WORLDWIDE THERE ARE SEVEN SPECIES OF SWANS
The REGAL Swan Foundation.
The WorldWide Loss of Swans
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THIS PAGE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION..
Author Archives: LadyNerkle1
There are Seven Species of Swans
March 13th, 2017 | Posted by in There are Seven Species of Swans - (Comments Off on There are Seven Species of Swans)MOONShine Madness
March 12th, 2017 | Posted by in MOONShine Madness - (Comments Off on MOONShine Madness)** ALCOHOL is Toxic to Birds..
Alcohol Depresses the Organ Systems of Birds
and CAN be Fatal.
MOONShine Madness
Making Feed Moonshine.
To Enlarge Images – Right Click Image then Open in a New Tab.
Are You Unknowingly Brewing “Moonshine Mash” ?
I have followed the General Feed Instructions Below,
NOT Questioning Why ??..
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GENERAL Label/Tag Instructions for using
Commercial Animal/Live Stock Feeds.
>>> Dry Feed: Change Daily..
>>> Wet Feed Mixtures: Change Daily
When Temperature is 65 Degrees or Less.
Change Wet Feed Mixtures every 12 Hours when the Temperature
is Higher then 65 Degrees.
Change Immediately if you SEE any Bubbles.
“WHY???” Would Swans like the Wet Feed Mixture
after it Sits and is Bubbling ????
The Swans LIKE it because it is Sweeter
as the Starch Breaks Down and Alcohol FORMs.
The Mixture is Developing into “Moonshine Mash.”
TO QUOTE Chuck Miller
from the Discovery TV Show “MoonShiners” :
“And this is how we make the Moonshine.”
How to Make Moonshine Mash
http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Moonshine-Mash
Moonshine Mash is a Fermented Mixture or Slurry of Ingredients,
principally Corn, Sugar, Water and Yeast, that are Distilled to produce
High-Proof Drinking Alcohol, also known as Moonshine or White Whiskey.
While Distilled Alcohol can be made from a variety of Grains,
Moonshine is most often associated with a Corn Based Mash.
This is left to Ferments at 80 Degrees for an Average of 7-10 Days.
MoonShiners use 50 LB Bags of Corn, Wheat, Rye, Poultry and Horse Feeds
Plus Sugar and Yeast in their Mash Recipes to make “MoonShine.”
Different Grains create different Flavors.
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POULTRY Feed Ingredients are Ground Grains and Plant Proteins.
Adding Warm Water to Poultry Feed.. Allowing this to Dissolve
into a Slurry of Starch and Protein, Bacteria and Yeast in the Environment
will Start to Breakdown and FERMENT this Mixture Creating Grain Alcohol.
The Wet Feed Ferments easily at Temperatures of 80+ Degrees
for an Average of 7-10 Days.
The Backyard Bacteria and Yeast Strains are UNKNOWN.
There are Strains of Environmental Bacteria, Molds, and Yeasts
that have TOXIC Secretions.
I spoke with the Feed Division Technical Service Southern States Corp.
1 (804) 281-1430 They Agreed, commenting that MoonShiners
Buy Animal Feeds to make Moonshine.
In the Normal use of their Commercial Feeds for Animals and Poultry,
they Worry most about the Molds that Occur in Hot, Humid Weather.
MoonShiners control their Mash Mixture by adding Known Strains of Yeast.
They add LARGE Amounts of Sugar to Increase the Alcohol that will be FERMENTED.
As the Alcohol Content Increases it Kills Off the Bacteria.. and finally the Yeast.
Without this Extra Sugar there will be Alcohol forming just not as much.
More like Beer. But, not enough to Kill the Bacteria, Mold or Yeast..
The Break Down of the Proteins in the Feed Mixture is just as Unsafe, FORMing Toxins..
No Different then the Concerns we have for “Food Poisoning” when leaving Meats
Out at Room Temperatures for more then two Hours.
***Ptomaine Poisoning is from Alkaloids
> > > > Found in Decaying Animal and Vegetable Matter.
This is especially Important when it’s HOT Outside:
“Bacteria Grows Rapidly at Room Temperature, BUT it Grows even Faster
when the Weather is between 90°F and 110°F,”
says Elisabeth Hagen, MD, U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA)
The Risk of Clostridium botulinum – Clostridium perfringens -Bacillus cereus
Growing in Wet Stagnate Pond Water Increases in Warm Weather.
These Pathogenic Bacteria are found everywhere.. Their Toxins are Lethal.
These Anaerobic Bacteria may/will Grow in the Bottom of the Wet Feed Mixture.
Botulinum Toxin is the most Acutely Lethal Toxin known.
We lost one Precious Female Swan to Clostridiim Botulism.. Heartbreaking.
She was Eating Flies near a Vegetable Compost Pile.
There are Dangerous Pathogenic Organisms in most Place.
A Few Organisms.. can “Grow” into a Lethal Mixture.
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Yeasts and Molds are found in all Environments.
Birds can contract Diseases from inhaling Mold/Fungus Spores.
Yeast Populations in their Gizzard and Digestive Tract can cause
a Wide Variety of Health Problem: Bloating, Poor Digestion,
Toxins that effect their Immune System..
A Heavy Growth can Obstruct the Bowel.. Death.
SWANs are VERY Susceptible to Heavy Metal Poisoning.
ADD Fermenting Feed to a Rusting Metal Pan = Iron Poisoning.
AUTO-BREWERY Syndrome
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto-brewery_syndrome
Auto-Brewery Syndrome, is a Rare Medical Condition in which Intoxicating Quantities
of Ethanol are produced through Endogenous Fermentation within
the Digestive System.
One Gastrointestinal Organism, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, a type of Yeast,
has been identified as a Pathogen for this condition.
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Various MoonShine Recipes..
http://www.coppermoonshinestills.com/id28.html
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It was Interesting Researching all this..
for a Good Cause.. Healthy Swans.
This Information is a Work in Progress…..
As I Learn more I will Add to this Information..
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Compiled by (C) L.M.Sweger UpDated JUNE 2021
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Mute Swans – Royals
March 8th, 2017 | Posted by in Mute Swans - Royals - (Comments Off on Mute Swans – Royals)ROYAL MUTE SWANS
ROYAL MUTE SWANs.. Cygnus olor
The Graceful, Elegant Waterfowl of the European Royalty..
Click Images to Enlarge 
Mature Royal Mute Swans have Deep Orange-Red Beaks,
Dark Grey to Almost Black Legs and Webbed Feet..
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Royal Mute Cygnets have Smoky Grey Down when they Hatch.
Their Beaks, Legs and Feet are almost Black.. 
The Darker Colors help them Blend into the Water
Environment they Typically Live on.. 
The Dark Color may Help Protect a few Tiny Fuzzy Cygnets from the Aerial Predators..
The Creamy White Polish Cygnets are Easy to See.
The Images Below are a Chronology Series of their Growth..
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Within Less the 24 Hours the Healthy Cygnets are Ready to Swim.
Both Parents Check that their Cygnet is WaterProofed. 
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Each Day the Cygnets will Spend more Time on the Water.
They Also will have Several Time to Rest and Nap.. So Cute. 
When the Parents feel they no Longer need the Nest.. They Leave.
Life for these Tiny Swan Cygnets will be Full of Adventures..
and Perils. 
Swan Cygnets are “Precocial.”
Precocial refers to Bird Species in which the Young are Relatively Mature and Mobile
from the Moment of Hatching. 
They are “The “Ugly Duckling” of Danish Author,
Hans Christian Andersen Children’s Story.
I Think they are So VERY Cute ! 
Some Cygnets need to be Hand Raised to have a Chance to Survive.
The Swans are EASIER to Care for when they are on their Water.
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Cute Little Black Feet and Beaks.. Royals. 
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Swan Cygnets GROW So Fast.. Visually Changing Every Day.
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Each Little Cygnet has their Own Personality.
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It is Time for True Feathers to Start Emerging. And some Funny Looks.
So Cute… 
A Mix of Down and Emerging True Feathers.
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YEP ! There are Tiny Wing Feathers Coming in.. 
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If Cygnets Survive the Perils of Summer to 13 Weeks,
They have a Reasonable Chance to Grow to be Adults. 
Living on Open Water with their Parent is Best for them.
Their Parents are Teaching them from the Day they Hatch.
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Swan Cygnets that are Hand Raised have Many Instincts that are Common to all of their Kind.
Innate Behaviors do not have to be Learned or Practiced.
It is Time to Start Looking for New Homes for the Cygnets.
Look at the Feather Change in 20 Days.. 
They “Feathered Out” and Ever SO Cute !
During their First Winter the New White Feathers blend with their
Beige Grey-Brown Feather – They Look like Dirty Snow.
Good Camouflage.. 
9 Months Old. His Parent will Start to Chase him off in Later Winter.
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12 Months – One Year Old – Now a Juvenile. 
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She is about 5 Years Old.
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This Mute Cob lived to be 30 Years Old. Miss Him.
“Life itself is the Most Wonderful Fairy Tale.” -Hans Christian Andersen
Photo Images Compiled by L.M.Sweger . . . UpDated May 2021
Mute Swans Annual Moult
October 2nd, 2016 | Posted by in Mute Swans Annual Moult - (Comments Off on Mute Swans Annual Moult) Once a Year Swans will Moult Replacing all 25,000 of their Feathers.
Collectively their Feathers are called Plumage.
Moulting is the Periodic Replacement of Feathers by Shedding Old Feathers
while Producing New Ones.
To Enlarge Images – Right Click Image then Open in a New Tab.
MOULTING – English Spelling
MOLTING – American Spelling
Feathers are Dead Structures at Maturity which are Gradually Abraded.
In May as the Cobs are Patrolling there are Slight Signs of Spiky Feathers.
Wear and Tear during the Year.. Daily Preening..
Feathers Need to be Renewed.
Generally All Healthy Birds Moult at Least One a Year.
You will KNOW it is Time when you See FEATHERs
> > > > LOTs of FEATHERs..
It is Good to Understand the Moulting Process your Swans go through.
Especially for Swan Owners who NEED to Clip a Swan to Keep it Grounded.
Swans become Flightless during their Annual “Wing Moult.”
In Healthy Swans, the Moulting Occurs after the Nesting Season.
The Mute Pens Typically Start their Moult Two Weeks after her Cygnets Hatch.
Or if NO Eggs Hatch – Two Weeks after she Starts to EAT !!
Regaining her Lost Weight.. seems to Stimulate the Pen’s Moult.
The Cobs will Show the Signs of Worn, Spiky Primary Wing Feathers.
His Moult Generally begins Five to Six Weeks after the Nest is Closed.
It is a Gradual Process – Birds Do Not Shed all their Feathers at One Time.
We will be Raking a Good Size Bag of Shed Feathers Weekly.
This Feather Shedding Process will Occurs in Many Phases.
The Areas of Feathers that are Shed Varies.
Shedding is Generally Symmetrical, with Feather Loss Even
on each Side of the Body.
Birds/Waterfowl/Swans must Retain Sufficient Feathers to Regulate
their Body Temperature and Repel Moisture.
During the Winter Months, Swans will Briskly “Shake” their Plumage
Capturing Air into the Fluffy Down Feathers.. to Insulate themselves.
Worn Feathers are Less Able to WaterProof and Insulate.
You can See the Fine Fraying of this Cobs Primary Wing Feathers.
Waterfowl NEED to have Good WaterProofing so they FLOAT !
And so they do not Get Wet into their Skin for Insulation..
IF Swans/Cygnets Lose their WaterProofing they GET WET ! !
You will see them Shivering in Cold Pond Water.
Healthy WaterProofing Aids the Insulation that Keeps Swans
Warm in the Cold Winter Months.
It takes an Average 4-6 Weeks to Renew all their Worn Feathers.
During the Moulting Periods, Swans Renew Feathers on their Head, Neck and Body,
Shedding the Wing and Tail Feathers during Slightly Later Moulting Period.
More and More Feathers are on the Ground where the Swans Preen.
It is Late June and the Cob below is Starting to Moult.
Three Weeks Later, the same Cob, most of his Primary Flight Feathers are Missing.
Bald Spots are Typically Signs of Unrelated Illnesses,
such as Gross Injuries, External Parasites.
As Swans Begin to Shed their Older Worn Feathers,
the Tiny Pin Feathers Start to Emerge through the Skin.
The Tip of the Pin Feathers Break Open for the Full Feathers to Grow-in.
When our Young Cygnets were getting their First True Feathers,
We could Feel the Pin Feather Down in their Fluffy Down..
You will See the Cygnets and Swans Bite at the Itchy Pin Feathers as they Emerged.
I Noticed Tiny White Dandruff on the Ground.
The Cygnets were Nipping OFF the Ends of the Pin Feathers.
Feathers make up a Percentage of a Swans Body Weight.
Estimates for a Mature Mute Swan about One Pound of their Weight is Plumage.
It takes a Large Amount of Energy to Replace All their Feathers.
A Healthy Diet is Important.
If a Swan has Lost Weight due to a Poor Diet, Illness or Injury,
their Moult is often Delayed or Poorly Staggered.
This Rescued Black Australian Cob was Severely Under Weight.. His Moult was Stalled.
After Three Months and a Steady Weight Gain his Plumage Improved.
The Rescued Juvenile below was UnderWeight.. After Gaining Weight she Moulted in October.
Once they are able to Gain a few Healthy Pounds their Moult will Resume.
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During a Royal Mute Cygnet’s First Winter, their Smoky Grey-Brown Feather
will Slowly be Replaced by more and more White Feather.
I am Not Sure if this is Considered Moulting ??
There are Feathers Shed.. (See Above) as More and More White Feathers Appear.
This 9 Month Old Royal Mute Cygnet Still has a few Beige Bands in his Wings..
These will Remain until the First Full Summer Moult.
Swans will do a FULL Moult of all 25,000 Feathers in June-July-August.
You will find their First Primary Flight Feathers with the Pretty Earth Tones laying around.
I Miss the Pretty Feather Patterns of the Royal Mute Cygnets.
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Mute Swan Red-Head – Red Crown – Iron Stains.
Swans use their Beak and Head to do most of their Preening.
The Tiny Feathers on their Heads become Worn.
If there is Iron in their Pond Water, this Mineral Attaches to these Feathers.
Air Interacts with the Iron Particles and Rust Forms.
This Rusty Cap will be Renewed to a Clean White during their Annual Moult.
As their Feathers Wear, they Stain more Easily.
It is Easy to Spot their Large Primary Flight Feathers.
Their Preening Site is a Messy Place.. A Weekly Raking to Remove this is Wise.
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Their Moult may Start at Slightly Different Times Annually.
This Female had a VERY Late Nesting due to Flooding.. A Third Clutch of Eggs.
Her Moult was DELAYED until Late July – Two Weeks After Nesting Ended..
It Helps to Understand the Timing of Moulting in Relationship to Nesting.
If you Need to Clip your Swans.. Start to Watch the Stages of Moulting.
Their Preening Area will Look like a Pillow Exploded.
Females Generally Moult in June – Males in July.
Nature Timed the Adults’ Moult so the Female-Dam would be Grounded with her Tiny Cygnets.
The Females Generally Begin their Moult TWO Weeks after Nesting Ends.
The Male-Sire Remains Full-Feathered so he is still able to Flog to Protect his Family.
As the Female’s Primary Flight Feathers are Growing in the Male will Start his Moult.
This way they are Not Both Grounded at the Same Time.
Our “Handsome Fellow” was Rescued One Year before this Image.
He had to have his Left Wing Completely Removed.. Long Recovery.
We were just Learning about Swans.. Big Learning Curve.
I do not Remember him Moulting that Year.. He had Severe Weight Loss.
You May Observe your Swans Pulling their Wing Feathers OUT !
I was Sitting Near our Cob while he PULLED his Larger Wing Feather OUT !
POP – POP – POP !
Both the Pens and Cobs have their “Shabby” Stage..
If you LOOK Closely at the Left Wing Below.. you can See Pink Feather Straws.
If your Swans are Pinioned,
there will Only be Primary Flight Feathers from One Wing.
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As the New Pin Feathers Emerge they are “Itchy.”
Swans will Spend more Time Preening – Biting Deep into their Thick Down.
It is Time for the NEW PLUMAGE !
“Pin Feathers” – “Blood Feathers” are the Developing New Feathers.
These Pin – Blood Feathers Grow as the First True Feather of Young Cygnets.
The Same Process of Pin – Blood Feathers will Replace Feathers during their Annual Moult.
THE LARGER NEW FEATHERS ARE the BLOOD FEATHERS.
The Pin – Blood Feather looks like a Pink Straws.
At this Stage the Pink Straws have a Blood Supply Flowing through it.
If Damaged, a Swan/Cygnet CAN Bleed Heavily. This NEEDs Immediate Attention.
The Large Primary Flight Feathers are Blood Feathers at this Stage.
As the Feather Shaft Grows Longer, the Blood Supply will be Seen
More in the Base of the Shaft – Quill.
The Tip of the Keratin Shaft Encases the Forming Feather.
As Swans/Cygnets Preen, they Nip-off the Keratin Tips and the Feathers Unfurls.
Many of the Larger Tail Feathers are Blood Feathers.
Remember Healthy Cobs and the Pens will Moult at Different Times.
About 4 Weeks Apart.
If a Swan has a Poor Diet, is Underweight, their Moult may be Delayed.
Swans Typically Lose a Pound of Body Weight
with the Loss and Regrowth of their Feathers.
Good Nutrition will Help Keep your Swans Healthy.
Also, the Pens Need to Replace the Weight they Lost Laying their Clutch of Eggs.
> > A Broken Blood Feather can Result in Serious Bleeding. < <
During this Time Take EXTRA Care when Catching or Transporting your Swans.
These Blood Filled Feathers MAY be Broken in Transport Crates – Pet Carriers.
DO NOT Release a Swan with ANY Bleeding Feathers to your Pond.
IF NECESSARY: PULL any BLEEDING FEATHERs ! !
( In a Few Weeks these Will Regrow. )
Hold the Skin-Tissue with your Fingers of One Hand
to Keep the Skin from Tearing.
Firmly – Slowly Pull the Broken, Bleeding Feather Straight OUT.
Use Needle Nose Pliers if it is Too Short to Grip.
The Blood Vessels in the Feather’s Shaft will Start to Atrophy
once the Feathers have Fully Grown-in.
Once the Larger Blood Feathers are Completely Developed,
the Blood Vessels Atrophy.. Leaving a Hollow, WHITE Channel in the Feather Shafts.
If Broken or Cut at this Stage, these Feather will NOT Bleed.
When the Blood Supply has Atrophied, the term “Blood Feather” is No Longer Used.
If your Swans is Full-Winged and Needs to be Clipped Annually
this is when you Need to Start Watching for your Opportunity.
DO NOT Cut any Pink or Purple Area of a Feather
– Only where the Feather Shaft is White.
The Topic Page Link Below will Explain Clipping.
Clipping Captive Swan Pets to Keep them Grounded.
CLIPPING Captive Swan Pets >>PLEASE READ COMPLETE PAGE.
https://swanlovers.net/category/clipping-captive-swan-pets/
There is a Short Period of Time
when the Feathers are NOT Stiff Enough to Allow Flight.
Such Beautiful Creatures.
With ALL the Beauty that Nature Shares with Us..
These Moments can be the Hardest to Bare.
I NEVER want these Magic Moments to End..
For Several Months the Swan’s Appearance is Enchanting White.
Every Feather may be Perfect.
I am Adding this Information at the End: I Read this in One Article about Moulting.
Artificial Lights at Night can Affect the Moult of Birds.
I Read that a Single 40 Watt Light Bulb at the End of a 1000 Foot Field
can Alter the Timing.
Natural Lighting is DARK at Night.
Their Body’s Cycle through Daily Hormone Changes..
Natural Darkness at Night help with this Process..
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A Non-Invasive Method of Studying the Moult of Swans is Photography.
This Information is a Work in Progress…..
As I learn more I will add to this Information..
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Compiled by (C) L.M.Sweger UpDated May 2022
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Basic Mute Swans Anatomy
October 2nd, 2016 | Posted by in Basic Mute Swan Anatomy - (Comments Off on Basic Mute Swans Anatomy)Enchanting, Elegant, Graceful, Majestic Mute Swans.
Basic Anatomy Information.
This Page is Labeled Photos of General Swan Features.
Basic Anatomy of Mute Swans
Click to Enlarge
Mute Swan Cob
Mute Swan Pen
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From: knowledgerush search: Mute Swan
Common Name Mute Swans – Tame Swans
Binomial Name – Cygnus olor
Kingdom Animalia
Phylum Chordata
Class Aves
Order Anseriformes
Family Anatidae WaterFowl
Genus Cygnus
Species olor
Mute Swan – Cygnus olor
Mute Swan Cob
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In the United Kingdom the Knob is often Called “The Berry.”
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Below – The Cob’s Beak is Peeling like a Thin Shed..
Yes, Swans do this .. How many times a Year.. I am not Sure.
You will see their Legs Shed also.
An Evolutionary Leftover from when Birds were Lizards.
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Swans have a Dense Skin on their Beaks..
Feels like Velvet. It can be Scratched and get Infected..
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Avian – Swan Body Temperatures have a Wide Range
that is Related to their Activity.
IF you Need to Go to the Vets.. this might be Helpful..
Swan have a Higher Normal Body Temp then Human..
And their Temp will Vary by their Activity or Stress Level..
Like us, Birds are Warm Blooded, which means their Bodies
maintain a Constant Temperature, often around 104-106 degrees Fahrenheit.
Core Temperature in Birds Ranges between 34 and 44 °C
Birds Body Temperature Range is usually 39-43 degrees C (102-109 F)
Mean Levels of Body Temperatures (Tb) for all Birds are:
( Resting/ Active Phase/ High Activity )
( 102 to 103 F / 104 to 106 F / 107 to 109 F )
They have Ranges According to their Activity Level..
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I Found only a Few Actual Bits of Data for Mute Swans Specifically.
Normal Ranges are Noted as Resting or Active..
Thermoneutral – Resting > > 39.5 degrees C – 103.1 degrees F
Active – Stress > > 41.1 degrees C. – 105.98 degrees F.
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Swan’s Eyes are on the Sides of their Head.
They are Prey Birds.. and Need a Wide Visual Field to see Danger.
Unfortunately, this Limits their Forward Vision.
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The Lamellae along the Beak helps the Swans Cut Plant Leaves and Grass.
Swans have Very Little Bite Pressure.
In ALL the Years I have been Working with Swans,
I have Never had a Bite that Cut or Punctured my Skin.
At Most their Bite is more of a Pinch.
In the Photo Above
Our Little Female was Playfully Untying my Husband’s Boot Lace.
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The Cygnets Nails will Become Black as they Grow.
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ATTENTION ALL SWAN CARETAKERS
LOOK Closely at the Images Below ! !
This NOT Normal Anatomy !!!
This is an UNDER TONGUE IMPACTION !!!
Do YOUR BEST to REMOVE these Wads of Dirt and Fibers.
( Original ) < I USED Computer Editing to Remove the Impaction from Image. > ( Edited )
With a Team to Help, We DID Catch this Swan and Remove the Under Tongue Impaction.
Under Tongue-Chin Impaction
https://swanlovers.net/category/under-tongue-chin-impaction/
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Now to their Legs and Feet – BIG FEET.
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Identifying Leg Bands Should be Not be Too Tight and Stay on this Section of their Leg.
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In the Images Above and Below.
This Young Cygnet’s Feet are Showing Signs of Too Much Time on Hard Surfaces.
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The Foot and Leg Skin of a Swan Looks like a Reptile. There are NO Scales. 
This Skin Periodically Sheds the Same as a Lizards or Snakes.
The Webbing Between their Toes is Very Flexible.
The Pale Webbing is from a Polish Mute Swan Foot.
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The Mature Mute Cob Below Weighed over 30 Pounds.
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SHE has a VERY Large Knob…
The Size of the Mute Swan’s Knob is not a Reliable Way
to Determine their Sex….
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A Swan’s Esophagus is Located along the Right Side of their Neck. 
You can watch the Food they Swallow Slide Down the Right Side. 
I am going to Include the Following Series of Images Here.
Because this was a Worry until I Understood what I was Seeing.
We were Visiting with our Swans – Lots of Greens, Vegetables and Treats.
Our Cob was Eating VERY Fast.. Loving the Goodies.
When he Stopped Eating.. He was Floating Quietly out on the Pond.
I Noticed this Swollen Area on his Neck.. and Wanted to Panic !
Good Grief WHAT was Wrong with his NECK !
It was Mid-Afternoon on a Sunday, NO Hope of Taking him to a Vet.
Once Home, I Started a Search for Swan Crops.. NOTHING.
Crop: A Pouch in the Esophagus used to Store Food Temporarily
before moving it on to the Stomach.
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Waterfowl DO NOT Possess a True “Crop.”
Instead, their Esophagus is Capable of Expanding
to Accommodate Substantial Amounts of Food.
These Young Cygnets were EATING their Lettuce SO FAST..
And we would See the Right Side of their Necks FULL of Lettuce.
SWANs are Grazers Normally Nibbling throughout the Day.
BUT, WHEN they “Pig-OUT” you may see this Pouching on their Lower Right Neck.
IF You See this and it does NOT Go Away..
Suspect your Swan Swallowed SOMETHING that is NOT Digestible..
THEN be CONCERNED.
Swans can have Obstructions due to Swallowing Trash.
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WING JOINTs – WRIST – ELBOW – Shoulder
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“RUSTY RED CROWN”
Swans use their Beak and Head to do most of their Preening.
The Tiny Feathers on their Heads become Worn.
If there is Iron in their Pond Water, this Mineral attaches to these Feathers.
Air interacts with the Iron Particles and Rust forms.
This Rusty Cap will be Renewed to a Clean White during their Annual Moult.
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We Rescued the Swan Above.. he was Under Weight in this Photo.
And Recovering from having his Left Wing Amputated..
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Healthy Swans Spend around Two Hours a Day Preening their Feathers.
If you get a Chance now and then – Check the Color of your Swans Tongue.
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This Information is a Work in Progress…..
As I learn more I will add to this information..
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Compiled by (C) L.M.Sweger UpDated May 2022
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Pulling A Feather to Stop Bleeding
September 14th, 2016 | Posted by in Pulling a Feather to STOP Bleeding - (Comments Off on Pulling A Feather to Stop Bleeding) IF A SWAN or CYGNETS is Injured.. Attacked…
IF a BLOOD FEATHER IS BROKEN… BLEEDING,
Take Action As Soon As Possible.
ANY Bleeding Needs Immediate Attention.
PULLING A FEATHER TO STOP THE BLEEDING
Click Images to Enlarge
THIS is a Work in Progress – the Full Text will Follow.
Clipping Captive Swan Pets
September 4th, 2016 | Posted by in Clipping Captive Swan Pets - (Comments Off on Clipping Captive Swan Pets) IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP YOUR
FULL WING SWANs and CYGNETs GROUNDED.
Prevent Your Beautiful Swans from Flying Away.
Click on Images to Enlarge
Clipping Captive Swan Pets
IF YOUR SWANs and CYGNETs are Pinioned
you Never Need to DO THIS !!!
Adult Swans that were NOT Pinioned are Generally Capable of Flying
unless they are Clipped to keep them Grounded.
PREVENT YOUR YOUNG UNPINIONED CYGNETs
from LEARNING TO FLY.
The Cygnet above Hatched in the Wild, was Injured and we Rescued.
Cygnets are Capable of Flight once their Wing Feathers
are Fully Developed – around 15-16 Weeks Old.
This will differ when Cygnets are Not Feed a Good Diet.
It Helps to Record the Date Cygnets Hatch..
Clipping is NOT as Effective as a Proper Pinioning..
*****
*****
Our Young Rescued Cygnet did NOT learn to Fly.
In 2022 Our Male-Cob is 13 Years Old… He has Never Flown.
We have not Clipped him after the First Two Years.
He does NOT Know he can Fly..
There is a Risk that One Day he Might Surprise himself.. and Us.
****************************
The Rescued Cygnet Above was NOT Pinioned or Clipped…
He DID Learn to Fly.. Grounding will be More Challenging.
He Knows the Freedom of Flight. The Risk he will Fly will Always be there.
It will be Safest to Clip any Swan that has Learned to Fly Annually.
*******************************************************
DISCLAIMER
If you have ANY Doubt about Clipping yourself,
Check with your Veterinarian who Works with Birds
and see if they will Help you at least the First Time.
( ASK Your Avian Vet to READ this Topic Page.)
Unfortunately, I am Learning that Many Veterinarians want to Clip
the Swans the same way they Clip House Birds.. NOT Effective.
The Blunt Cut below is for House Birds.. NOT for Swans..
I am Adding the Image Below.. It is Important to KNOW the Feathers.
Learn the Names of the Wing Feathers.. You will NEED this Information.
************
I will Not Assume Any Responsibility if you Do Not Read and Understand
ALL these Instructions or do Not Take the Time to Fully Understand Wing Anatomy..
or Understand the RISK of Cutting into a Blood Feathers.
This Young Swan DID NOT Survive the Blood Loss.
The Person who did this
had NO IDEA what they were Doing !
I Got a Call After this Cutting of Primary Wing Feathers was Done !
I BEGGED the Owner to take this Cygnet to a Veterinarian..
After 2-3 Days of Waiting for the Bleeding to Stop, he was Surrendered to us !
We Immediately took this Cygnet to a Veterinarian to Try to Save him.
His Blood Loss was Too Great.. He Died..
This was the WORST Attempt to Clip/Pinion I have been Aware of.
*****************************************************
***CLIPPING WINGs – Safe, if done Very Carefully.
The Goal is to keep the Swan/Cygnet off Balance when they Try to Fly..
He made me NERVOUS… But, it Worked…. ! ! ! 
Clipping is a NON-Surgical Alternative to Surgically Pinioning
the Primary Flight Feather Section on ONE Wing.
This Method only Lasts until Flight Feathers are Replaced
during the Swan’s Annual Moult.
Every Time he Tries to Fly, he Spins to the Left… Left Wing is Clipped.
And the Instinct to Fly is Strong during their First Summer.
*****
After Numerous Attempts to Get off the Ground..
..our Cygnet Finally Stopped Trying. I was Holding my BREATH !!!
*****
If your New Swan is Full Wing, which is Common with Rescued Swans,
and they DID Learn to Fly, it will be Safest to CLIP them Annually.
If you are Acquiring a Full Wing Swan from a Rescue Group.. CLIP !
Most Rescue Groups are Reluctant to CLIP…
They Adopt the Rescued Swans to Folks New to Swan Care..
and Several Hours or Days after these Swans are on their Ponds..
The Rescued Swans Fly Away.. and they are “In Peril” Again.
I Hear this Story of Anguish TOO OFTEN..
Clipping Feathers does not Trigger New Primary Flight Feathers to Grow.
A Feather that is Pulled will Regrow.
Ideally you will be Clipping/Cutting (5-7) Primary Flight Feathers
above the level of the Primary Coverts, so almost the entire Feather is removed,
leaving about 2-3 inches of Shaft still visible beyond the Skin Follicle.
Looking from the UNDERSIDE of the Wing:
If there is any Pink-Purple in the Feather Shaft, it would be Safer
to Cut/Clip 6-8 Primary Flight Feather on One Wing Short of any Coloration…
One Swan Owner said, she Used a Flash Light to Shine Through the Feathers.
This Make it Easy to See any Coloration Inside the Shaft..
Great Ideas.. Thanks K.H.M.
ONLY Cut where the Shaft is White..
CLIP One Feather at a Time.. and WATCH for Any Bleeding..
(STOP if you See ANY BLOOD.)
Do what is Necessary to STOP ANY Bleeding.
Wait for the Feather Shafts to turn Opaque
-Maybe One to Three Weeks, then Cut/Clip 5-7 of the Flight Feathers Shorter.
*****
If you Acquire New Swans or Cygnets that are still Full-Wing,
Clipping or Pulling Primary Flight Feathers can be useful
until you Arrange to have a Veterinarian Surgically Pinion your Cygnets/Swans.
FULL WINGS will Look the Same Left and Right.
If you have a New Swan and you are NOT SURE if they are Pinioned.. ??
The Link Below will Help you Visually “See” if the Wings are Full or Pinioned.
PINIONED or FULL Wing
https://swanlovers.net/category/pinioned-or-full-wing/
Proper Clipping will Prevent MOST of them from
“Taking to Air” and Flying Away ! !
*****
NOT All Methods of Clipping will Work for Swans/Cygnets.
Methods for Clipping House Birds and Ducks are DIFFERENT.
Proper Clipping is Effective until the NEXT Moult..
This was my First Clipping – AFTER doing a LOT of Reading.
He kept Trying for about Two Weeks.. Kept Spinning Out.. Eventually Quit.
Clipping will Not Stop Your Swan from Trying to Fly.
They may Still Run and Flap and Keep Trying.. (Hold Your Breath)
**************************************************************
Pulled Feathers will GROW BACK in about 4-6 Weeks.
This can also give you Time to send Samples for DNA-Sex Testing.
Make sure you can Identify Individual Cygnets/Swans
when submitting Multiple DNA Samples.
Assorted Sizes and Multi-Colors Cable Ties
can be Found at Most Hardware Supply Stores.
DO NOT SEND the Cut Primary Wing Feathers for DNA Testing.
Feathers to send for DNA Testing must be freshly pulled from the Birds’ Skin.
Check the Information about DNA-Sex Testing on this Page.
Determine the Sex of Swans by DNA
https://swanlovers.net/category/determine-the-sex-of-swans-cygnets-by-dna/
5 – 6 Body Contour Feathers from the Breast Area are a Good Sample.
The Testing Lab needs the Tissue Material inside the Quill of a Live Feather
for their DNA-Sex Testing.
Shed, Moulted or Cut Feathers do not have this Live Tissue.
**********************************************************
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Study a Diagram of a Bird’s Wing and learn the Names
of the Different Wing Feathers and their Location.
*****
*****
If you have a Cygnet/Swan with Clipped Wings, Watch for their Moult to Start.
You will think a Feather Pillow Exploded.
The Very Large Flight Feathers Falling Out will be a BIG Clue.
Swans go into a “Shabby Stage.”
You may see the Thick Feather Shafts of the Old Clipped Feathers
on the Ground or Floating on the Pond.
Female and Male Swans Moult at Different, Slightly Over- Lapping Times.
It will take Several Weeks for the New Primary Flight Feathers to Grow in.
They will Need to become Firm before the Swan is able to Fly..
This Firming only takes a Week to 10 Days.
A Flock of Swans will be Moulting at Slightly Different Time..
PICTURE SERIES of a Male Mute Swan’s Annual Moult.
These are the Visual Stages to Watch for.
A Normal Moult Time for a Healthy Mute Cob – July.
Male Mute Swan Generally Start to Moult in July….
The Annual Moult is to Replace Worn Plumage.
Mute Swans Annual Moult
https://swanlovers.net/category/mute-swans-annual-moult/
Swans are Flightless During their Moult.
Look Closer – New Feathers are Emerging ! 
WATCH for THESE Stages of Moulting.
Blood Feathers are Mainly in the Wings and Tail. 
*****
*****
NO PINK or Purple Visible
THIS IS THE TIME TO BE READY TO CLIP….
You will have about 10 – 14 Days to Take Action.
The Beautiful New Plumage of a Mute Cob.
It is TIME TO Clip….
SWAN CATCHING IDEAs
https://swanlovers.net/category/swan-catching-ideas/
Whatever Way you are Able to Catch your Swans.. is Good.
Be Safe.
************************************
Clipping Feathers is Quick and Simple to do.
Pick an Area that has Good Lighting.
***Supplies to have On Hand For Clipping:
*** BEST to Work with TWO (2) PEOPLE
Swans are Difficult to Control Alone.
Keep Every One Calm.. Speak Softly to the Cygnet/Swan..
Reduce the Stress for All.. Panicking will NOT Help..
A Stressed Swan will do Open Mouth Breathing..
A Little Stress will be OK. Think Calm, Calm, Calm..
If it Helps, do a Run-Through with a Pillow, Pretending it is the Swan,
So Each Person knows what they will be Doing..
… and where to Place your Supplies.
One Person to Hold Cygnet/Swan with a *Large Bath Towel.
…AND One to CAREFULLY Clip/Cut the Flight Feathers.
When you are Ready, Gently Extend the Wing and Inspect the Feathers.
*** DO NOT HOLD
the Rib Cage Area of a Cygnet/Swan TOO Tight..
Swans NEED to Move their Ribs to Breathe.
If they can not Breathe, they will Struggle MORE !
***A Pair of *Blunt End Scissors that Cut a Drinking Straw Easily.
You do not want Dull Scissors, you want a Quick Smooth Cut.
Large Flight Feather Shafts are about as Tough as a Twig of the Same Size.
They are FIRM.
***A Sturdy Pair of Needle Nose Pliers
– (tweezers are not strong enough).
Just in case you need to Pull a Feather that Bleeds and will NOT STOP ! !
*** Read about Pulling a Blood Feather so you are Prepared.
The WebSite below is One of Several.
Foster and Smith PetEducation.com . . . Broken Blood Feathers
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=15+1912&aid=2691
***Clean Corn Starch (seems to be preferably) or (White) Flour.
IF a Feather Shaft BLEEDs.. STUFF this Clean White Powdery Material
into the Hollow Shaft. Hold the End Securely for 5-10 Minutes.
***WATCH it does not Start to Bleed Again.
Pushing Powdery Material into the Bleeding Feather Shaft
(Corn Starch – Flour – Wonder Dust – as a Last Resort Kwik Stop)
gives the Blood Tiny Particles to HELP Form a Clot.
No Matter what might cause a Bird/Swan to Bleed…
Keep the Bird/Swan as Calm as Possible.
The More a Bird Struggles the More it will Bleed.
BIRDS do NOT have Reserve Blood in their Body..
They are Streamlined for Flight.
ANY Bleeding for ANY Bird can become Serious VERY Fast.
*** You may not need these Things.. but, Good to have Ready.
A Small Pack of Q-Tips. Clean Paper Towels.
A Gallon of Clean Cold Water. A Small Bowl to Work from.
***A Working Surface at a Comfortable Height.
OR a Comfortable Washable Chair. (And Washable Shoes)
OR A Person Sitting on a Chair Holding a Wrapped Swan for Stability.
With a Large Bath Towel or Blanket Around Most of the Cygnet/Swan.
This will Control One Wing…and Both Feet.. Wrap their Toe Claws.
Toe Claws can Cut. I know > I had to go to Urgent Care for One Nasty Cut..
Getting Cut was My FAULT.. not the Swan’s.
***Your Avian Veterinarian’s Phone Number. ( Just in Case.)
***WONDER DUST***
Found at most Farm Supply Stores.. like Tractor Supply.
This will ALSO Help to Stop Bleeding – Plus it is Medicated.
WONDER DUST
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/farnam-wonder-dust-wound-powder-4-oz
OR AS a LAST RESORT TO STOP ANY BLEEDING
*** KWIK Stop*** as a LAST RESORT..
Found at Most Pet Supply Stores.
GREAT Care Must be Used to Prevent the Swans from Ingesting this Material.
It Quickly becomes Solid as a Stone..
and COULD become an Obstruction in a Swan’s Mouth or Throat.
***********************************************
Extending the Wing…
*** CHECK the Feathers you Plan to Clip Carefully.
There are 10 Primary Flight Feathers on Each Wing.
For a Nice Appearance – Skip the First 2 Primary Feathers (#9-#10)
Then Choose 5-6-7 from the Remaining 8 to Clip.
Below One Feather is Clipped in Stages to be Sure there was NO Bleeding.
YEAH ! – SUCCESS ! ! – I Knew YOU Could Do IT ! !
Next Year YOU will be more Confident.
*****************************************************
If you Need to Clip/Cut Very New Blood Feathers……
DO NOT CUT as Short, > > Trim a Few More Feathers > 7-8.
*** NEVER Cut into the Shaft Section-Area containing a Blood Supply.
The Quill is the Part of the Feather Shaft up Inside the Skin Follicle.
The Blood Vessel will Remain Active in the Quill Longer then in the Shaft.
For Several Weeks (varies) after Primary Wing Feathers Grow-in
there will be a Blood Supply Flowing through the Feather Shaft and Quill.
The Section of Feather Shaft Closest to the Quill will appear Pink or Slightly Purple.
***NEVER CUT FEATHERs
Where YOU SEE THIS Coloration.
***Shining a Flash Light Through the Feathers to Check for Pink or Purple..
This will be Very Helpful.
***ONLY CLIP/Cut the Shaft where it is Opaque White.
***CLIP/CUT ONE FEATHER AT A TIME…
***Watch for ANY Bleeding before Cutting another Feather.
*** DO NOT CLIP TOO SHORT... or Too Long either.
Clip/Cut just up under the Primary Covert Feathers
so the Cut Edge will be Covered. (Ideal)
At this Level the Risk of there being an Active Blood Supply in the Shaft
is much less then Closer to the Skin Follicle.
Plus, IF you would NEED to PULL a Bleeding Feather Shaft….
If you Cut TOO Close to the Skin Follicle, you will NOT have Much to Grasp
if you Need to Pull the Shaft/Quill to Stop Bleeding. 
***If you see Pink or Purple in the Shafts,
you MUST Clip/Cut the Feather Shafts Longer to Avoid Blood Vessels.
Leaving the Feather Longer then you might want.
***IF there are Blood Feather and you can not CLIP up under the Primary Covert Feathers….
Measure 1-1/2 to 2 Inches Back from the Pink-Purple Coloration
to where the Shaft is Opaque White.
You will want to Clip/Cut Across Several MORE Primaries (7-8).
This will Leave the Cut Edge Uncovered by the Primary Covert Feathers.
You will want to Clip these Feathers Shorter in Two to Three Weeks,
once the Blood Vessels have Atrophied, leaving more White Shaft.
The Goal is to keep the Swan/Cygnet OFF Balance when they try to Fly..
If Feather Stumps are Present Beyond the Lower Edge of the Primary Coverts
they May Irritate the Swan during Preening, causing Significant Discomfort.
The Cygnet/Swan may Chew and Tug at these Cut Shaft Ends
until they Pull them Out. Then a New Feather will Grow…( OH NO ! )
Remote – BUT Possible..
************************
*** THE BEST SPOT to CLIP – ( IDEAL is not always Possible.)
Cut the Primary Flight Feathers at the Point where the Feather Barbules begin
on the Shaft of the Primary Flight Feathers.
Leaving Few Barbules on the Shaft.
*** Leave the remaining Primary Feather Shaft and Quill in the Skin Follicle.
***(once trimmed up under the Primary Coverts)
There may be as much as 4-6 Inches of Feather Shaft remaining.
2-3 Inches of Round Semi-Hollow Opaque White Shaft
and 2-3 Inches of the Quill up inside the Skin Follicle.
The Quill is the Part of the Feather Shaft up inside the Skin Follicle.
************************
*** NEVER Clip/Trim Secondaries
It is sufficient to Clip FIVE Primary Flight Feathers
– One Wing Only.
To be Extra Sure.. Clip the Other Five Primary Feather
about Half Way. Keeping Off Balance is the Goal.
******************************************************
The Method of Clipping for Ducks is Different then for Swans…
It is Recommended that the Secondary Wing Feathers are Clipped.
IF a Swan’s Secondary Wing Feathers are Clipped.. they can still Fly.
Wing Clipping may appear to be an alternative to Pinioning,
but Wing Clipping is Not Always Reliable.
The Annual Moult may occur Earlier or Later then Anticipated.
You may MISS your chance to do this Annually.
Female and Male Swans do not Moult at the Same Time..
Generally about a Month Apart. The Females “Generally” Moult First..
and 3-4 Weeks Later the Male Swans will begin their Annual Moult.
A Swan in Poor Health may Moult over an Extended Period of Time…
when its Body does not have the Nutrients to Grow all New Feathers
in the Normal Moult Cycle.
A Swan that has Partially Re-grown New Flight Feathers may
be able to Fly Away for a Short Distance.
Wing Clipping may Create a “False Sense of Security.”
Clipped Swans, if Spooked, are still Capable of a Short, Powerful Burst of Flight.
A Properly done Clip only Trims the Feathers and not the Wings.
It is Painless and Temporary, lasting only until the next Moult.
Better to Clip Full-Wing Swans then Watch them Fly Away..
This Young Female is Grounded for Another Years..
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In the Past, to Preserve the Symmetric Beauty of both Swan Wings,
Swan Owners/Keepers might decide to Clip rather then Permanently
Deform their Swans by Pinioning.
Mute Swan NOT Pinioned
The HOPE was/is, if a Cygnet does not learn to Fly during their First
Two/Three Years they will not know how or try to Fly.
This may work with a Large Percentage of Swans..
Not 100%. There is a Risk.
Swans are Spectacular in Flight.. Breathtaking.
but, seeing them Fly AWAY is not.
*** Once Swans learn to Fly… all Bets are OFF.
They will know “the World is a Bigger Place” then their Pond.
All Swans will Play-Chase and Flap-Run across their Water…
But, in the FALL… when there are Stiff Cool Breezes..
or in the Spring when it is Time to look for Nesting Sites..
They get a “Glint in their Eyes”.. and want to Fly.
You can be Comforted that 5-7 mostly Missing Primary Flight Feathers
will keep your Swans Grounded. Clipping Works..
They can not get their balance.. and can not “Take to Air”..
Swans need the Exercise. It is Good for their Hearts to “Wing-Tip.”
Their Wing-Tips touch the Water Surface as they Flutter-Run..
Wing Tips on the Water
https://swanlovers.net/category/wing-tips-on-the-water/
I LOVE to see them do this.. They will often do this together..
Play-Chasing..
It happens so QUICK, my Camera is usually not ready.
Turn toward your Pond when you HEAR the Slapping of BIG Webbed Feet.
************************
*** There is a Physiological Component as well as a Psychological Component
when one considers how important Flight Feathers are to any Bird’s Safety and Life.
A Damaged Feather reduces Flight Efficiency and Interferes with Escape from Danger.
Birds/Swans Appear to be Quite Concerned about these Clipped “Half” Feathers.
************************
For Management of a Large Flock of Swans it may be Very Difficult
for a Keeper to Identify, Catch, and Clip each Swan at the Proper Time.
********************************************************
In SOME States,
the United States WildLife Department of Natural Resources
(WDNR) Regulations may Requiring Captive Mute Swans be Pinioned,
the Practice of Clipping may only be a Temporary Measure until you can Arrange
for your Swan to be Pinioned by a Qualified Avian Veterinarian.
This Requirement does vary by State.
Have this Information Ready when you are Preparing to have the
Swans/Cygnets Surgically Pinioned. Their DNA-Sex Test Result.
** Females > > Pinion the Right Wing.
** Males > > > Pinion the Left Wing.
*******************************************************
FROM JB “I was very pleasantly surprised at how easy
and relatively calm it was.”
This Information is a Work in Progress…..
As I learn more I will add to this information..
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Compiled by (C) L.M.Sweger – UpDated May 2022
Thanks to the Swan Folks who have Shared Photo Images.
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If you have ANY Questions, Please Contact me.. Thanks..
I am Always Happy to Share Information and Ideas.
Pinioning is Permanent
September 4th, 2016 | Posted by in Pinioning is Permanent - (Comments Off on Pinioning is Permanent)INFORMATION ABOUT PINIONING SWAN CYGNETS
PLEASE READ ENTIRE PAGE.
TO CUT PINION SAFELY
Permanently Ground SWAN CYGNETs 1 – 21 Days Old.
Around 2010 when I First Learned to Pinion..
the Recommendation was to Pinion by 10 Days Old.
By 2015 – 2016 I Developed a Safer Way.
I have Learned >>> Following the Procedure-Instructions Below
We can SAFELY Pinion Precious Cygnets up to 21 Days.
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I WISH this was not Necessary.
Seeing Mute Swans Living Wild and Free to Fly
is an Experience I will always Cherish.
CLICK Images to Enlarge
Since 2003-2004 the Legal Status of Mute Swans
in the United States has Drastically changed.
https://swanlovers.net/category/where-to-find-mute-swan-information-for-your-state/
IN a Number of States Captive Mute Swans are REQUIRED to be Pinioned.
ANY MUTE SWAN that becomes Feral in PA will not Survive Long.
This is Posted in the PA Hunting & Trapping Digest..
find attached Page.
There have NEVER been more then 100 Mute Swans living Feral in PA according
to the Mid-Summer Mute Swan Surveys
conducted by the Pennsylvania Game Commission in 2005 – 2008 – 2011.
> > > (MSMSS) These Surveys have been Discontinued in PA.
Working with and Learning about Mute Swans over the Years,
I have come to Terms with the Benefit of Pinioning Swan Cygnets.
Any Swan that leaves your Private Property and becomes Feral and Free,
WILL Pay Dearly. Few will Survive.
Most of the Young Mute Cygnets ( 8 to 12 Month Old ) that are Rescued in the Spring..
are JUST LUCKY that someone found them before the Hunters.
The RESPONSIBLE Thing to do is to Pinion Swan Cygnets
Find them Good Homes.. DO NOT Allow them to Fly Away.
A GROUNDED SWAN is a CAPTIVE PET.
PINIONING is PERMANENT
THE ACT OF AVIAN PINIONING
From Wikipedia
Pinioning is the Act of Surgically Removing a Section of Wing at the Pinion Joint.
The Wrist – Pinion Joint of a Bird’s Wing is Farthest from the Body.
To Prevent Flight, Pinioning is often done to Waterfowl and Poultry.
Pinioned Swans and Waterfowl may Walk Away from your Property.
Hopefully, you will have a Better Chance to Locate them if they are “On Foot.” 
PINIONING A SWAN CYGNET at 1-21 Days OLD.
Most Reading Sources Recommend this be done by 10 Days Old.
I have FOUND at 10-21 Days the Cygnets are EASIER to Handle.
Pinioning “should” only be done by a Trained Breeder-Person or Veterinarian.
For Those of you New to Swan Care… This may be a Challenge.
Few Veterinarians are Trained to Pinion.. Few are Willing.
>>> Check Your Area for an Exotic-Avian Veterinarian.
https://swanlovers.net/category/check-your-area-for-an-avian-veterinarian/
Before Sharing this Information with the Public at Large on this Site,
A Rescue Friend and I took Two Cygnets into our Swans’ Veterinarian’s Office.
I Asked Dr. L to Watch this Procedure and Check that I was Doing this Safely.
And to Suggest Any other Steps that Should be Included.
He Approved my Procedure.
Dr. L has Commented How Nice these Pinions Look when Healed. 
After doing this for a Number of Years….These Thoughts:
I have Pinioned Cygnets Up to 21 Days with NO Problems.
I Like that they are a Little Bigger and NOT so Fragile..
Opportunity is the Priority. CATCH the Cygnets when you CAN.
With this Important NOTE: Try to Give the Swans and Cygnets 48 Hours
for them to IMPRINT with Each Other before you Gather up the Cygnets.
The Swan Family NEEDs this Vital Imprinting Process to Occur.
Do Your Best to Leave the Swans and Cygnets Alone for their First 48 Hours. 
Have Your Supplies READY.. When it is Time for the Cygnets to Hatch.
Cygnets should Hatch 37 Days after the Pen starts to “Sit” Full Time.
It can be a Challenge to Catch the Swans and Cygnets once they Leave the Nest..
SO, PLAN Various Ways to Catch the Swan Family.. 
In the Image Above, the Parents have taken their Cygnets to a Small, Narrow Stream..
They did this for Several Days for their Cygnets to Enjoy ALL the Spring Insects.
We Made our Plans. One Try and Extra Hands.. and we Successfully Pinioned their Cygnets.
Every Pair of Adult Swans will Behave Differently.. NO Rules..
“IF” You Know What You are Doing.. you can Safely Pinion up to 21 Days.
IF you CAN NOT FIND Someone to HELP… Read this Information Carefully.
EVERY Thing you Need to Know is Here.. I have been as Detailed as Possible.
***** The Cygnet Below.. was Pinioned in about 5 Minutes ..Little Stress.
One Quick “SQUEAK,” there was NO Bleeding and NO Pain when Finished.
Wonder Duct Active Ingredient: Iodoform – 2.0%, Potassium – 5.0%,
Flowers of Sulfur – 2.0%, Tannic Acid – 2.0%, Activated Charcoal – 5.0%,
Copper Sulfate – 13.0%, Hydrated Lime – 71.0%
A Little Puff of Wonder Dust for a Final Touch.
> > > DO NOT REMOVE THE DENTAL TAPE !!!
> > > CHECK there is NO Bleeding before Putting the Cygnets back on Your Pond..
The First Time Pinioning, People are Afraid to PULL the Tape TIGHT..
REALLY TIGHT !! The Cygnet Should SQUEAL !
That is when they Bleed, when the Tape is NOT Tight Enough..
If your Cygnet Bleeds.. RE-Tie -PULL the Tape Tighter !
How much Blood can the Cygnets Safely Lose.. ?? Not Much..
I would be Guessing.. Each Day Old they are would be Different..
Their Size.. So many Factors.. As Little as Possible.
The Same Cygnet at Four Months Old.. 
AFTER 21 Days Old take ALL the Cygnets or Older Juveniles or Adult Swans
to Your Exotic-Avian Veterinarian to have them Pinioned.
Between 21 and 30 Days Solid Bone May Start to Form..
The Exact Day can not be Stated..
If you Cut through a Bone it will Bleed and be MORE Difficult to Stop.
Young Cygnets do not have EXTRA Blood. PREVENT BLEEDING !
SOOOooo….
After 21 Days of Age – Pinioning is Considered a Painful, Invasive Surgical Procedure.
It should NOT be done Outside of a Veterinary Office without appropriate Anesthesia,
Surgical Care, and Pain Medication. > > DONE Wrong – it can be FATAL.
DONE WRONG – Without Understanding “How” and “Why”
can result in serious Harm to your Tiny Cygnets.
The Cygnet Wings Above – it Appears ONLY the Alula was Removed..
NOPE – that is NOT the Portion that Should be REMOVED…
This 10 Month Old Cygnet was ABLE TO FLY !!
This Cygnet was Sold by a Farmer that DID NOT KNOW How to Pinion.
The Cygnet came Close to Learning to Fly… Short Hop & Drops..
The New Family Shared Photos when they Adopted him.
Seeing the Photos I COULD SEE Both Wings had Primary Feathers !
Clipping will be Necessary… to Keep him Grounded !!!
PINIONED or FULL Wing Learn to Visually Know..
https://swanlovers.net/category/pinioned-or-full-wing/
Learn how to Visually Tell if a Cygnet or Swans is Pinioned.. 
READ ALL this Topic Page. I have Many Examples and REPEATING Text.
If you know someone who knows How to Pinion.. ask for their Help.
BUT, Please Read this.. So YOU can Tell “IF” they do Know what to Do.
****************************************
For Your VERY First TIME.. Share the Experience – Extra Hands..
ASK Your Veterinarian to Come to your Pond and Help. Never Hurts to Ask.
OR: TAKE ONE CYGNET to your Avian Veterinarian and have Him or Her do this with you.
ASK your Veterinarian to READ this Topic Page..
Most Veterinarians have NEVER Pinioned Swan Cygnets.
Place this ONE Cygnet in a Container it can not ESCAPE from..
Keep the Cygnet Safe. Always CHECK the Carrier Door is Closed.
A SMALL Pet Carrier is Idea.. Line with NewsPaper or Old Toweling.
If your Veterinarian is not Familiar with doing a Pinion,
SHARE this LINK and Information with them.
Pinioning is Permanent
https://swanlovers.net/category/pinioning-is-permanent/
The MORE Swan Owners/Veterinarians who are willing to Pinion,
the MORE Cygnets and Swans will be SAVED from becoming Feral. Or Rogue.
The Swan Above was NOT Pinioned.
The Swan Below Both Wings were Pinioned. DO NOT PINION BOTH WINGs.
*****
The Cygnet Below was Properly Pinioned – Just One Wing – Alula Spared.
The Wing looks Very Nice with Alula Feathers Covering the Pinioned Joint.
The Wing Below was Cut Shorter then it Needed to be.
The Alula was not Spared.. NO Feathers to Cover the Cut-Butted Wing End.
This Swan’s Pinion is OK.. It just is not as Aesthetic..
*********************************************************
PREPARE AHEAD of TIME So you are READY to PINION your CYGNETs.
PLEASE READ ALL THIS INFORMATION
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING.
You will Need to have One or Two Helpers.
Have a Plan – all Pond Situations are Different.
Have Equipment and Supplies READY.
**************************************
THINGS to HAVE READY AHEAD of TIME.
A Sharp Pair of Blunt End Scissors – Be Sure they Cut Cleanly.
– Scrub them with Soap & Water – Leave in Open Position
– Sterilize by Boiling in 4 Quarts of Water 3-5 minutes.
Save the Cooled Boiled Water to RINSE Scissors between Cygnets.
Pour about 6 Ozs. of the Sterile Water into a VERY CLEAN Plastic Gallon Jug.
Shake to Spread Water inside Jug and Discard this Rinse.
Now Pour Remaining Boiled Sterile Water into Jug.
A Clean Dish Pan to Organize your Supplies in a Clean Place.
The Ground and Grass around a Pond has Lots of Dirt and Poop.
Several Old Bath Towels to put on your Lap – Cygnets will POOP.
It is Wise to Wear Shoes or Boots that can be Washed or Cleaned.
Several Old Wash Clothes – For Clean Ups.
Rubber or Plastic Food Handler’s Gloves if you Feel you Need them.
Roll of Paper Towels. > > CUT 50 3-4 Inch Squares – Put in ZipLoc Bag.
Use these Paper Towel Squares with the Alcohol to Clean Scissors
between Each Cygnets.. and to Check the Cut for any Oozing.
A Container of Wet Wipes are Nice to have.
A Bag for Trash. Collect ALL TRASH.
> > > WAXED DENTAL TAPE < < < X2 –
. . . . NOT Thin FLOSS – This will Cut the Skin.
Two Small Containers of IsoPropyl Alcohol. (One might Spill)
WONDER DUST – a Medicated Powder – Info Below.
> OR Clean Flour Small Container.
> OR Clean Corn Starch Small Container.
Empty Pill Containers are Useful.
KWIK-Stop Powder – TOO STOP Excess Bleeding.
I Put a Small Amount in a Different Small Container.
If the Main Container gets Damp.. the Powder will become Solid.
READ the Instructions for KWIK-Stop before Using.
Use VERY Sparingly.. A Tiny Touch will Do.
DO NOT ALLOW Cygnets to Ingest the KWIK-Stop Powder.
The Powder becomes VERY Hard when Damp – Stone Like.
It COULD/WOULD Attach to their Esophagus if Swallowed.
>>>> Remember Your Eye Glasses if you Need them.
The Male Cob – “Sire” will try to protect his Family.
Transport Carriers – One to Put Cob – “Sire” in. > > Place in SHADE.
Have Two if you Want to Put the “Dam” in another Carrier.
Plan for Pen – “Dam”.. Contain Her as Needed.
Once you Catch the “Dam” – Step back for a Bit. Be Still.
She will Call her Cygnets.. they will Scurry to her.. Scoop them UP !
Basically, if you Catch the Pen – their “Dam,” YOU will have the Cygnets..
If you have a Large Hoop Net – Great.
> > HAVE a Large Net or Medium-Large Blanket.
Just walk toward the Pond and as the Cob COMEs OUT to CHASE you AWAY…
Put the Net or Blanket over him. At this Time most Hormonal Cobs are Easy to Catch.
Do NOT Do this Alone unless you are Experienced.
> > HAVE A BUDDY. Extra Hands are VERY Helpful.
Try to Keep EveryOne Calm.. Loud Voices will Scare the Swans.
One Small Carrier to Put Cygnets in to Keep them Safe.
Cygnets can Jump-OUT of a CardBoard Box.. Be Careful.
I know People who have LOST Cygnets when Using a CardBoard Box.
We keep a LandScape Fish Pond Net with us..
It has a Small Hoop and Fine Netting.
If there is a Cygnet that is Out of Arms Reach – This Helps..
You Might Consider Temporary Fencing to Collect the Swan Family.
This will Prevent People Chasing Them off the Pond.
The Swan Family is Able to Swim Quite Fast..
******
If you can GET the Swans into a Fenced Area… Everyone is Safer.
This Movable Fencing lined with Bed Sheets was VERY Clever
and Worked VERY Well.
It Opens and was Walked Around the Dam and her Cygnets.
The Cygnet will do their Best to Stay with their Dam.
It is Important to Give the Swans and Cygnets Time to Imprint.
If you Catch the Female-“Dam,” You will have the Cygnets.
They are Imprinted on her.
If you have her in a Carrier, she will “Call” them
and the Cygnets will RUN to be Close to her.
Scoop them UP.
***********************************************************
If you Plan to Collect DNA Samples Have Submission Kits Ready.
ZipLoc Bags – Clean Paper Towel Squares – Envelopes – Marking Pens.
NOTE: In 2022 AnimalGenetics is ONLY using EMail.
READ the Information about Avian DNA-Sex Testing at Animal Genetics
https://www.animalgenetics.us/Avian/DNA_Sexing/DNA-Sexing-Index.asp
****************************************************
OR Read the Information on the Links Below..
https://swanlovers.net/category/determine-the-sex-of-swans-cygnets-by-dna/
If you can Squeeze a Nice Drop of Blood from the Removed Wing Tip
when you Pinion, Soak the Blood Dot onto a VERY CLEAN Paper Towel Square.
Do your Best NOT to Touch the Area to be Soaked.
Be Sure you can ID the Cygnet and the Blood Dot..
Allow the Blood Dot to Dry.
Place in Paper Envelope – Label carefully, Refrigerate in a DRY Container.
These can be Sent in for their DNA-Sex Test Weeks or Months Later.
You will have these Samples to Submit for the Cygnets that Survive.
Cygnets Raised by their Parents on a Pond or Lake Face MANY Perils.
Review Animal Genetics Website for Instructions.
****************************************************
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*** The Prevailing Pinion Method is to Cut
– Remove One Wing Tip before a Cygnet is 1-10 days old.
– CAREFULLY Following the Instructions that Follow –
You can Safely Pinion up to 21 Days Old. READ Carefully.
NEVER PINION OR CLIP Both Wings.
The Point is to keep the Swan OFF Balance..
Removing the Wing Segment Distal to the Pinion Joint of a Bird/Swan
is Anatomically Similar to Removing a Person’s Hand
but Leaving the Thumb.
These Instructions “SPARE the ALULA”
(Structure like our Thumb). Cut along the Purple Dotted Line.
Detail Instruction Below… Keep Reading..
“Sparing the Alula” – The Removal is done slightly beyond the “Pinion Joint.”
LEAVE Knotted DENTAL TAPE on Wing after Removing the Distal Tip.
The ACTUAL Pinion will Occur UNDER the TIGHT Dental Tape.
This Removes the most Distal Wing Section, which contains the 10 Large Primary Flight Feathers- Preventing the Acceleration and Balance required for Flight. 
This is the Proper Way Wing Feathers are Numbered.
The Primary Flight Feathers Number 2 and 1 May Remain.
Without Primary Flight Feathers 10 – 3 Your Swans should be Rendered Flightless.
Cut 12-15 Inch Lengths of Waxed Dental *Tape*.. Make a Tie-Loop.
If the Fuzzy Down is making it Difficult to See what you are Doing,
Gently PULL some Down to Help you Visualize the Joint Structures.
This does NOT Hurt the Cygnet.. You Need to SEE What you are Doing ! 
Ease the Dental Tape Loop into Place.. Take your Time..
You want to get this RIGHT.. for a Nice Pinioned Wing.
If it helps, PRACTICE ahead of Time on a Straw or Pencil or Twig with Branching…
to get your Fingers familiar with Tying these Fine Knots.
TIE and Pull Tight-Snug. Check Dental Tape is in the Correct Location.
Adjust if Needed… When Ready PULL Tighter.
– THE Waxed Dental Tape should NOT Cut the Wing Tissue.
> > > The Cygnets SHOULD Squeal ! >>> KNOT Tape X3
Wrap the Tape Around the Same Spot and Tie-Knot X3 Again !
NO Messy Strings. If the Tape Gets Tangled.. Start Over.
The “Squeal” the Cygnet makes when you PULL the Tape Tighter
is the ONLY time this will HURT the Cygnet. ONE Quick Squeal !
IF you have the Tape Pulled Properly TIGHT..
It will NOT Hurt when you Cut the Wing Tip. Cygnets Seldom Flinch.
AND there will Little to NO Blood – Bleeding.
Some of the Fuzzy Down will become Tangled in the Dental Tape – GOOD !
This will help the Dental Tape Stay on the Site where you Tie it.
Trim Long Ends… Fairly Close to the Knot.
BE Sure to Trim the Excess Dental Tape – NOT the Knot.
>>>DO NOT Take the Dental Tape OFF after Cutting Wing Tip.
Dust the Cut with *Wonder Dust or White Flour or Corn Starch.
*Wonder Dust is Medicated.. I Prefer this. 
Watch and Check Cygnets Wing for 20-30 Minutes..
Touch where you Cut with a Clean Paper Towel Square – Check for Blood.
ONCE You are SURE there is NO Bleeding….
The Cygnets may go back with their Dam on the Pond.
The Mute Cob Below was Pinioned on his Left Wing.
This will Permanently Ground all but a few of these large Birds.
Pinioning is not 100% Effective.
A few Swans will learn to Fly Short Distances.. They Can Not Sustain Flight.
This may Save them from a Predator or Threatening Situation.
This Female was able to Fly about 35-40 Feet just above the Water.
For keeping large Captive Waterfowl, like Swans as Pets,
Pinioning is the most Accepted Practice.
**********************************************************
IF YOU CAN NOT DETERMINE THE SEX of the Tiny Cygnets..
It is Better to Pinion One Tiny Wing Tip… then to need to do it later..
After 21 Days Old it will be MORE Involved.
To Pinion Older Cygnets-Swans Safely
https://swanlovers.net/category/to-pinion-older-cygnets-swans-safely/
IF you Know How or Know Someone Experienced at
VENT Checking for Sex: Maybe 80% will be Correct.
Then Submitting Feathers around 12-16 Weeks will be 100% Correct.
Try to Pinion the RIGHT WING Tip for Females.
**** ONE WING ONLY ****
*****
Pinion the Left WING Tip for Males.
**** ONE WING ONLY ****
It is VERY Challenging to Color Band 4 to 8 Very Small Cygnets that will be out on your Pond.
Tiny Cygnet Legs GROW Very Fast. The BANDs will NEED to be Changed.
Cygnets may need to be Caught and Bands Changed 3 to 4 Times
within their First 16 Weeks.
The Cygnet below was Hand Raised.. It was Easy to Change her Band.
IF you are sure you will be able to Check the Colored Leg Bands
and Change as Needed consider saving the Wing Tips.
Read Instructions for Saving the Wing Tips Removed during Pinioning:
If you Label the Wing Tips so you can keep track of which is which…
SAVE the WING TIPs that are Snipped-off… LABEL – Store Properly.
Place Each Wing Tip in a Paper Envelops. Place Wax Paper Between Envelops.
DO NOT ALLOW the Envelops to TOUCH Each Other.
Any Blood or Serum that Stains a Paper Envelop will Contaminate another Sample.
Place ALL Envelops in a ZipLoc Bag.. and Freeze. Can be Submitted Up to ONE Year.
Frozen Wing Tip Samples will Need to be Mailed with DRY ICE.
Submitting the Frozen Wing Tips is more Involved.. But it is Acceptable.
In the HOT Summer Months..
These may Spoil-Degrade before Arriving at the Testing Labs.
OverALL it is Easier to Submit Feathers when Cygnets are 12-14 Weeks Old.
ANIMALGENETICS
https://www.animalgenetics.us/Avian/DNA_Sexing/DNA-Sexing-Index.asp
Cygnets GROW Quickly. Leg Band Must be Slightly Loose.
With Cygnets Raised out on the Pond, it is Easier to Wait
and Color Band the Surviving Cygnets
when they are 12-16 Weeks Old.
At 3-4 Months, their Legs are MUCH Bigger and you may only be Banding them One Time.
At the Same Time you can collect Feather Samples from Each Surviving Cygnet
for their DNA-Sex Testing. Average Time is Early August.
Cygnets have True Feathers and you will not be Fussing with Frozen Wing Tips.
Cygnets are Ready for New Homes by Late August – September to November.
These Colored Plastic Bands will last about SIX Months.
Try to have them Slightly Loose.
If you Notice any Band getting TIGHT Change it !!! ASAP
Slip a Thick Piece of Paper UNDER the Snug Band..
to Protect the Skin from Pressure as you Snip the Band..
REPLACE the SAME COLOR Band..
If you are Hand Raising Cygnets you will be able to put Colored Leg Bands on when you Pinion..
Look for Small and Large Colored Cable Ties – Bands.
There are Multi-Colored, Various Size Cable Ties at HardWare Supply Stores.
REMEMBER to Check them frequently and Change as Cygnets GROW Quickly.
Bands that Get TOO TIGHT will Restrict the Bones and Skin Development.
Their Legs MAY have Permanent Damage.
It can be Helpful to Place the Bands on the Same Side as the Pinioned Wing.
Just be Careful not to have TWO of the Same Color on the Same Side..
on Different Cygnets. “Yikes.”
If the “WING TIPs” are Cut off before the Cygnet’s Sex can be determined…
These Wing Tips can be sent for the DNA-Sex Determination Testing.. OPTIONAL.
Be sure you can Identify – Match the Wing Tip with the Cygnet it came from..
Put EACH Wing Tip in a PAPER ENVELOPE.
Place a Sheet of Wax Paper between Envelopes to prevent any Contamination
between Sample Envelopes.
Completely Label Each Envelope.. Your Name – Date – Cygnet ID.
***Return Address Labels come in Handy..
Then Put these INTO another Larger Envelope with the Submission Form..
and Send for Testing ASAP.. Wing Tips May Degrade in Hot Weather.
This Young Cygnet does not have True Feathers for DNA Sample.
If the Wing Tip Samples are Unacceptable for Testing.
The Animal Genetics Lab is Good about Waiting for a Future Sample Submission
– Without an Additional Charge. Send Feathers when they are Ready.
Animal Genetics is the Same Lab in Tallahassee, Florida.
DO NOT PUT THESE WING TIP SAMPLEs IN A PLASTIC ZipLoc Bag..
Animal Genetics for Instructions for Storing the Wing Tips.
Toll-free Within US: (800) 514-9672 – Currently they want us to Use their Website,
https://www.animalgenetics.us/
CONSIDER: It is Likely you will lose some of the Cygnets to Predators.
Sending for the DNA Test before the Cygnets are 12-16 Weeks Old can be a Waste of Money.
Common Swan Cygnet Predators Include:
Snapping Turtle, Hawks, Owls and Great Blue Herons, Mink, Weasels,
Fox, Cats, Dogs, Large Mouth Fish…etc… And Humans.
*****
It May be more Practical to do Feather DNA-Sex Testing when Surviving Cygnets
are 12-16 Weeks Old. They will have True Feathers by then.
*************************************
This is what the Cygnet’s Pinioned Wing will look like by “Sparing the Alula.”
The Royal Mute Cygnets have such Beautiful Feathers their First Year.
Having the Alula Feathers to Cover the “Cut-Butted” End of the Wing
makes a nice Neat Appearance.
The Large Primary Flight Feathers are Absent.
The Tiny Primary Section of Wing was Removed at 5 Days Old.
The Alula was Spared – left to Grow Feathers to make a Nice Cover over the End
of the Secondary Wing-Feather Section.
****************************************************
The Swan Below is the Same Female at Three Years Old.
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****************************************************
A Quick REVIEW OF THIS TOPIC
GATHER YOUR HELPERS AND SUPPLIES.
Discuss YOUR Plans before you START.
FIRST We Catch the Adult Male – the Sire
and put him in a Transport Carrier in a Shady Location.
This way we can work without his Protective Behavior.
We use Temporary Fencing to Gather the Swan Family.
It is TOO Difficult to Chase them on their Pond.
Bait them into the Fencing with Treats.
The Tiny Cygnets will try their Best to stay Close to their Dam, the Adult Female. 
If you Catch her, you will have them.
Move this Group to a Dry Place..
Collect several of the Cygnets into a Container that they are SAFE in,
with a DOOR or LID that Closes.
Check that ALL the Cygnets are Able to Breath -Watch for Crowding.
Larger Cygnets TEND to Pile on Top of the Smaller Cygnets.
Sit with One Cygnet – Old Towel on Your Lap.
Another Person can be Helpful if the Cygnets are WIGGLING..
Gently Extend the Little Wing.
On the Distal End of the Wing there is a Joint ( The Wrist ) The Pinion Joint.
There are two Sections of Wing attached at this Pinion Joint.
One Section is VERY small (the ALULA) About the Size of a Dry Grain of Rice.
The other is a lot Bigger – ( the Carpometacarpus – Phalanges) the Wing Tip,
where the 10 Large Primary Flight Feather will grow.
Before the Cygnets are THREE Weeks Old, there is One Tiny Capillary
and One Nerve Fiber in their Tiny Wing Tip.
The Wing Tip is mainly Soft Cartilage, Skin and Fluffy Down.
THERE are NO FIRM-FORMED Bones Yet ! !
IF there are FIRM BONEs… STOP !!
It is Too Late for You to DO This Safely.
Use 12-18 Inches of Clean Waxed Dental *TAPE* (NOT the THIN Floss)
to Wrap TWICE. Try to get the Tape into the Tiny V between the Alula and Phalanx.
Pull the Wrapped Tape Tight until the Cygnet Squeals..
. . . but, not enough to Cut the Skin.
Tie a VERY Snug Knot at least 3 Times.
Wrap the Dental Tape around the Wing Tip once more and Tie a VERY Snug Knot 3 Times.
Snip the Excess Waxed Tape to leave about 1/3 Inch.
It is GOOD to have some of the Downy Fluff tied into the Knots.
Discard Tape Ends in Trash Bag.
You CUT OFF the Larger Phalanx Wing Tip 1/4 Inch Distal to
(Beyond) the Snug Knotted Dental Tape. Leaving the smaller Alula intact.
There may be a Single Drop of Blood..
Immediately Sprinkled WONDER DUST on Cut Surface.
OR: Clean Dry Corn Starch or White Flour on the Cut..
This gives any Blood Fine Particles to Help Form a Clot..
>>>You will NOT REMOVE THE DENTAL TAPE when Finished !
CLEAN Scissors between each Cygnet.
Rinse with the Boiled Water then
Wipe with IsoPropyl Alcohol on the Clean Paper Towel Squares.
Place Cygnets in Safe Place and WATCH-CHECK for any Bleeding.
Touch Cut Surface with a Dry Paper Towel Square to Check for Blood.
Check the Cut is Dry and a Firm Clot has Formed..
NO Blood Spot for 30-45 Minutes.
There is Additional Information BELOW.
>>> LEAVE the DENTAL TAPE ON – DO NOT REMOVE.
In about 7-10 Days this will Seal – Scar and the Tiny 1/4 Inch of the Wing Remaining
beyond the Tape will fall off. The Pinion will be Complete.
Try to Wait for 30-45 Minutes with NO Blood Spot before returning Cygnets to their Pond.
The Dam and Sire will be VERY Happy to have their Cygnets Back.
Release the Cob-Sire to Pond when you are Finished Doing the Pinioning.
*****
Once ALL Cygnets are Released.. The Swan Family will be VERY Happy. 
******************************************
CONTINUE TO READ THIS ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
IF the Waxed Dental Tape is NOT Tied SNUG ENOUGH…
IF THERE IS BLEEDING. USE PINCH PRESSURE
– HOLD PRESSURE Until Bleeding Stops. (5 – 15 Minutes)
If there is Slow-Oozing Bleeding, you can try to Squeeze the Cut
with your Fingers for a few minutes – Same Pinch Pressure.
*****************
Stay Calm…..
If Bleeding Continues RE-TIE Quickly. OVER the SAME Location.
Tie another Snugger piece of Waxed Dental Tape to Stop Bleeding..
*****************
IF the Bleeding Continues ! !
As a LAST RESORT used a Clotting Agent like “KWIK-Stop”
DO NOT put a Cygnet on the Pond that is Bleeding. OR OOZING ! !
Once you let them go, it is tricky to get them again.
And Chasing them will Cause them to Bleed MORE ! !
There is NO Reason to put the Cygnets in Ice Water..
Ice Water may be helpful if the Cut Bleeds a little.
Very Cold Water will Slow Bleeding..
BUT only put the Wing Cut in, NOT the Cygnet.
Cygnets can not Thermoregulate..
Chilling them Does Nothing but Shock them.
An Ice Cube Held on the Cut may Help Slow or Stop any Bleeding.
While I was Learning.. I Observed a Person who had been Pinioning Cygnets for many Years.
The Tiny Cygnet Below was the Only Hatchling of a Black Australian Pair.
After the Procedure, they were all Placed in a Sheltered Place together.
The Cygnet had Blood Slowly Oozing onto its Down. I took several Images..
went back to the Farm House and Alerted the Person.
I was Told it would be OK by Morning.. NO Worries.
I had so Little Knowledge at that Point..
All I could do was try to Accept the ? Experienced Person’s Comment.
We Left..
The Next Day, I Learned the Tiny Cygnet had Died during the Night.
What I Witnessed was not a Safe Procedure.
I spent Time, Reading and Studying until I felt I had a Good
Understanding of “What and How” to do the Pinioning Safely.
If there is ANY Question the Cut might be OOZING Blood, DO SOMETHING !
There are Several Things Listed to Do.. just a Few Line Above..
Then keep the Cygnet Dry, Warm and Quiet for the Rest of the Day to allow a GOOD Clot to form.
If at all Possible, Keep at Least One Parent with the Cygnet.
IF YOUR POND has SNAPPING TURTLES (Try to Remove)
BEFORE the Cygnets Hatch..
Try to CLEAN any Blood from the Cut Wing…
Snapping Turtles SMELL that tiny bit of Blood and the Cygnets are like Fresh Meat in the Pond.
If possible, keep the Cygnets with their Parents in a Safe Place for One Night.
If you have SNAPPING TURTLES try to Remove them before the Cygnets Hatch.
Snapping Turtles take a Terrible Toll on Young Waterfowl. >>> Any Waterfowl.
SNAPPING TURTLEs are NASTY BEASTs
https://swanlovers.net/category/snapping-turtles-nasty-beasts/
There are People – WildLife Control Services that will Trap and Remove them.
You can Purchase Turtle Traps and Do this Yourself.
It is LEGAL ANY TIME of Year in Pennsylvania to Remove Snapping Turtles,
if they are a Danger to your Family or Pets.. Dogs, Ducks, Geese, Swans.
Just do not SELL them for Meat.
Talking with various Swan Owners over the years, I Suspect that the Folks
who do not Pinion have a better Survival Rate for their Cygnets.
I have NOT Collected Data.. Just Suspect from Conversations..
The difference would be the tiny Blood Dot/Clot on the Wing Tip..
BUT >>> Their Unpinioned Cygnets are more Likely to Fly Away.
Flying Away their Survival will be Poor…
So which is Worse – Snapping Turtles or Flying Away..
Removing the Snappers will keep more Cygnets from Perishing..
*************************************************
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ADDITIONAL INFORMATION – Please Read
*************************************************
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WONDER DUST – Farnam Company, Inc.
Please Read the Ratings and Reviews..
I am familiar with this Product.. It has Medicated Benefits.
I like this way to STOP Bleeding and Treat Minor Scrapes and Cuts on the Skin
of a Swan or Cygnet.
****************************
TRACTOR SUPPLY, Co. Check – Available in Store.
WONDER DUST
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/farnam-wonder-dust-wound-powder-4-oz
Wonder Dust is a Dressing Powder and Blood Coagulant for use on certain types
of Wounds, Cuts and Abrasions.
Please Read Complete Product Information.
******************************
SMARTPAK Farnam Wonder Dust Powder, 4 Oz.
https://www.smartpakequine.com/pt/wonder-dust-223
Information from this WebSite…..
Wonder Dust is a Dressing Powder and Blood Coagulant for use on Wounds, Cuts,
Abrasions, and Capillary Bleeding. Will STOP Bleeding Fast, dry up the Wound,
and help control Granulated Tissue Formation- a must for any Pet First-Aid Kit!
WONDER DUST contains Activated Charcoal to Help Prevent Proud Flesh,
and serves as a Caustic and Drying Agent for Slow-Healing Sores and Infected Lesions.
Wonder Dust may be used with or without a Bandage.
********************************************************
A GROUNDED SWAN is a CAPTIVE PET. Exotic Domestic Poultry.
If Swans were living in the Wild, they would have a Feeding Range of 3-5 Square Miles
to find what their Body’s needs to be Healthy.
Once we Pinion and they are Captive for us to Enjoy (Pets), the Swans depend on us
to help them have the Nutrients that their Healthy Bodies require.
A Pond with Natural Underwater Plants will be Grazed on ALL Day.
There will be Insects and Under Water Critters that will help provide Nature Protein and Calcium.
The Grain-Poultry Feed Mixture adds Nutrients that a Pond may not provide.
With the Pond, Lawn Grass and Poultry Feed Mixture Cygnets and Swans will do nicely.
**********************************************************
If you have Cygnets in the Future… PLEASE Pinion them..
It is so much easier to find Homes and Care for Swans that are Permanently Grounded.
It is the Responsible thing to do.
A Four Month Old Mute Cygnet Ready for a Forever Home.
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This a Work in Progress….. As I Learn I will Add.
Collected and Composed by Linda M.Sweger UpDates June 2023
1 (717) 732-6216 StarBug@comcast.net
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The White Bag Effect
November 23rd, 2015 | Posted by in The White Bag Effect - (Comments Off on The White Bag Effect) As We Visit and Work with Swans,
We have Observed how Visual they are.
They are Creatures of Habit.
We take their Vegetable and Treats to their Ponds
in White Grocery Bags.
“THE WHITE BAG EFFECT”
The Swans will Follow “The White Bags.”
When the Swans see “The WHITE BAGS” from a Distance
They Head Toward Us for their Treats and to Visit with Us.
Click Images to Enlarge
We would get Discard Vegetables from a Local Restaurant Kitchen.
I Sorted the Lettuce Greens into the White Plastic Grocery Store Bags.
“The White Bag Effect” is Fun !
Here they Come !
******************************************
“The White Bags” help us Develop Trust.
Sitting Quietly with “The White Bag” Visible.
The Swans Know there are Yummy Greens in “The White Bags.”
The Swans May NOT Recognize our Clothing.. but Always “The White Bags.”
*********************************************************************
WE NEVER TAKE TWIST TIES or PLASTIC CLOSURES
for BREAD BAGS to the Pond Area.
NO Rubber Bands or Styrofoam..
NO BOTTLE CAPS or SODA TABS.
Anything Foreign that a Swan Swallows will Stay in their Gizzard..
Indigestible.. Obstructive.
BE VERY CAREFUL to Collect any Metal if you are doing any Construction Projects.
WaterFowl will Pick-up and Swallow Screws, Nails, Nuts, Bolts, etc.
SWANs Die from Thing that get Stuck In or Puncture their Throat or Gizzard….
The Term for this is “Hardware Disease.”
Be Careful with Coins, Pennies, Nickels, Dimes, Quarters, etc.
We want the Treats we Bring for the Swans to be Safe.
The Swans see “The White Bags” and Come for their Treats.
When the Swans see our Van, they know we have Greens and Treats.
We had the Privilege of Visiting this Mute Swan Family Once a Week.
They All Got to Know there were Yummy Lettuce Greens in “The White Bags.”
There are Yummy SALAD Greens for All.
This Conditioning HELPED when it was Time to Catch the Cygnets.
The WHOLE Swan Family would Routinely Walk into the Catch Fencing.
We Used “The White Bag” Conditioning all Summer.
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One Young Swan was Sitting on the Other Side of this Large Pond.
She did not Come Over when we Stopped to Visit.
I took a White Bag of Greens Out of our Van.
As soon as she Saw “The White Bag,” she Headed Over to Join her Companion Swan.
Other Vehicles that Stopped – Did Not have “The White Bags.”
We had “Victoria” with us for Several Weeks.
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The Ducks, Geese and Swans will Follow Whoever has “The White Bag.”
Swans Follow “The Lettuce Man.”
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Rob became the “Pied Piper of Lettuce.”
DO NOT Take “The White Bags” to Visit Swans
during their Mating and Nesting Time.
“The White Bags” will cause the Male Swans to CHASE You.
Try to Use the Beige or Grey Bags.
Their Hormonal Aggressive Behavior is Triggered by WHITE.
Once Nesting Season is Over – “The White Bags” are OK Again.
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From Way Across the Lawn – “The White Bags” are Visible.
The Best Part of my Day is Spent with the Swans.
“It is a Good Day when I have Swan Poop on my Shoes.”
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Some Swan Cygnets Would Get VERY Excited for the Lettuce.
I had to be Careful they were NOT Pulling “The White Bags” Apart.
Most Swans and Cygnets LOVE Lettuce.
We did “Lettuce Drops” with any Extra Lettuce we get.
We Enjoy Visiting all the Swans and Cygnets we Live Near.
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This Information is a Work in Progress…..
As I learn more I will add to this information..
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Compiled by (C) L.M.Sweger UpDated June 2021
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Swans Are Vegetarians
November 23rd, 2015 | Posted by in Swans Are Vegetarians - (Comments Off on Swans Are Vegetarians) To Provide a Healthy Diet for your Swans you need to Think Vegetables.
80 % of their Natural Diet is Plant Material.
SWANS ARE VEGETARIANS.
To Enlarge Images – Right Click Image then Open in a New Tab.
You are the BEST Person to Ensure your Swans receive a Healthy Diet.
When you Care for “Captive” Swans they Depend on YOU !!!
Giving Swans Plenty of Variety in their Diet can Help Reduce the Possibility
of Boredom and Increases their Happiness and Overall Quality of Life.
If Mute Swans were Living in the Wild, they would have a Feeding Range
of 3-5 Square Miles to Find what Foods their Bodies Require to be Healthy.
Wild Tundra and Trumpeter Swans
Migrate Hundreds to Thousands of Miles Annually…
They will have a Wide Variety of Plants and Insects to Graze on.
Mute Swans are NOT Migratory Birds. They do NOT Migrate.
All the Summer Plants they Feed on are Unavailable for Months.
Swans Living on Natural Fresh Water Rivers/Creeks/Ponds/Lakes will Typically
Eat Pond Weeds, Duckweed, Stonewort and Wigeon Grass, some Algae
as well as Tadpoles, Worms, Slugs and a WIDE Variety of Insects.
Due to Organic Excess, Some Ponds have Lots of DuckWeed.
DuckWeed is a Great Natural Floating Food..
Swans will Learn where to Find their Favorite Underwater Plants.
A Pond with Natural Underwater Plants will be Grazed on ALL Day.
There will be Insects and Underwater Critters
that will Help provide Natural Protein and Calcium.
Once we Pinion or Clip to Ground a Swan, they are “Captive” for us to Enjoy.
They are Classified in most U.S. States as “Captive Exotic Poultry.” PETs !
These Young Swan Cygnets Depend on us to Help them have the Nutrients
that their Bodies need to be Healthy.
Healthy Swans may Live 20-30+ Years.
The Oldest Known Swan was a Male Mute in England, that Lived to 104 Years.
The Grain-Poultry Feed Mixture Adds Nutrients that a Pond may not Provide.
With the Pond Plants, Lawn Grass and Poultry Feed Mixture Swans will do nicely.
If Grassy Lawns that Surround a Pond are Treated with Weed and Insect Control Products
and the Chemicals Run/Drain into the Pond they WILL Affect the Natural Pond Environment.
There may be VERY Few Under Water Plants and Few Insects.
This is Typical of Golf Courses, Hotel Grounds, College Campuses,
Some Public Park Ponds and many Private Lawns.
Many Pond Owners Love having the Colorful KOI Fish in the Waters.
A Large School of ANY Species of Fish – KOI – Carp – Bass – Trout – Blue Gill…ETC.
Will Consume their Share of the UnderWater Plants.. They Need to EAT Also.
If you use Lawn Care Service or Treat your Lawn..
OR have a Large School of Fish… (-;
Check what is Growing in your Pond.
Sweep Down in the Water 2 – 3 Feet with a Garden Rake or Cultivator.
Are you Snapping Under Water Plants.
Putting Vegetables, Grains, Cut Grasses into or onto your Pond
May cause Obstruction where your Pond Drains.
This Material may Collect where you have a Pump Filter.
Start with Small Amounts, try Different Areas until you know want Works Best
for your Swans and their Water Environment.
If Free Floating Vegetable Cause a Problem at your Spillway..
Put their Vegetables in a Weighted Basket or Handle-less Bucket.
With the Lush Summer Lawn Grasses to Graze on..
Watch for Under Chin-Tongue Impactions.. Short Cut Grass is a Common Culprit..
Under Tongue-Chin Impaction
https://swanlovers.net/category/under-tongue-chin-impaction/
Swans Enjoy the Tender Grass Growth..
If you Only Mow 1/3 of the Grass along the Pond each Week.
Leaving 2 Areas Grow.. Five to Six Feet along the Pond Edges.
Then the Next Week, Mow a different Area.. (Rotating)
There will be Some Longer Grass Blades for the Swans to Graze on.
Plus the Longer Grasses will have more Insects for them to Munch on.
….. (-; (-: (-; (-:
The Swans will Enjoy seeing you Stop by their Water Environment to Visit,
when you have Vegetables for them.
ADDING Vegetables, Especially during Cold Weather Months
will Add to the Swans’ Overall Healthy Diet.
Hand Feeding your Swans is a Nice Activity.. It Socializes the Swans.
With the Young Female Below – We Needed to ReEstablish Trust..
YEAH ! She Loves Lettuce.
Hand Feeding our Rescued Swans and Cygnets Helped to Socialize them.
When you are Feeding your Swans,
Give the First Treat to the Pen, then the Cob and then the Remaining Swans/Cygnets.
I Cut – Shred – Chop – Enough Vegetable Mix for Several Day.
Most Lettuce and Vegetable come from the Western States…
During the Summer Garden Vegetables may come from Outside the USA.
Listen for any Warning or ReCalls for Contaminated Vegetables & Fruit.
SWANs LOVE Vegetables…
WE DO NOT Purchase ORGANIC Vegetable or Fruit..
Vegetables Allowed to Float Out on their Pond.. the Swans can Graze at Will.
Remember Carrots SINK… Put them in Shallow Water.
Our Sweet “Spring” LOVED Radishes.. She would Eat as many as she Could Find.
We had an Arrangement with a Local Country Club.
Their Kitchen would Save their Discard Vegetables for us.
We Stopped in Once or Twice a Week.
This Saved them BIG Bags of Discard Vegetables going to the Landfill.
AND, our Swans EAT Very Well.. (-;
“Thank You” – to the WSCC Kitchen Staff.
If you can make an Arrangement with a Restaurant, Farmers Market Vegetable Vendor,
Grocery Store Salad Bar, etc., you will Save Money and You will have Happy Swans.
Swans ENJOY Assorted Vegetables.
They do not need Vegetables Everyday. But are Happy for them.
DO NOT GIVE THEM ANY MOLDY VEGETABLES.
MOLDs May Contain Toxins that will Make your Swans VERY Sick.
Vegetables help add Fiber to their Intestinal Tract during the Winter.
Most Swans will Instinctively KNOW Lettuce is GOOD to Eat.
When you are Preparing a Salad for your Dinner, Save the Trimming
that you would Normally Toss..
Vegetables are more Beneficial in the Cold Winter Months
when Water Plants and Grasses are Dormant.
Remember Swans DO NOT have Teeth.
Chop or Slice Firm Root Vegetables THIN.
I do not..Buying Organic Vegetables..
These Swans are Swimming Water and Eating Muddy Critters..
The Important thing to do for them is to keep their Liver Health.
A Proper Protein Diet will help to keep their Liver Healthy.. 8-10 Percent..
Apple.. I do not buy Organic Apples.. I Wash them..
Cut into Various Size Pieces.. Float them on the Pond..
If there are Apple Trees that are NOT Sprayed..
I will Gather Apples off the Ground..
Check them for any Mold or Bees or Hornets..
Break the Skin and Toss them into the Pond..
The Seed Generally Fall Away.
Cut into Small Pieces: Carrots, Radishes, Cucumbers and their Peels.
I Like to Chop Enough for Several Day.. Bag..Ready to Go.
The White Cabbage Leaves Sliced into Thin Strips..
The Outside Dark Green Cabbage Leaves are too Tough.
The Yellow-Green Leaves of Celery might be Eaten.
Some Swans Love Kale & Spinach.
Swans may Eat Steamed Leftovers Vegetables like Corn,
Green Beans, Cabbage, Cauliflower & Broccoli.
Cut a Few Seedless Grapes in Half. Strawberry Caps left close to the Water’s Edge..
Some Swans like Watermelon in the Rind Floating out on the Pond.
Sweet Fruits Fallen from Trees may Attract Bees and Hornets…
Discard them so Swans will NOT be Stung !!
Swans LOVE APPLEs……
Cut Unpeeled Apples into Quarters or Slices for Adult Swans..
Chopped for Cygnets. Swans can NOT Bite into a Whole Apple.
If you have Apple Trees (Untreated) Toss a few Fallen Apples onto the Pond.
Break them Open First, the Swans can not Bite a Whole Round Apple.
Swans Love Apples Sent by a Swan Friend in the Netherlands.. Fun Video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLKE4_CNwWY&feature=youtu.be
If there are Fish in your Pond that Eat the Vegetables..
If you Give your Swans Cherries or Peaches.. REMOVE the PITs.
Large Fruit Pits will take a VERY Long Time to Break Down and
Pass Through the Gizzard. They may Irrate the Gizzard Muscles.
Plus Cherry, Peach and Apricot Pits also contain Amygdalin
( A Form of Cyanide ). The Fruit Flesh is Safe to Eat.
In the Water most Apple Seeds will Fall Away.
If the Swans Swallow the Seeds of Apples NO WORRIES.
Apple Seeds have a Hard Protective Shell that Seals
the Amygdalin inside ( a Form of Cyanide ).
The Seeds will pass through their Digestive System
without Releasing Harmful Amounts of this Compound.
Article on Snopes.com about Apples Seeds and Cyanide Compound..
https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/apple-seeds-harmful/
Try Putting the Veggies into a Stone Weighted Basket in Shallow Water.
After 24 Hours, Dump and let the Fish have them..
Watch which Vegetables/Foods Float and which SINK.
Place Vegetable that SINK.. like Thin Slices of Carrot in Shallow Water.
Whole Dry Corn is a Favorite Sprinkled into Shallow Water.
Whole Dried Corn will Soften a bit in the Water..
Swans seem to like it Soaked in the Water for a few Minutes.
The Bright Yellow Flowers and Leaves of Dandelions are a Welcome Treat !
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LETTUCE – SALAD GREENs
It took a Few Tries for him to Taste the Float Lettuce.. He Likes It !
Swans will Generally Eat All Types of Lettuce.
A Floating Head of Iceberg Lettuce is a Fun Lunch.
Not all Types of Lettuce are Equal.
Romaine Lettuce has the MOST Nutritional Value.
Swans Love Romaine Bunch Butts. Toss them out onto the Pond.
Romaine Lettuce Bunches have Long Dark Green Outer Leaves
that are Generally Discarded.
These Large Dark Leaves have the MOST SunShine Nutrients !!
Next to Carrots, Romaine is an Excellent Source of Vitamin A,
a Good Source of Dietary Fiber, Multiple Vitamins, Minerals and Tryptophan.
Romaine Lettuce has Measurable Pro-Vitamin A (Carotenoid-Betacarotene),
Vitamin K, Folate-Folic Acid, Vitamin C,
Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3 (niacin), Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine).
Romaine Lettuce contains the Minerals Manganese, Chromium, Potassium,
Molybdenum, Iron, Calcium and Phosphorous.
The Fiber in Romaine Lettuce helps keep the Swans’ Colon Healthy.
Bottom Line –
Romaine Lettuce Contributes to a Healthy Diet for Swans.
Occasionally, we Mixed some Drained Tuna Juice/Oil onto the Lettuce.
THAT was a BIG Hit.. The Swans Really Enjoy the Fishy Taste..
Iceberg Lettuce – Crispy, Watery Green Leaves in a Tight Ball…
Iceberg Lettuce has little Nutritional Value. But, they Love it.
SO…. Romaine for a Healthy Diet… Iceberg for Fun !
Swans will Eat EVERY Bit of Salad Greens Tossed to them.
Toss a Whole Head of Iceberg onto their Pond, the Swans will Take Turns Biting “The Ball”.
“Lettuce Play” “Let-Us-Play.”
If you like Special Types of Lettuce and what you Purchased
will not be used by your Family, OR you have More then you will Eat.
It is Worth a try, rather then Discarding the Excess, Butter Head,
Boston and Bibb Lettuces Swans will Eat these..
Plus Leaf Lettuces – Green Leaf and Red Leaf.
Leafy Vegetables like Arugula, Spinach and Watercress add Variety.
Swiss Chard Leaves were a Big Hit.. Collard Greens not so much..
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Q: Is it Safe to Eat the Edges of Lettuce Leaves that have turned Brown?
http://www.berkeleywellness.com/healthy-eating/food-safety/article/brown-lettuce
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Q: What Causes Lettuce to Turn Brown?
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/causes-lettuce-turn-brown-77807.html
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Lettuce and Pesticide Residues
Lettuce is One Food that Pesticide Residues is Commonly Found.
Virtually all Drinking Water in the U.S. contains Pesticide Residues.
Pesticides are Present in most Food in Very Small Trace Amounts.
The Negative Impact on our Health is Well Documented.
The Liver’s Ability to Process Toxins, the Body Cells’ Ability to Produce Energy
and the Nerves’ Ability to Send Messages can all be Compromised by Pesticide Exposure.
It is IMPORTANT to Protect your Swans’ Liver..
by Feeding them Safely.
REMEMBER Swans NEED a Lower Protein Diet.. to Protect their Liver.
Then they will be Able to DeTox what they Drink and Ingest.
A Diet High in Protein will cause Fatty Liver Disease
and GREATLY Shorten your Swans’ Lives.
Swans with Fatty Liver Disease – Lipidosis look Full Body and Healthy.
But, they are Developing High Blood Pressure and Kidney Disease..
They may Suddenly, Without Warning Die of a Stroke, Heart or Renal Failure.
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The Images here have Mainly the Vegetables we have Shared with our Swans.
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The Large Crisp Romaine Leaves are Nice for Hand Feeding your Swans.
It is Relaxing to Spend Time with Swans..
Feeding them should be Beneficial for both the Swans and their Care Takers.
Feeding Swans on the Ground is Environmentally Unsound
and Encourages the Swans to Leave their Water.
Food left laying on the Ground may Develop MOLD which can be FATAL to the Swans.
BEST to Keep all Food Item at least along the Water’s Edge.
Placing Any Food in the Water Close to the Water’s Edge Allows the Swans
to see the Foods that Sink (Corn/Carrots)…
and there is Less Chance they will be Surprised by a Snapping Turtle.
BEST to REMOVE Snapping Turtle from Your Ponds.
SNAPPING TURTLEs are NASTY BEASTs
https://swanlovers.net/category/snapping-turtles-nasty-beasts/
Fish and Harmless Turtles will get to know where you Commonly Feed the Swans
and will often Wait Close by to Clean up the Leftovers.
This is helpful, there is Nothing left to Sour or Rot.
WE DO NOT FEED OUR SWANS OUT of their WATER/Pond.
We Find Ways to Place ALL their Food in their Water.
If Swans have to Leave their Water to Eat they become Vulnerable to Predators,
Dogs, Cats, People. Swans in the Water are SAFER. It is also more Natural for them.
Feeding from Containers is a Challenge where the Water Level Changes Quickly.
Be CREATIVE !
Swan Folks in our Network have Shared some of their Feeding Ideas.
Feeding Stations for Swans.
https://swanlovers.net/category/feeding-stations-for-swans/
DO NOT Place Feed Containers on HOT Surfaces.
Remember, in the Summer many Surfaces GET HOT!!
A Swan’s BIG Flat Feet may BURN and BLISTER…NOT GOOD !!
In the Bitter Cold Days of Winter, a Swan’s WET Feet can stick to Icy Surfaces..
just like our Skin would. Swan are Safest in Liquid Water.
Occasionally, I have Frozen Chopped Veggies into a Mold for a Hot Day Treat.
By the End of October there will be Very Little for the Swans to Eat
in the River/Lakes/Ponds/Creeks of Pennsylvania.
Most Underwater Vegetation will become Dormant for the Winter Months.
There is VERY Little in Pennsylvania for Swans to Eat
from Halloween to St. Patrick’s Day.
Five LONG Months…
I have Observed Swans TRYING to Eat the Dark, Decaying Remains
of Underwater Plant Material.
YUCK! Black, Slimy, Decaying Leaves YUCK !
Anything for a few Calories.
Captive Swans need Supplemental Feeding to Remain Healthy.
A Female Swan will Produce a Healthier Clutch of Eggs
if she has “Greens” through the Winter Months.
If you can SAFELY Place Lettuce and Vegetable out on an Icy Ledge..
the Swans ENJOY this as a Salad Bar.
Swans will Need Time to Adjust to New Foods offered,
and may Eat different items in the Winter and the Summer.
Example: Celery Leaves seem to be an Acquired Taste.
Once they are Exposed a Few Time most Swans Enjoy the Tender Yellow-Green Leaves.
Each Swan has Foods they Likes and Dislikes, just like People.
You will get to know what will just be Wasted.
Try Small Amounts of a New Food for a Week or Two and Observe what is Eaten.
Once they Eat their Vegetables….
Your Swans will Enjoy a FEW Treats.
Swans will Eat their Favorite Foods first..
Keep “Treats” from becoming their Primary Nutrition.
GOOD Snacks/Treats are Whole Grain Cereal.
A Cup of Plain Cheerios, Kix or Plain Corn Flakes, Bran Flakes Occasionally,
will be Enjoyed.
Avoid Yeast and Colored Dyes that many Cereals have.
We gave our Swans a few One Inch Squares of Honey Graham Crackers.
These have NO Yeast and they Float.. and can be Frisbeed Out to the Swans.
When Tossing Treats to Swans…
Toss to the Dominate Female first.
Then to the Dominate Male…
They will Take Turns.
Many Swans will Snort “Thank You” for Food and Treats.
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FOOD TO AVOID – DO NOT FEED TO WATERFOWL
NO ONIONS, Garlic, Mushrooms or Avocados..
NO TOMATO or POTATO Plant Materials
These Plants are Members of the Night Shade Family.
These will Upset a Swan’s Stomach..
Avoid Salty Foods. Avoid Sugary Foods.
Little or NO BREAD, Crackers, Chips or Pop Corn..
NO Meat or Dairy..
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This Information is a Work in Progress…..
As I learn more I will add to this information..
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Compiled by (C) L.M.Sweger UpDated NOVEMBER 2021
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