fly.
Progressive lateral (outward) rotation of the distal carpometacarpus; third and fourth metacarpals involved, with displacement of the distal bone laterally. Proximal portion of metacarpals may appear normal, with rotation developing distally. Articulation of distal metacarpus with the first phalanx of the third digit is normal but malpositioned. Sometimes slippage of the propatagial tendon over the carpal area. Development of the condition appears to begin when the primary flight feathers are growing.
Mortality /Morbidity WATERFOWL Not life-threatening in a sheltered situation, such as in a captive collection or on a park lake where safe roost sites (e.g. islands) are present. In the wild an affected bird, being unable to fly, would be unlikely to survive.
General information on Susceptibility / Transmission WATERFOWL Transmission: Thought to be related to excessively fast growth in relatively slow-growing temperate and tropical species.
Overfeeding, both a too-high protein diet and too-high energy diet is thought to be important, and a relative vitamin E deficiency (too low for the high growth rate) has also been suggested as being relevant.
Canada geese fed high protein levels (20%) developed the condition more frequently than those fed lower protein diets (J1.20.w6).
A possible role of incorrect incubation conditions and/or hatching problems has also been suggested. Mechanical damage to the wing may precipitate the problem in some cases. Susceptibility: Angel wing has been reported more commonly in geese and swans than in ducks. Temperate and tropical, naturally slower-growing, species appear more susceptible. Slipped wing has not been reported in species which breed in the high Arctic and have naturally very high growth rates.
The possibility of genetic predisposition has also been considered. Domestic breeds, which have been bred for rapid weight gain, appear more susceptible. Males may be more susceptible than females. The reason for the disproportionate occurrence affecting the left wing is unknown.
Disease has been reported in either the wild or in captivity in:
General Information on Environmental Factors/Events and Seasonality Environmental factors which may predispose to the development of slipped wing include:
Long lighting periods provided for tropical and temperate- breeding species (by providing excessive time for eating).
Small enclosures, either absolute or in relation to the number of birds being reared (insufficient room for exercise).
Excessively high temperatures during rearing (energy not being used to keep warm, therefore more energy available for growth).
Regions/Countries where the Infectious Agent or Disease has been recorded UK, Sweden, Switzerland, Australia, USA
WATERFOWL Diagnosis is by clinical examination. Radiographic examination may confirm a bone deformity.
Related Techniques History and Documentation Similar Diseases (Differential Diagnosis) WATERFOWL Broken wing (wing droops). May be seen in association with Calcium / Phosphorus / Vitamin D Imbalance, Manganese Deficiency, Vitamin E / Selenium deficiency.
General Nursing and Surgical Techniques – WATERFOWL Taping/Supporting the feathers up to the wing for several days (three to seven days) may be effective in early cases. Taping must be removed after a maximum of seven days to allow for wing growth. The level of protein in the diet should be decreased and exercise encouraged. Cosmetic and sometimes flight-worthy correction may be achieved surgically by osteotomy, insertion of an intramedullary pin into the radial metacarpus and realignment of the distal limb (see: Surgical Correction of Angel Wing. Pinioning of the affected wing may be an appropriate treatment where the wing tip is being damaged (see: Pinioning- Adult).
Environmental and Population Control Measures General Environment Changes, Cleaning and Disinfection WATERFOWL Avoid excessive growth rates, particularly of temperate and tropical species. Restrict protein level to e.g. 16-19%. Never use turkey grower crumbs (may be 26-28% protein).
If using crumbs with relatively high protein level, ensure diet includes substantial amounts of other, low-protein items e.g. greenfoods such as grass, lettuce.
Encourage exercise: give sufficient room for movement. Food and water bowls may be kept apart to encourage movement between them. Restrict Day length for low-latitude species: use brooder lamps which do not give off light for lower-latitude species.
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If I had a Magic Wand ! I Would FIX ALL their Wings..
July 18th, 2020 | Posted by LadyNerkle1 in PREENing is Feather Care - (Comments Off on SWANs PREEN – a Vital – Essential Task.)
Preening is One of a Swan’s Daily Activities.
Caring for their Plumage – WaterProofing their Feathers. This Includes keeping External Parasite Numbers Low.
And Preening Together is an Important Part of a Swan’s Social Life. It is a Sign of Acceptance..
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I have Often Wondered.. “How do Swans Stay SO White” ? ? They are often in Water that is Less then Clear, but Muddy.
Swans are Elegantly Dressed with OverLapping Rows of 25,000 Plus Feathers..
Preening is a BIG Job.
Preening is a Natural Instinct..
Tiny Cygnets less then a Few Hours Old.. will Preen.. Here, there and Everywhere..
Cygnets Hatched by an Incubator.. Will PREEN !!
Fresh Out of their Egg Shell.. Cygnets are Wet.. They Start to BREATH Air, Rest a Bit, Imprint with their Dam and Sire. Dry and Fluff their Down..and PREEN..
In Less then 24 Hours Healthy Cygnets are Ready for Life in Water. All Cygnets should be out on the Water within 72 Hours of Hatching.
Before they Leave the Nest.. their WaterProofing must be Satisfactory.
The Parent Swans will Start the Cygnets in Shallow Water and Check their WaterProofing.
If their WaterProofing is Poor.. the Tiny Cygnets will become Wet and Chill Easily.. Soggy Cygnets are at Risk..
Cygnets are Unable to Thermo-Regulate for about a Month..
It is Impressive without Hands all the Areas they are Able to Reach..
Their Long Neck is Flexible to allow the Swans to Spread the Waxy Oil from their Head and Beak to all their Body Feathers..
Some of the Twisting and Stretching is Amusing..
Watching Two or Three Preening Together.. You would think there is a Special Order to be Followed.. They tend to Preen in what Appears to be the a Rehearsed Order..
When their Preening Session is about to End.. It is Time to Shake – Twist and Flap their Wing..
This Settles ALL their Body and Wing Feathers into Proper Order.
The Fast Twist Side to Side helps Fluff the Feathers OUT to Capture Air and Layer the Feather in a Neat Order..
Several BIG Forceful Wing Flaps helps to Layer all the Wing Feathers into Perfect Overlapping Order.
It is NORMAL for Swans to Preen an Average of TWO Hours a Day. This is the MOST Important thing they do to Care for their Feathers.
I will admit it gets Boring watching them Preen Endlessly while we are there to Visit. I have Watched Countless Hours of Preening.
The Useful Life Expectancy of a Feather is One Year.. For 12 Months, Feathers Serve to Protect their Swan..
Swan Feathers are a Beautiful Costume of White, Covering a Swan from their Cheeks to Ankles..
Feathers Protect the Swans from Heat and Cold.. Wind, Rain, Snow, Hail.. (Small Hail will Bounce off).
Properly WaterProofed,
Feathers Prevent the Insulating Down from becoming Wet..
WaterProofed Feathers Allow Swans/Waterfowl to Float High in/on the Water.
Water SHOULD Bead and Run off Easily..
Occasionally – Take Note of the Water Beading..
This makes Gliding through Water Look Effortless.
Worn-Frayed and Broken Feathers will not WaterProof Well..
As Time goes on, Worn Feathers will Collect Mineral from the Water.. Their Pristine White will begin to Dull to Shades of Beige. The Large Flight Feathers start to Look Spiky..
The Swan’s Head does the MOST Preening..Rubbing.
The Tiny Head Feathers become WORN.. If there is Iron in the Water..
The Dissolved Iron Attaches to these Worn Feathers.. and Creates a “Red Cap” – “Red Crown.” The Iron Deposits are Exposed to Air.. and Rust.
Another Time there is a Bit of Extra Preening is When the Pen is Feathering her Nest..
There is a “Brood Patch” on her Breast that she will Preen-Shedding some Smaller Contour Feathers for Soft Material to Cradle her Big Eggs..
“Brood Patch” Summary: By Shedding Contour Feathers from her Breast-Abdomen into the Nest.. the Patch of Thinner Feathers Allows her Body Heat to Transfer to the Incubating-Developing Eggs..
Swans tend to do Most of their Pooping in the Water. Bathing and Much Preening is also done in the Water.
Swans Pick a Spot, maybe two, where they will Preen almost every Day.
These Spots will become MESSY ! ! .. Lots of Feathers and Poop.
I tried to Rake this Yuck up once a Week.. Its Unattractive – Attracts Flies. Take a Quick Look at the Poop.. Watch for Anything Moving.. Swans can get Round Worms .. Tape Worms.. Internal Parasites.
Consider taking a Fresh Fecal Sample to your Veterinarian’s Clinic for an Ova & Parasite Check.. Once a Year.. DeWorming your Swans as Needed is Beneficial.
During the Annual Moult..this Area will Look like a Pillow Exploded.. Raking Twice a Week.. is a Good Idea..
Humans Shed Skin and Hair in Small Amounts Every Day..
NOT sure when.. Swans do Shed their Beak, Legs and Feet Skin. Just like a Reptile – Lizard Skin..
Young Cygnets Shed more then Once their First Year – I think.. And at least Once a Year after that.. ?? maybe more.. Not Sure. I did not Watch the Timing of this.. I just Noticed it along the Way..
This Allow for a Slow Repair of Old Injuries and Worn Scaly Skin over Time..
Their Shedding is a left over from WAY Back when they were Lizards.. Look Closely at their Leg Skin.. Looks Reptilian..
It is not Scales like a Snake.. but, very much like Lizard Skin.
Genetically, Birds are more like Lizards – Reptiles then Mammals.. Evolution has Changed the Way they Look and Function.. Enchanting Creatures of Air and Water..
Hummm…. I See the Resemblance to Dinosaurs I have Seen in Museums.
Ask a Paleontologist familiar with the Phylogeny of Vertebrates and they will tell you that Birds (Avians) are Dinosaurs.
Using proper Terminology, Birds are Avian Dinosaurs; Strange as it may sound, Birds are Technically considered Reptiles.
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When Touching a Swan Try NOT to have Fresh Hand Lotion on your Hands..
Swans will Preen this Lotion through their Feathers and Disrupt their WaterProofing.
Spilled OIL or Chemicals that Float on their Water can Impair their WaterProofing.
We are Not Able to Identify what “Harry” had gotten Into.. He was Greasy. He was more “Dirty Harry” then “Prince Harry.”
All Kinds of Oil, Food Grade and Motor Oils Might Float into their Environment.
Old French Fry Oil was being Dumped into the River.
The Oil Floated into a Shallow Quite Area Along the Bank.
One Morning we Found the Swan Family Swimming in this Discarded Oil.
It might be Necessary to Wash (ROOM TEMP Water) with Dawn Soap to Remove any Oily Film..
This will REMOVE Much of their Natural WaterProofing. It may take Several Weeks for the WaterProofing to allow Water to Bead Again..
Most Ponds do have a Period of Time.. when there is a Slimy-Foamy-Decaying Plant Scum that will Attach on the Swan’s Body at the Water Line..
Be Aware.. that this is not Something Else that might have Contaminated the Water.
When Swans are Kept OUT of the Water and Do NOT Get Wet/Bathe. They will Preen Less and Less.. Slowly Losing their WaterProofing.
This Happens when Put in a Barn/Shelter for the Winter. Or Sheltered to Keep Dry after an Injury.. While Recovering..
When a Swan has Surgery and has Bandaged Wounds.. they Need to be Kept Dry. Try to Mist them Several Times a Day with a Spray Bottle of Water to Encourage Preening.
Needing to Keeping our Male Clean and Basically Dry.. I Sponged him Every Other Day with Water and Washed his Bottom.
This Young Cygnet had Surgery to Remove a Snapping Turtle Damaged Toe. Due to Blood and Weight Loss – His WaterProofing Suffered.
Under Preening may Result in Preening Oils not being Produced. Which will Cause your Waterfowl/Swans to becoming Chilled when Wet and MAY Lead to Water Aversion.
SWANs NEED to Get Wet to Encourage Preening.. Even a Gentle Rinse with a Hose or a Wet Sponge or a Spray Bottle..
Protect Any Body Area that Needs to Remain Dry..
“Meadow’s” Foot is Wrapped with Clean Paper Towels and a Plastic Bag. Watching him Dance and Play in the Sprinkler Water was a Happy Moment. His Damaged Foot Recovery was Long and Challenging.. SOOoo Worth it.
“MEADOW”
“Meadow” Turned 10 Years Old – July 15, 2019. Happy Hatchday !
Over Preening can be a Sign of Increased Numbers of External Parasites.
All Birds and Waterfowl have Lice..an External Parasite. A Small Population is Normal in their Feathers.. There are as many Species of Lice as there are Species of Birds.
Lice (Louse) are Blood Sucking External Parasites. High Numbers of Lice will Cause Anemia. Note a Pale Tongue.
Bathing and Preening keeps the Numbers Low..
An Increase of the Lice can Happen when Swans are Not Getting to Bathe in Water that is Reasonably Clean.. Refreshed.. This can Occur During a Period of Drought.
Or if they are Kept Inside a Shelter for Extended Periods without Access to Water to Bathe in.
If your Swan has a Pale Tongue it is Suggesting Anemia.. > > > > Check for Parasites. An Infestation if External Lice in their Feathers is the First to Check…
Look into their Down Under their Wings.. Where there are Fewer Feathers.. Watch for Tiny Dark Scurrying Spots. They are the Size of Cracked Pepper.. Image Below is Enlarged.
You can Try to Catch a Lice Sample by using Sticky Tape..
If Swans live on a Property where there are Cattle that are Not being Treated for Cattle Lice.. these Parasite Lice may Spread to the Swans.. or other Waterfowl..
Most Lice are TINY Blood Sucking Parasites.. Small Numbers.. Healthy Swans.. Little Problem.. Large Numbers.. can cause Anemia.. Weakening your Swans..
Watch for any Over Preening.. Really Digging into their Feathers..
Look at some of the Feathers on the Ground with a Magnifying Glass.. Check the Quill/Shaft for Tiny Whitish Eggs..
One Treatment We have used – a Dilute Peppermint Oil Spray.. Several Drops in a Pint of Fresh Water. SHAKE WELL !
Spray Under the Swan’s Wings.. and Down their Back. Avoid their Eyes and Beak.
They will Preen this through their Feathers.. It does not Kill the Lice.. Lice do not like the Peppermint Oil.. and Jump Off.. Repeat in 5 – 7 Days if Needed.
I have Used these ORGANIC Flea and Tick Sprays.. CHECK the Ingredients.. Make SURE ALL ORGANIC OILS.
FLY-X is an Organic Commercial Spray to Repel FLYs. This Would Probably Also Work..
Your Veterinarian will have other Remedies.. if these Simple Organic Oil Products do not Help.
The Soggy Cygnet below.. was Rescued. Lots of TLC.. He is now an Adorable Healthy Black Australian Pet Swans.
“Wet Feather” – Poor WaterProofing.. There are a Number of Conditions that can cause this.
A Lack of Preening Oils may Cause “Wet Feather” Preen/Oil Gland Problems. Poor Diet.. Post Illness.. Post Surgery. Post Severe Injury when the Body needs to Heal and ReGain Weight..
When a Swan has a Poor Diet.. or Is Not in Healthy Body Status.. After a Nasty Injury.. while their Body is Healing..
There may be a lack of the Essential Oils and Vitamins needed to Produce Normal Amounts of Preening Oil.
“Wet Feather” is Characterized by “Raggedy” looking Feathers and also an inability to Repel Water. The Swans look Unkempt..
Feathers get Waterlogged and Stay Soggy Wet after the Swans get Out of the Water. There is Little to No Water Beading.
One Tiny Cygnet in this Brood had Poor WaterProofing.. It Did not Survive.
Becoming VERY Soggy Wet Swans may have Trouble Staying Afloat.. You will see them Floating Lower in the Water then Normal.
The Added Water Weight may Prevent them Climbing out of the Water..
This Happened to “Handsome Fellow.”
Severe Weight Loss after his Wing was Shredded.. Then Hours of Surgery.. Blood Loss.. His Body was Depleted..
After Weeks of Recovery Time, we Released him to a Pond.. I could see he was Swimming Lower and Lower in the Water..
He could NOT get out of the Pond himself.. Fortunately, he came to me to Help Lift him OUT.. He was Like a Soggy MOP.
When the Swan’s WaterProofing is Poor, they Chill Easily.. They are WET all the Way to their Skin..
It take Hours for them to Dry..
This is VERY Dangerous for them during Cold Weather.
Diet.. It is Helpful for Swans to have a Little Oil in their Diet.. Especially during the Winter Months. Adding a Tablespoon of Salad Oil to their Daily Feed Mixture may be Helpful..
Adding Black Strap Molasses to their Feed can Add Vitamins and Nutrients that might help. ??? We have not used this.. Small Amounts until Condition Improves.
Blackstrap Molasses is the most Concentrated Form of Molasses. It Contains the most Vitamins and Assorted Minerals. Some Sources say that it has many Health Benefits.
When it is Best to Hand Raise Cygnets.. Away from their Parents.
When Hand Raising Cygnets.. Regular Bath Time is Important.
Young Cygnets need to be on Soft Ground – Grass to Protect their Feet.. In a Muddy/Dirt Living Area, Dirt gets into their Feathers and Down. This will Interfere with Healthy Preening and WaterPoofing.
There MAY be Increased External Parasite Infestations.. > > >Anemia.
Swan Cygnets need to get Wet to Encourage Preening..
Providing the Young Cygnets with Plenty of Clean Water to Splash in and Keep their Bedding Clean and Dry.
So Cute… All the Pond Waterfowl are Preening Together !
Our “Pond Princess” – Little “Hannah” was Likely Raised without Access to Water.. We Bid and Won her at an Exotic LiveStock Auction.
10 Months Old, she was Scared and SOOooo Dirty.. Swan Care was ALL so New for us at that Time..
I Rinsed her Several Time that first Evening in a Large Tub in our Garage..
LOTs of Dirt Rinsed into the Clean Cold Water.. I had a VERY Wet Cygnet. Towel Dried.. Kept her Safe OverNight.
When we Released “Hannah” to the Pond the Next Morning..
She Bolted Across the Pond and OUT onto the Golf Course Greens. She was Terrified of Us and the Water.. We /I had Much to Learn.. ONE: That this Young Swan had Likely Never been in Water…
Fortunately our Male, “Handsome Fellow” Knew what to do. He Guided “Hannah” to the Clean Shallow Inflow Area of the Pond.
“Handsome” Kept her Safe in the Shallow Water as her WaterProofing Gradually Improved over Two – Three Weeks..
It was Interesting to Observe him Caring for her.. The Swans have Taught us Much over the Years..
If you Need to keep a Swan Dry during Recovery after an Injury or Post-Surgery..
Depending on the Time of Year.. The Veterinarian Instruction may be to Leave the Wound Open to the Air..
A Little Water Time is Important.. So they Preen..
First Cover the Wound Area with a Clean Paper Towel… then Cover with a Plastic Bag or Saran Wrap, etc..
I like Painter’s Masking Tape.. It Sticks to the Plastic.. NOT the Skin. If the Paper Towel Gets Wet.. STOP -Try Again to Keep Dry..
Try to Gently Spray their Feathers Twice a Day.. So they Preen.. Spray and Clean their Cloaca Area..
This Stimulates the Preening Gland and the Swans will PREEN.
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For Any Waterfowl.. their Beak is VERY Important.
For Eating, Communicating/Vocalizing, Breathing and for Preening..
An Injury to the Beak that makes Preening Difficult needs to be Watched Closely..
Snapping Turtles do Terrible Damage to Waterfowl Beaks.
If the Injury Prevents Adequate Cleaning and Preening.. This will Affect the Swan’s Health..
Snapping Turtle Injuries to Swan Beaks are TOO Common..
If an Injury is Severe, it is Difficult to Know the Best Thing to do.. Many Vets will Advise what they Know or Foresee – Prognosis…
Some Injuries.. Will Need Veterinary Attention.. If the Beak Heals without an Infection.. Be Grateful.
Snaggy Areas along the Beak might need to be Smoothed.. Infections in the Beak Structure Tissues will be Difficult to Treat.
WATCH from Insect Maggots.. Common in Fresh Open Wounds. Flush them Out.. Watch Until this Stops.. Check with Your Vet.
If the Beak’s Damage Prevents a Swan from Eating or Preening.. Their Future and yours will be Very Difficult..
It may be Worth Giving Nature a Chance to Heal.. The Swan will NEED Extra TLC.. … and More than a Few Prayers Answered. A Lot will Depend on the Damage and a Swan’s Will..
I can not Imagine the Pain Initially that this Swan Experience. After the First few Days – Hope they can Stabilize..
If they can Drink, Eat and Maintain a Reasonably Healthy Weight. And Gradually Preen to WaterProof Adequately..
They have a Guarded Chance. Watch for Shivering during Cold Weather.. They may need Sheltering.
Attempts have been Made to Add a Prosthetic Material to Several Badly Damaged Swan Beaks. As Time goes on this May Work Better. To Date, Few have been Successful.. Folks are Learning.
Removing Snapping Turtles will Reduce the Risk of Beak Injuries.
MUD – MUD – Dissolved Dirt in their Habitat.. I Still Marvel..
TO END.. “HOW do SWANs Stay SO WHITE ???” They PREEN..
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&& Information Compiled from Observing Swans over the Years. Yes, Reading has been Informative.. Gathering Data.. And Experiences of Others.. We All Learn Together. (C) Linda M.Sweger UpDated May 2021 &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
